I purchased a Mad River Guide, and debating on a solo trip. Trying to find the best options for a portage yoke? Because of the design i would imagine it would have to be a removeable one...

Thanks for any suggestions.

I've got the Spring Creek Outfitters version...very simple, lightweight and comfortable...some folks here make their own which is an option if you've got the time and tools...

you order one of these and then order a set of clamps and a pair of pads and get out your pencil, saw and electric drill....

I got one of these thrown in the deal when I bought my solo Prism. It works with a pedestal seat but I think adjusts for different pedestal widths. It clips on and off ultra fast and is very comfortable. I recommend it if it will work with the seat structure of your canoe.

quote Ho Ho: "I got one of these thrown in the deal when I bought my solo Prism. It works with a pedestal seat but I think adjusts for different pedestal widths. It clips on and off ultra fast and is very comfortable. I recommend it if it will work with the seat structure of your canoe."

I got one like that from Chosen Valley via Spring Creek. I love it!

quote cowdoc: "you order one of these and then order a set of clamps and a pair of pads and get out your pencil, saw and electric drill...."

Thanks! I was working on a design with a tee-hinge and cotter pin because I am too cheap to buy an aftermarket yoke. I just ordered the clamps as it will be much easier and didn't break the bank!

I think it is a Chosen Valley product even if it is labeled as being from Wenonah. (referring to the yoke I linked to above)

Anyone else have an issue with the grip tape sliding around on the clamps? After squeaking over every portage last year I finally figured out most of the squeak was the grip tape slowly sliding off the clamps, didn't even make it through one trip before the tape went missing altogether.

quote Ho Ho: "I think it is a Chosen Valley product even if it is labeled as being from Wenonah. (referring to the yoke I linked to above)"

I have a similar one thru Wenonah, it is a slightly different design but basically the same thing, easy on, easy off, comfortable

they may have changed who they get their solo yoke from over the years

quote barracuda: "Anyone else have an issue with the grip tape sliding around on the clamps? After squeaking over every portage last year I finally figured out most of the squeak was the grip tape slowly sliding off the clamps, didn't even make it through one trip before the tape went missing altogether. "

yes.....mine all came off. Hasn't seemed to affect function.

quote cowdoc: "you order one of these and then order a set of clamps and a pair of pads and get out your pencil, saw and electric drill...."

That's basically what I did, but made my own clamps and used Chosen Valley pads.

quote jhb8426: "

quote cowdoc: "you order one of these and then order a set of clamps and a pair of pads and get out your pencil, saw and electric drill...."

That's basically what I did, but made my own clamps and used Chosen Valley pads.


"

What are the rubber "thingies" made from that grip the gunwale top.

Also I like the clamp made from two pieces of wood.. Did you just glue them together or is there a hidden bolt?

Very nice.

quote cowdoc: "

quote barracuda: "Anyone else have an issue with the grip tape sliding around on the clamps? After squeaking over every portage last year I finally figured out most of the squeak was the grip tape slowly sliding off the clamps, didn't even make it through one trip before the tape went missing altogether. "

yes.....mine all came off. Hasn't seemed to affect function."

Agreed they still function the same, might be a little quieter now as well.

quote yellowcanoe: "
What are the rubber "thingies" made from that grip the gunwale top.

Also I like the clamp made from two pieces of wood.. Did you just glue them together or is there a hidden bolt?

Very nice."

Thanks.

The rubber pieces are some 1/4 in. sheet rubber. They are inlaid about 1/8 in. in the thwart. I added them to avoid the assembly slipping. The clamp pieces are just glued together w/epoxy. Used some random ash scrap I had on hand. I had to re-glue one once. They might be better with a finishing nail pin in each one.

My design. I dare anyone to show me something that is faster to attach.

JD

quote jdevries: "My design. I dare anyone to show me something that is faster to attach.


JD


"

What holds it in place while you flip the canoe over and get the pads onto your shoulders?

Was it a happy coincidence that the balance point matched the pad placement, or did you select the seat mounting location with this in mind?

Pete

quote jdevries: "My design. I dare anyone to show me something that is faster to attach.

JD

Faster thing if the solo canoe is light enough (<40lbs) is to not use a yoke at all, and just rest the lip of the seat on your shoulders/PFD or a backpack. But your design looks way more comfortable.

I use a Hidden River Solo Yoke that I sprayed the clamp portions with plasti-dip. It improved the grip and protects the gunwales better than the bare plastic. The extra height of the yoke makes it easier to see out from under the canoe while portaging lending a bit of extra safety and flexibility when going uphill or downhill.



I like it.

quote NotLight:
Faster thing if the solo canoe is light enough (<40lbs) is to not use a yoke at all, and just rest the lip of the seat on your shoulders/PFD or a backpack."

I do that sometimes when I go to the river. Works great for a short carry.

One quick bungee cord keeps it tight against the seat while you flip it up onto your shoulders. It was definitely trial and error to get it balanced correctly using some scrap wood. Once I had the length right I used oak (can't find ash in Oklahoma) to match the gunnels.

JD

quote Hanz: "I use a Hidden River Solo Yoke that I sprayed the clamp portions with plasti-dip. It improved the grip and protects the gunwales better than the bare plastic. The extra height of the yoke makes it easier to see out from under the canoe while portaging lending a bit of extra safety and flexibility when going uphill or downhill.



I like it. "

Hanz, where and when will you be in the BW so I can admire your boat up close?
Don't see too many "Swift" canoes in this part of the USA. Beautiful.

I made my own solo yoke from the pictured materials. Found some aluminum angle stock at work, hardware store bolts/wing nuts and glued a small patch of neoprene on each piece of metal to grIp the bottom of each gunnel.

quote jdevries: "My design. I dare anyone to show me something that is faster to attach.

JD

"

I tried a cantilever design something similar to this over a year ago. It worked OK, but unless you work out the details (probably trial and error), you might get the angle a little out which produces a tendency for the yoke to slide backward as you walk. This seemed to be more of an issue with a longish portage with ups and downs ... I guess you get more of a "bounce" in that mode.

Another concern I had was the amount of stress you add to the seat with the torquing motion the yoke produces. An signs of wearing where the seat is bolted in?

Lastly, one modification I was working on is the possibility of making an addition "slot" so the yoke could be reversed as a backrest. (I'm always looking for options where one piece of gear can serve more than one function.) I need to get back to tinkering with that project again.

dd

fifteen seconds max, rock solid. not faster but no bungee needed to keep it from falling off.

quote iwegean: "
Hanz, Where and when will you be in the BW so I can admire your boat up close. Don't see too many "Swift" canoes in this part of the USA.
Beautiful"

I wish I knew :-( Probably not this year - maybe next. If anyone is ever down on Long Island, NY and wish to check it out just let me know and I'll try and accommodate you. Thank you for the compliment. I do enjoy the canoe quite a bit and still find myself admiring it's lines.

Thanks again

Bell canoe sold a yoke like this. It fits my Wildfire and old Merlin. The balance point just seems to work. To keep it attached I use a larger home made bungee deelee bob type thing made from a piece of pvc and thin bungee type cord.The yoke snaps in.

Hi, Curious whether you were able to find a way to get the yoke to double as a backrest? Cheers, Steve

I made a similar set up as Devries for my cedar strip but I kept the yoke attached. Quick and easy and always in the same place. The one I just made for my Magic is more traditional but I used cam lock pins like you would use on a quick release bicycle seat post.