I'm planning on using my Pearl, as a plug to build a Kevlar copy of Pearl.
I covered the hull with Window heat shrink film, as a release agent. Only problem was the film didn't shrink after heat was applied.
Tomorrow I look for better heat shrink film !
Jim

I had to find another brand of window film as my release agent between Pearl and the Kevlar copy.

Here is a pic of the Kevlar, cut, and ready for epoxy.
This is 8.9 oz Kevlar.

Jim

Please briefly describe the "plug" concept. Help me wrap my brain around the principles. I appreciate the current canoe is the core, but explain more about the process...without investing too much time as you obviously have a canoe to build.

Hi Jack

The "Plug" basically is a cedar strip canoe built to the stage that the outside is completely glassed, and still on the forms. Thus it becomes a male plug for a one off Kevlar hull. You could use this plug to make several canoes if you wanted.

Some form of Release is needed to prevent the Kevlar canoe from sticking to the Plug when you apply epoxy resin to the Kevlar cloth.
Many people use a wax, or special release agent. I didn't want to deal with the wax, so I simply use window film as the release barrier between the Plug, and the Kevlar canoe.

Commercial boat builders start with a male Plug, to make a Mold in which they produce their boats. That way when they pull a canoe from their mold, it's finished, except trim.

In my case, I will have to sand the outside, and apply foam and more glass to the inside of the Kevlar hull.

When I am done, I will finish the cedar stripper, the Kevlar, and will have two canoes.

I hope that helps !

Jim

I've seen pictures plugs made using foam boards & sheetrock compound, never using an actual boat as your form. You seem to know what you're doing, so carry on & can't wait to see the results!

Cool! A two-fer!

I'm curious how you're handling the tumblehome, and removing the finished boat off the plug. I suppose you can make some slits in the kevlar and patch them up when you're applying the fiberglass to the interior. Is that the plan?

Whatever it is, I'm very anxious to see how it turns out!

I suspect the kevlar will have enough give that it should pop out without much difficulty. They're pretty floppy before all the trim hardware like gunwales & thwarts are installed.

This is an interesting build. I also will be anxious to see the results. I wish that I needed one more canoe. I would like to copy a Royalex hull that I have always loved to paddle, but hated to portage.

quote amhacker22: "Cool! A two-fer!


I'm curious how you're handling the tumblehome, and removing the finished boat off the plug.

I leave the ends open, to allow removal of the Kevlar shell. Once off, I trim the ends and cover the seam with Kevlar felt, or cloth.
For the tumblehome, I used double sided tape, to hold the window film against the hull. The Kevlar will adhere to the film, and follow the tumblehome.

Jim

quote 1JimD: "

quote amhacker22: "Cool! A two-fer!



I'm curious how you're handling the tumblehome, and removing the finished boat off the plug.


I leave the ends open, to allow removal of the Kevlar shell. Once off, I trim the ends and cover the seam with Kevlar felt, or cloth.
For the tumblehome, I used double sided tape, to hold the window film against the hull. The Kevlar will adhere to the film, and follow the tumblehome.


Jim"

Cool!

As others have said, I'm very interested in the process of making a Kevlar canoe with a plug. Document it well and share please. One of the reason I love this site so much!

Jason

I have everything lined up for tomorrow, if all goes well.
The Kevlar cloth is cut and on the my cedar strip canoe.

This will be my second Kevlar. I love my first, and I'm hoping this to be better !
I'll try and post often !

Jim

Are you going to add a layer of fiberglass to the outside for abrasion resistance? Do you vacuum bag for this type of build?

Interesting project, keep the pictures coming! Good luck.

Hi Bryan

I will add a layer of 6 oz E-glass over the entire hull, and a layer of 6 oz S-glass to the football area.

I wish I had vacuum bagging equipment, but I don't. Basically it saves weight as far as resin.
I have the Kevlar wetted out, and everything went fine. The Kevlar stayed tight to the hull in the tumblehome area(a big concern of mine !) A few pin holes in the window film, but I don't believe it will be a problem.
The 8.9 oz Kevlar wet out fine, without a need for a lamination roller !

