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05/13/2025 03:09PM
Hi Everyone.
We're headed in on Saturday! French to Baptism to Cache, down the Cache River to Kawnipi. Then.....not sure.
Looking at making our way south through Keewatin and Hurlburt down to Keefer, then north through Sark, making our way up to Metacryst and Baird, then west through Cutty Creek to Fred, then up to Sturgeon, Pickerel, and back to French.
A couple of questions...
We've never been in the southern part of the park - any of the run from Kawnipi, to Keefer, Sark, that'll all be new to us. Any recommendations (without heading down to the Falls Chain)?
Once we would get up to Sark, looks like we'd be entering the big burn. Sark looks untouched on the west shore.... but the Cutty Creek area looks...well, I'm wondering how it does look? We went through Cutty several years ago before the burn. Anyone know if we can get through or if there's deadfall obstructing the creek now? I'm assuming the campsites are scorched and we'd do best to paddle through in one day and camp on Fred.
Not fishing, just paddling and looking and listening.
Thanks!
We're headed in on Saturday! French to Baptism to Cache, down the Cache River to Kawnipi. Then.....not sure.
Looking at making our way south through Keewatin and Hurlburt down to Keefer, then north through Sark, making our way up to Metacryst and Baird, then west through Cutty Creek to Fred, then up to Sturgeon, Pickerel, and back to French.
A couple of questions...
We've never been in the southern part of the park - any of the run from Kawnipi, to Keefer, Sark, that'll all be new to us. Any recommendations (without heading down to the Falls Chain)?
Once we would get up to Sark, looks like we'd be entering the big burn. Sark looks untouched on the west shore.... but the Cutty Creek area looks...well, I'm wondering how it does look? We went through Cutty several years ago before the burn. Anyone know if we can get through or if there's deadfall obstructing the creek now? I'm assuming the campsites are scorched and we'd do best to paddle through in one day and camp on Fred.
Not fishing, just paddling and looking and listening.
Thanks!
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05/13/2025 06:38PM
Going in this weekend as well, but from the south.
My only small bit of intel for you is that the route through Hurlburt is little-traveled and I expect you may be the first through. Portage out of Trant & into Kahshahpiwi is 3 carries and two paddles, depending on water levels.
How long do you have?
Sounds like a great trip; enjoy!
My only small bit of intel for you is that the route through Hurlburt is little-traveled and I expect you may be the first through. Portage out of Trant & into Kahshahpiwi is 3 carries and two paddles, depending on water levels.
How long do you have?
Sounds like a great trip; enjoy!
"I don't care what you believe. I care what you can prove." -Philosopher & Mathematician JJJ
05/13/2025 07:24PM
Weather permitting, we've planned for 10 days and 9 nights. Day 1 French to Trousers. Day 2 Trousers to Cache. Day 3 could be a layover day, depends on how beat we are from the portage into Cache. Day 4 will be an early start down the Cache River to Kawnipi.
I haven't been to Kawnipi before and would like to spend at least two nights there -- first night probably not far from where we dump in from the river, then a day of exploring the lake and catching a blue walleye or two.
From there we'll begin our loop back to French starting with Montgomery, Shelley, Keats, Chatterton, Russell, north arm of Sturgeon, then on to Olifaunt, Fern, the B chain and finally Pickerel.
Naturally, I would love to hear what conditions are like on the 3.5km portage into Cache Lake this year, and also on the river from Cache to Kawnipi.
I haven't been to Kawnipi before and would like to spend at least two nights there -- first night probably not far from where we dump in from the river, then a day of exploring the lake and catching a blue walleye or two.
From there we'll begin our loop back to French starting with Montgomery, Shelley, Keats, Chatterton, Russell, north arm of Sturgeon, then on to Olifaunt, Fern, the B chain and finally Pickerel.
Naturally, I would love to hear what conditions are like on the 3.5km portage into Cache Lake this year, and also on the river from Cache to Kawnipi.
05/13/2025 09:41PM
Alma: "I have none of the info you're looking for here, but I am taking that same route to Kawnipi (June 8-17) and would love any recon you could provide regarding portages, etc. after you complete your trip!!!"
I'll plan on sharing what we find! I've found a few Cache River trip reports and comment threads, as I expect you have. We'll hopefully bring back current info. We talked to a ranger at Atikokan yesterday and they don't have any recent reports.
05/13/2025 09:55PM
sns: "Going in this weekend as well, but from the south.
My only small bit of intel for you is that the route through Hurlburt is little-traveled and I expect you may be the first through. Portage out of Trant & into Kahshahpiwi is 3 carries and two paddles, depending on water levels.
