Although they are heavy and bulky like you said, I don't think you can beat the protection of a Pelican case. I bring a large one on all my canoe trips. It's a total pain in the butt, but I don't ever have to worry about my gear getting wet or damaged. How much gear are you bringing? In my Pelican Case (sorry I can't remember which one it is) I pack a D3s body, D700 body, 70-200 lens, 24-70 lens, 105 macro lens, flash and some peripherals. Like I said it's huge but I think I'd be too worried about my stuff getting damaged. If you are set on the backpack route, what about a Seal Line Pack? They come in all sizes and are waterproof
Seal Line