Heres a few pics.



Notice in the last pic, that you can see the feature strip of the Pearl, underneath.
Jim

Finished adding a layer of 6 oz E-glass to the Kevlar.
One word of WARNING ! The window film I used, as a release between Pearl and the Kevlar, had a few wrinkles. They are barely visible, but they are there.
The reason I choose window film, was to eliminate any possibility of contamination from a traditional wax mold release.
here's a pic of the 6 oz on top of the Kevlar. I need to add a layer of S-glass, then fill the weave.

Jim

Awesome! I'm extremely anxious to see the final result.

quote 1JimD: " Finished adding a layer of 6 oz E-glass to the Kevlar.
One word of WARNING ! The window film I used, as a release between Pearl and the Kevlar, had a few wrinkles. They are barely visible, but they are there.
The reason I choose window film, was to eliminate any possibility of contamination from a traditional wax mold release.
here's a pic of the 6 oz on top of the Kevlar. I need to add a layer of S-glass, then fill the weave.


Jim "

In his book, Building Your Kevlar Canoe, James Moran talks about the problem of using a male mold and getting a really smooth outside finish. I think the only way is to add extra resin and sand more.

It is turning out well, can't wait to see the final product. How much money do you think you will have in it?

Thanks Nick and Bryan.

I'm keeping track of the resin, and will give a cost for the Kevlar hull, when done..
The trim, as I have a bunch of Ash, I can't give an honest quote.

Different from Moran, is I'll have two canoes when I'm done.

As far as finish, it will be the same as finishing a stripper.

Still hashing over in my mind, if I will go with a foam bottom, on the inside, or make a thin cedar strip bottom ?


Jim

where you you get your ash? being a fellow Iowan, and I can't find any lumber yard that has or wants/can order it.

Jason
Before I retired as a janitor, from the High School, I sweet talked the Shop teacher into ordering a bunch of Ash.
The Schools usually get wood Cheap !

That might be an option for you.

Another source, but a bit of a drive is Root River Hardwoods, in Albert Lee Mn. Check them out on line.
I've bought a lot of Ash and Red Oak from them, an they'll let you sort. Very accommodating.

You may be able to locate a local saw mill. Ash should be pretty cheap around here !

Jim

quote opolka: "where you you get your ash? being a fellow Iowan, and I can't find any lumber yard that has or wants/can order it. "

Do you have a good local lumber yard? While ours doesn't stock anything like ash or other furniture grade lumber or sheet goods they can order it from wholesalers they're hooked up with. Usually only takes a few days for them to get it.

Alan

Bryan asked about how much I will have into the Kevlar Pearl.

$228- 6 yds of 8.9 oz x 58" Kevlar from Noah's
$150- for 11 yds of 6 oz x 40" S-glass, from Fiberglass supply
$100 -for 11 yds 6 oz x 60" E-glass, two layers from RAKA
$140- for UV inhibited resin from RAKA
------
$618

I could have gotten by with 50" E-glass, for about $.50 a yard less.
This doesn't include trim, or supplies to build.

I have Ash for trim, and make my own seats.

Jim

PS. Don't tell my Wife ! HA ! She knows !

Root River Hardwood also has a yard in Preston, Mn. Might be a easier drive from Grinnell for opolka. They have a fantastic selection and are very friendly and helpful.

quote 1JimD: "Bryan asked about how much I will have into the Kevlar Pearl.


$228- 6 yds of 8.9 oz x 58" Kevlar from Noah's
$150- for 11 yds of 6 oz x 40" S-glass, from Fiberglass supply
$100 -for 11 yds 6 oz x 60" E-glass, two layers from RAKA
$140- for UV inhibited resin from RAKA
------
$618


I could have gotten by with 50" E-glass, for about $.50 a yard less.
This doesn't include trim, or supplies to build.


I have Ash for trim, and make my own seats.


Jim


PS. Don't tell my Wife ! HA ! She knows !
"

Not too expensive really but they don't give Kevlar away do they? What will you use for foam for ribs or floor panels?