How long do you have?
Sounds like a great trip; enjoy!"
Thanks for the info on Hurlburt! Hadn't found much about that area. We love finding those spots in Quetico that seem to be out of the way.
Curious what we'll find beween Trant and Kahshapiwi! Shows as a 204 rod portage on the map. Beavers at work???
We have 10 days so we'll see how it goes. We can always head north from Kawnipi if needed.
05/14/2025 06:44AM
desertcanoe: "Curious what we'll find beween Trant and Kahshapiwi! Shows as a 204 rod portage on the map. Beavers at work???"
Just so - things may have changed. But I was through there in '23 and in '24. Northern section is longer. Then a paddle of a couple hundred meters. Short carry around a large dam, paddle another 300m, portage 100, maybe 200m into Kahshahpiwi. All carries are on the eastern side of the water.
"I don't care what you believe. I care what you can prove." -Philosopher & Mathematician JJJ
05/14/2025 11:52AM
Keep a pair of binoculars handy at all times. It will aid in identifying this species from a distance:
Lynx canadensis aquaticus
Lynx canadensis aquaticus
05/14/2025 03:05PM
desertcanoe: "Alma: "I have none of the info you're looking for here, but I am taking that same route to Kawnipi (June 8-17) and would love any recon you could provide regarding portages, etc. after you complete your trip!!!"
I'll plan on sharing what we find! I've found a few Cache River trip reports and comment threads, as I expect you have. We'll hopefully bring back current info. We talked to a ranger at Atikokan yesterday and they don't have a
ny recent reports."
Of the relative few who attempt to reach Cache, even fewer take the river to Kawnipi. The trip reports and comment threads from years past make for good reading, but getting solid info on the conditions this year, a mere three weeks before I take the same route to Kawnipi ... well that's a gigantic gift from the canoe gods!
Looking foward to hearing how it all went!
05/14/2025 11:16PM
You shouldn’t have any trouble going through Cutty Creek but I felt great sorrow at the extent of the burn.
Picture of my trip will give you an idea
Canoe Trip 2024
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h77FtYGd7QmC2WzJ7
Picture of my trip will give you an idea
Canoe Trip 2024
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h77FtYGd7QmC2WzJ7
John
05/15/2025 08:09AM
As of last summer the portage between Trant and Kahshahpiwi was a single carry. Beaver pond was mostly dry. Portage had a lot of deadfalls, and pond area was mucky w/ boulders and deadfalls.
“Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell.” -Edward Abbey
05/15/2025 08:15AM
gravelroad: "Keep a pair of binoculars handy at all times. It will aid in identifying this species from a distance:
Lynx canadensis aquaticus "
That is an AMAZING photo!
05/15/2025 08:18AM
jdddl8: "You shouldn’t have any trouble going through Cutty Creek but I felt great sorrow at the extent of the burn.
Picture of my trip will give you an idea
Canoe Trip 2024
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h77FtYGd7QmC2WzJ7"
Thanks for the photos. Looks like the section between Eag and Baird is burnt pretty thoroughly.
Some fine fishing!
Is that the Jean campsite on the point as you come in from the north? Great site.
We like some of the same lakes - the Lonely-Walter-Elizabeth up to Mosquito point is my fave going south-north between Sturgeon and Pickerel
Great trip!
05/27/2025 09:48PM
Alma: "I have none of the info you're looking for here, but I am taking that same route to Kawnipi (June 8-17) and would love any recon you could provide regarding portages, etc. after you complete your trip!!!"
Short quick note here, hopefully a trip report later.
Entered at Baptism Creek, night one on Trousers. We were the first humans (LOTS of moose tracks and scat) so we cut through several trees. Should all be passable for you now. :)
Do not rely on the McKenzie map for portages on this section, or on the Cache. If I remember right, McKenzie is missing one portage and one lift-over in this stretch. The Chrismar map is much more accurate on portages.
This was a surprisingly hard day for us - it's less than 10 miles - but I think that was partly because the Baptism current was pretty strong (we were going upstream) and because it was darn cold.
Keep a good eye out for the intersection of Baptism and the French. We don't usually miss such things and we did.
Day 2 we just went from Trousers to Cache Lake, doing the big portage. Once again, wicked cold - snowing most of the time we were portaging. We waited until almost noon hoping the snow would let up but when it didn't, we started out.
The cold made it seem harder than it probably is. But it does feel Long. You cross the Cache River along the portage and the McKenzie map shows the river crossing as being about halfway. We got there and had lunch and were feeling pretty good about ourselves! No way was it halfway in terms of how long the sections before and after took us - the stretch after the river is much longer.
It's the length and the footing that got to us. There's not that much elevation to deal with but the footing is constantly a challenge. You're crossing bog much of the time and you get to choose between balancing on slippery logs or possibly sinking up to your knees in muck (I did that a couple of times). My wife notes that the muck also had an extra muckyness because it was so churned up by moose. :)
Have you done the Badwater portage? Kinda like that except there's a lot more bog, the boggy stretches are more treacherous and it's more than twice as long. When we did the Badwater we were like "well, that was hard, but it's not that hard." When we finished the Trousers to Cache we were Tired.
Day 3 we paddled the Cache River most of the way, but not all of the way, to the end, going about 16 miles. We had a gorgeous sunny day. It warmed up to maybe 50! We LOVED it. Saw moose 3 times, including a cow and a calf, and watched a bull browse the shoreline from in the water. It's absolutely nothing but black spruce-tamarack bog for about the first 15 miles so you've got to enjoy that.
We started about 8 AM and called it a day around....maybe 4:30? We took a leisurely lunch and another nice break. We made it to the 33 rod portage where the river turns north after the Ferguson portage and made camp there.
The "campsite." There's one marked BEFORE the portage on the Padle Planner map. We didn't see the Padle Planner "before" one, though this is where we did start to see some rocks - it wasn't just 100 percent bog at that point. So probably we just missed it, or the rock is darn small (likely that).
So we camped on the portage. I've never done that before and it's kinda a no-no, but there sure as heck wasn't going to be another person through. We had seen no sign of other humans since we'd left Trousers.
So we set up just off to the side of the portage on the south end. The McKenzie map shows the campsite as being on the north end but there were raspberry canes growing in the grassy area, which didn't seem great for the tent. Plus it was right on a moose trail. So we found a spot on the south end that worked just fine. No real view or anything but we were tired and it worked fine for cooking and sleeping.
For that first 16 miles I think you'd be very hard-pressed to find dry ground to set up a tent on anywhere except at the portages . But if you had to, I think you could squeeze a tent in somewhere on the edge of several of them. We saw two ancient unused rock rings that tells us that others used to.
Portages - do NOT bother with the McKenzie map. It leaves out 3 completely. The Chrismar marks the portages correctly. I think Paddle planer does too.
The portages aren't long but none of them are easy - if you're used to, say, the portages on the Dore route to Sturgeon, these are completely different animals. You won't actually lose the trail, but they will be narrow, with poor footing, often quite wet/boggy or else brief steep slopes. We're used to doing quite a bit of portages and thought these would not be much to deal with because they are short - but they take more out of you than their length would make you think.
We again cleared branches on any deadfall so you can either go over or under. And not just on the portages! Unless the trail crew beats you, you'll come to a spot where the river is - was! - entirely obstructed by a fallen black spruce. We cut enough limbs to be able to pass under and through. Enjoy!
SO SO SO many moose tracks and moose shit on those Cache River portages! It's probably more accurate to call them "moose trails" than "portages." We actually made sure our tent cords didn't extend into the moose pathway because we thought it wasn't a crazy idea that we would trip a moose in the night.
Day 4 we took it really easy and just paddled the last 5 miles or so to where the Cache enters Kawnipi, by Cache Falls.
This stretch has more high ground and rock outcroppings - I'm pretty sure a person could find a campsite along one of them if you worked at it.
Maps differ on whether there are 2 or 4 portages on this stretch. Well, there are 3. The last one, the longest one, is the easiest one on the river.
We made it a short day because we really liked the Cache Falls campsite! It's right where one other trip report says it is, maybe 75 meters south of the falls. Contrary to what one report says, there's a sweet takeout on the south end of the site. Just go around the far side of the big downed tree in the water - no need to climb up the rock face.
There's a trail from the campsite up to the falls. A couple of sweet spots to sit by the water. And as others mention, an easy place to get water.
Campsite is surprisingly little used. I guess not much of anybody comes that way?
One other note - reading other trip reports had us concerned about taking water from the Cache. We weren't sure what the problem was supposed to be - sediment? Giardia?
Definitely there's everything that goes through a moose's bowels in that river! You'll want to treat or filter the water. But as long as you don't stir up the bottom, the river is not carrying a large suspended sediment load. We used water from the river - filtered some during the course of the travel day, treated some with Aqua Mira at camp at night.
Water levels - we had NO problem whatsoever. Lots of water, nice current.
Won't promise anything for a few weeks from now, of course.
A couple of indications - there were places we paddled, esp in some wider sections, where our paddles did hit bottom. But that doesn't mean there wasn't a main channel somewhere that we just didn't need to find since the water levels were so high.