No foam with this one.

I'll strip up a thin insert for the bottom, Cedar, 1/8" thick, and a layer of glass over that.

To stiffen the side walls, my plan is to use extra layers of S-glass, where needed. I have a lot of scrap Kevlar, S-glass, and E-glass.

I plan to pull the Kevlar off the mold about mid week.
Everything looks good. The wrinkles, I experienced in the plastic window fill, are pretty insignificant.

Getting excited to see it off the mold !

Jim

quote 1JimD: "Getting excited to see it off the mold !
Jim "

I think we all are

I couldn't handle the suspense any longer so I trimmed the Kevlar with a angle grinder.
The hull lifted up OK, but I left it on the plug.
I can breath a little easier, knowing the hull is loose on the plug.

I will sand before taking the Kevlar clear off the plug.
Here's a few pics.

Jim

I have about 45 minutes of sanding left, and OFF SHE COMES !
here's a couple pics.
Jim
I tilt the hull to make it easy to sand the tumblehome area.
Tomorrow !!!

Jim

Finished sanding the Kevlar this am, and I lifted it from the back of Pearl.
All in all it turned out fine.
The only complaint I have, is the Window heat shrink film, that I was using as a release, wrinkled. I will do this different next time, and there will be a next time !
I like this technic, just not the shrink film ! It created little ridges of epoxy, that I will have to scrape, before applying a core, or more glass.
Here's a few pics.
I love how I can adjust the Kevlar hull ! I can change the arc in the hull, the shear line width, and the stem shapes to adjust rocker.
The Kevlar, and S-glass are holding the shape of Pearl very well, Once I had it inside, I braced the bottom, and set the shear line widths.



Jim

Slick trick Jim. Now I can completely visualize the process. Thanks for sharing your "new ride" build.
Mac

I finished glassing Pearl. Cut the gunnels on my strongback with my trusty Skilsaw.
Now to build the insert for my Kevlar Pearl. I cut 1/8" strips and set up the forms to make the insert.
With the insert stripped up, I'll pull staples, and clean it up before applying a layer of cloth. This SHOULD make it stiff enough to handle and shape before installing in the Kevlar hull.
Here's pictures so far.



Jim

Todays shots



Right now the plan is to mask around the insert, remove it, coat the Kevlar within the masking, with thickened resin, lay in the insert.
Plastic will go over that and weighted down with sand.
I have the hull supported, so the weight of the sand will be OK.

Jim

Insert, installed.
I spread epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil, and ground fiberglass, between the Kevlar hull and the 1/8" cedar strip insert. Covered it with plastic, and poured in about three 5 gallon buckets of sand to hold things together. I also supported the hull as the sand can easily distort the Kevlar hull.
Here's a few pics.

Jim

Have the insert glassed in the Kevlar.
Covered it with 6 oz S-glass, and the entire inside with scraps of 6 oz E-glass.
Ready for flotation chambers, trim and varnish.
Here a few pics.

Here's a few pics of my Kevlar Pearl's flotation chambers progress.
I'm curving the flotation chambers to add more flotation. It's needed for the Kevlar.

Jim

Flotation chambers in. Just need to install bilge plugs.







Now on to trim

Jim

Gunnels and deck on, and the seat fit.
Right now the seat might seem a little low, but it's easier to raise than lower.


Jim

Looks good. This got me thinking about building a kevlar version of my Freedom 17. I like to paddle it but want something lighter.

I'd highly recommend it !
If you have the forms for your Freedom. Use them to make the cedar insert. My First Kevlar, I used Pink foam 1/4". It worked, except it will easily delaminate.
I made my insert from 1/8" thick cedar. Light enough, and no worries about delamination !
I purchased the Kevlar from Noahs. look around for the S-glass.

Good luck, and holler if you need help !

Jim

How many lbs?

quote SaganagaJoe: "How many lbs?"

Haven't put it on the scale, as I need to install a thwart, and varnish.

But guessing 40#, or less.