Also, about 2/3 of the way down the river, we watched a huge bull moose emerge from the trees, amble across the open bog, step into the river, and SWIM to the other shore. It was deep enough that a large moose could not touch bottom.
We LOVED this segment of our trip while we were doing it. My wife said after the portage from Trousers to Cache that she would never do that portage again. But then after we paddled the river....and she had a couple of days for the worst of the muck to get washed out of her pants...:) that the trip made it totally worth that portage.
Just so you know a little about our perspective....I'm 65, my wife is 66, we're in pretty good shape, hike, backpack, bike, work out at the gym, but we're not buff or anything. We take a 7-9 day canoe trip every spring, going 50-80 miles. Used to do them in the BWCA but we've fallen hard for Quetico and have gone there the last 4 years. The main gear pack that my wife carried weighed around 45 pounds. I carried the canoe and the food pack. I think our canoe weighs in the low 40s - Bell Northwind carbon-kevlar with wood trim. The food pack started out in the low 30s. So I had maybe 75 lbs? We single portaged everything.
Hope this is helpful! I'd be glad to try to fill in anything I missed. And as I said, we'll try to get a trip report up.
Paddle in the water!
05/28/2025 05:11AM
SUPER HELPFUL!!! Thank you so much for this! And, thank you for the trail maintenance too! June 8th can't come soon enough!
I haven't done the badwater portage you asked about, but I like to include at least one long, preferably nasty portage on my trips to ensure at least a couple of days of remote wilderness experience. My daughter feels the same.
For her first trip at age 6, we entered the park at Angleworm and she loved it! Last year was her first year as the sole bow paddler. We entered at Stuart River nine days after the 7-inch rainfall and she handled that like a champion too, including our paddle through the narrowing end of Crooked and up the Basswood River to Basswood on July 3rd, which turned out to be the river's peak water level for the entire year.
One motivation for this year's route is to "right" a grievous wrong I experienced at Cache Lake a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away (aka/ my 20s).
My trip partner on that occasion had sworn up and down that he was a very experienced camper, yadayadayada ... I told him about the route, shoeed him the Beymer book, warned him how rough it would be several times, etc. And he swore he was ready and into it.
This was back in Aluminum canoe times so single portaging wasn't a realistic option on a 2-person trip. Anyhoo, we make the slog to the shores of Cache Lake with our packs. He complained bitterly every step of the way. Now he gets quiet for about 10 minutes while having a smoke. Then he says: I'm done -- as in he is not willing to complete the portage or the trip. He wants to leave.
And so we did. And it was a very uncomfortable car ride back to Minneapolis.
Your news of knee-deep mud this year is a welcome bit of good news to me, as it was up to my mid-thigh at several points on that first visit!
I haven't done the badwater portage you asked about, but I like to include at least one long, preferably nasty portage on my trips to ensure at least a couple of days of remote wilderness experience. My daughter feels the same.
For her first trip at age 6, we entered the park at Angleworm and she loved it! Last year was her first year as the sole bow paddler. We entered at Stuart River nine days after the 7-inch rainfall and she handled that like a champion too, including our paddle through the narrowing end of Crooked and up the Basswood River to Basswood on July 3rd, which turned out to be the river's peak water level for the entire year.
One motivation for this year's route is to "right" a grievous wrong I experienced at Cache Lake a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away (aka/ my 20s).
My trip partner on that occasion had sworn up and down that he was a very experienced camper, yadayadayada ... I told him about the route, shoeed him the Beymer book, warned him how rough it would be several times, etc. And he swore he was ready and into it.
This was back in Aluminum canoe times so single portaging wasn't a realistic option on a 2-person trip. Anyhoo, we make the slog to the shores of Cache Lake with our packs. He complained bitterly every step of the way. Now he gets quiet for about 10 minutes while having a smoke. Then he says: I'm done -- as in he is not willing to complete the portage or the trip. He wants to leave.
And so we did. And it was a very uncomfortable car ride back to Minneapolis.
Your news of knee-deep mud this year is a welcome bit of good news to me, as it was up to my mid-thigh at several points on that first visit!
05/28/2025 08:25AM
That's quite the story! I can't imagine doing that whole portage and then not getting the reward of the river. You have earned this!
You and your daughter are paddlers after our own hearts. We love the Stuart! WOW you were there during that high water! I am in awe of the video I've seen. And your daughter's eager to go back - you've raised her right! :)
And her first trip was Angleworm!! Everything's easier after that.
Bugginess - we had maybe 2 mosquitos and one day with a few gnats. Didn't see a black fly. I won't promise that for you :)
Curiously, we came across two emerging Junebugs in campsites, including one on a morning when it was just barely above freezing.
A couple of other notes I remembered this morning....
The portages on the river tend to be very close to the water obstruction - rapids, falls, whatever. We're definitely flatwater paddlers so coming downstream in high water, that had us a bit intimidated. We knew we'd have to stick the landing to not potentially end up in dangerous water. For a few of them, we landed before the landing, which added some difficulty.
Also....we left gear!! We NEVER do that! I guess that speaks to how hard we were working.
We left a nice foldable saw in a black case. Not sure where - either at the last tree we cut (maybe on the Cache, maybe on the 4 rod liftover at the rapids on the Kawnipi.) or possibly in the campsite at Cache Falls?
We actually changed the 2nd half of our route (we didn't go south from Kawnipi) to stay on more-used portages because we could easily imagine getting stuck in a tangle and not being able to cut/maneuver our way around.
And my wife left her grey women's paddling gloves....somewhere? Probably at the Kawnipi rapids.
If you see them, we'd appreciate you bringing them out so we don't create trash in the backcountry.
Yep, "hard work just to pull your leg out of it...." When I'd get stuck, I had to toss the canoe and pack off my shoulders to have enough strength to get my leg out.
Over the course of the 8 days, my skills at identifying places I wouldn't sink, or even the quality of the mud, got better! Not sure that's much of a job skill but I'm pretty proud.
I can't imagine doing that portage with the old aluminum canoes. I can feel the pain in my shoulders just calling those days to mind - and 670 rods. Oof. You enjoy the heck out of this next trip.
And say hi to the moose for us.
You and your daughter are paddlers after our own hearts. We love the Stuart! WOW you were there during that high water! I am in awe of the video I've seen. And your daughter's eager to go back - you've raised her right! :)
And her first trip was Angleworm!! Everything's easier after that.
Bugginess - we had maybe 2 mosquitos and one day with a few gnats. Didn't see a black fly. I won't promise that for you :)
Curiously, we came across two emerging Junebugs in campsites, including one on a morning when it was just barely above freezing.
A couple of other notes I remembered this morning....
The portages on the river tend to be very close to the water obstruction - rapids, falls, whatever. We're definitely flatwater paddlers so coming downstream in high water, that had us a bit intimidated. We knew we'd have to stick the landing to not potentially end up in dangerous water. For a few of them, we landed before the landing, which added some difficulty.
Also....we left gear!! We NEVER do that! I guess that speaks to how hard we were working.
We left a nice foldable saw in a black case. Not sure where - either at the last tree we cut (maybe on the Cache, maybe on the 4 rod liftover at the rapids on the Kawnipi.) or possibly in the campsite at Cache Falls?
We actually changed the 2nd half of our route (we didn't go south from Kawnipi) to stay on more-used portages because we could easily imagine getting stuck in a tangle and not being able to cut/maneuver our way around.
And my wife left her grey women's paddling gloves....somewhere? Probably at the Kawnipi rapids.
If you see them, we'd appreciate you bringing them out so we don't create trash in the backcountry.
Yep, "hard work just to pull your leg out of it...." When I'd get stuck, I had to toss the canoe and pack off my shoulders to have enough strength to get my leg out.
Over the course of the 8 days, my skills at identifying places I wouldn't sink, or even the quality of the mud, got better! Not sure that's much of a job skill but I'm pretty proud.
I can't imagine doing that portage with the old aluminum canoes. I can feel the pain in my shoulders just calling those days to mind - and 670 rods. Oof. You enjoy the heck out of this next trip.
And say hi to the moose for us.
05/29/2025 05:20AM
Back when I made that first trip to Cache, I completely ignored the river route to Kawnipi. The plan was to fish the remote lakes of Cache-Mackenzie-Kawnipi and then a loop back up to Pickerel and French. I am not so motivated by fishing these days. I still bring a little tackle and some fish fixins to have a dinner or two, but I also bring enough food so I don't have to catch anything.
Over the years, I've also grown to love paddling smaller rivers like the Stuart, and I try to include at least one on every route. Really super excited to take the Cache River route this year!
We will definitely keep our eyes peeled for the saw case and your wife's gloves as we pass through and I'll post something in this thread on the 18th to let you know either way.
Cheers!
Over the years, I've also grown to love paddling smaller rivers like the Stuart, and I try to include at least one on every route. Really super excited to take the Cache River route this year!
We will definitely keep our eyes peeled for the saw case and your wife's gloves as we pass through and I'll post something in this thread on the 18th to let you know either way.
Cheers!
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