Jim

Kevlar Pearl is coated with Spar varnish, and I'm waiting for the Watco to dry on the gunnels

Jim

Still tacky, but complete.
Two more pics

Jim

Beautiful boat sir. I have james moran's book and have been meaning to build a kevlar solo, just havent gotten roundtoit yet. I like the stripped botom.
Well done!

What will you use for a mold release next time?

Thanks Brushbuster

They make a water soluble mold release. Used by all the commercial builders on their female molds. It's inexpensive, and solves the wrinkle problem, also works better for the tumblehome area of the canoe.

Definitely the way I'll go next time.

To me using the 1/8" cedar bottom, instead of very expensive foam, was a no brainer, especially after I've done it.

Thanks again

Jim

The Watco was barely dry enough, but the Kevlar got her Baptism tonite anyway.
Here's a couple of pics


Jim

WOW! Nice looking boat

That's impressive. Have you weighed the two canoes for comparison?

It turned out great, please let us know how it performs. Was it more or less work than building a stripper?

Thanks for your fine updates.

quote ILcdr: "That's impressive. Have you weighed the two canoes for comparison?"

Thanks !
I'm in the market for a good accurate scale, but I'm guessing the Kevlar to be 10-12# lighter.

Jim

Thanks Jack, Dave and Bryan !

It handles very similar to the strip version, but it's a lot easier to load and portage !
I love how I can see the water level through the hull !

As far as building, I would say it was easier to build . Fitting strips on a stripper is more difficult, especially for a beginner.

Jim

Jim, that is a beautiful boat. This has been a fun thread to follow as I'm considering a build as a winter project. It's too bad Iowa makes you put those huge registration numbers on her.

....you could keep it at my house in MN if you want... Just sayin....

Thanks Muddyfeet !

It's been fun building !

Iowa is the only state around that requires numbers on canoes and kayaks. I hate it ! But the DNR CLAIMS they receive money from the Coast Guard for every licensed and numbered craft. If that was so Minnesota is missing out big time.

The only consolation is that here in Iowa, canoes and kayaks 13'and under do not need to be licensed. The popularity of little kayaks has jumped big time!
Guess I need to build smaller canoes.

Thanks again for the interest !

Jim

A pic of the inside of my Kevlar.

Jim

Jim-
I was thinking of using this method to make a boat using another canoe as a male mold.

Do you think it would be possible to strip a bottom together without having forms? Could I strip it together on the bottom of the 'mold boat' using ratchet straps or bungees to clamp each strip in place? Obviously no staples that way!

Thinking on it a minute, and I think it would work. Tape plastic to the mold canoe, making sure it stays in place. I would cut my strips 1/8" thick, and edge glue them Several bungees and masking tape to hold the strips together.

My insert was delicate, but I had no trouble with it coming apart.
I'm building a Carbon fiber canoe this same way, and will soon be making another insert.

Jim

That was my thought too: cedar would look beautiful against a carbon twill.

I imagine that delicate/flexible is fine. Much like a foam: the stability comes from the shear stability between the sandwiching composite layes on either side of the core.

How does the boat do paddling, Jim? Is the hull stiff enough, or does it show any bend/flex? You have the cedar core on the bottom only, but no side ribs. Is it correct that the sides are only 9ozkevlar and 6oz s-glass? There will be some inherent stiffness with the gentle curved surface of the chine, but is it enough?

quote muddyfeet: "How does the boat do paddling, Jim? Is the hull stiff enough, or does it show any bend/flex? You have the cedar core on the bottom only, but no side ribs. Is it correct that the sides are only 9ozkevlar and 6oz s-glass? There will be some inherent stiffness with the gentle curved surface of the chine, but is it enough? "

It paddles great ! The 1/8" cedar core is plenty stiff. On my carbon fiber Nokomis, that I'm building now, I plan the reduce the cedar thickness slightly.

No ribs. One layer of 9 oz Kevlar, two of s-glass, and one layer of e-glass, over the cedar, and up the sides about 3-4", if my memory serves me correctly.
Memory corrected ! E- glassed the entire inside over the cedar.