Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Pt. 2 Quetico Solo 2011 McNiece, Burt, and Ted
by TomT

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 08/31/2011
Entry Point: Quetico
Exit Point: Moose Lake Chain Only (EP F)  
Number of Days: 11
Group Size: 1
Part 3 of 5
Thursday September 8th, 2011

“Just finished the dishes and packing up. Another picture perfect day. 65 degrees, sunny, no clouds, no wind. I sit on the porch and hear only the sounds of loons, birds, and the occasional fish splash.”

“I forgot to mention the eagle I saw yesterday while fishing. I could just make out the white head and tail on a bird circling way high up above. It was doing tight circles over Ted and never flapped its wings. It drifted and circled right above me. How cool to be able to do that.”



I haven’t seen many eagles this trip or people for that matter. Soon I’m off to Robinson Lake. After packing up camp I take a walk around back where the tent pads are. There is a very big boulder about the size of a one car garage. I just had to get a picture of it before I go.



On the unnamed lake after portaging out of Ted.







I come to a small beaver dam that I lift over.



I go to the end of this pond where a larger beaver dam starts my carry through the forest.



I’ll be following a creek to my left that is largely dried up because of the beavers handiwork. The portage starts by having to lift over two large downed trees maybe 4 feet off the ground. You then have to make your own path through various stages of undergrowth and large trees.



I start my carry with the large pack and carrying the pfd and paddle. Banksiana from the BWCA.com message board gave me some tips on how to do this route. He mentions that a little ways in my path will be blocked by thick growth and I should veer to the right towards a ridge. At first I see faint sections and small hints of a trail but it soon disappears into chaos of trees, rocks, downed trees, holes, thick saplings, etc. I reach the ridge and the going is better. I’m searching for openings in the forest constantly asking myself if my canoe will be able to fit through.

My mistake was thinking that the higher ground on the right, away from the creek, would eventually open up. It doesn’t and it gives me fits. I struggle my way through, around and over down to the creek. It’s more open along here but the rocks are bigger and covered in moss. There’s dangerous holes between these rocks too. One slip here and it could be bad news for me. I’m extra cautious and check each step.

I finally get out of the forest and am in a boggy area with thorn bushes about knee high. Good thing I didn’t wear shorts today. “I push through this until I reach the creek and it becomes a nice level path for awhile.”



Soon I come to a very large, old beaver dam and remember in Banksiana’s notes to cross the creek here. I test the top of the dam and walk on top to the other side. “I then rock hop on boulders through thick bushes and trees until finally, through the trees I get a glimpse of the open water on Robinson.”

I make my way to a grassy landing at a small hemmed in pond and drop my gear. I gulp down the rest of the water bottle before heading to get the canoe. My intent on the way back is to scout out a suitable path for the canoe to fit through. I cross the big dam to the other side of the creek where I head up the ridge. This is a mistake and it is very tough going. It never opens up and I expend a lot of unnecessary energy trying to make it work.

I realize my best option is to stay as close to the creek as possible. I break off branches along the way that I think will give the canoe trouble. I’m always watching my footing in here. I realize that my SPOT locator probably won’t work in this forest if something really bad happens to me. I don’t rush and work methodically clearing the way.

It’s a great relief to see my canoe sitting by the beaver dam. I take out the full bottle of water from the small pack and take a good chug. I drag the boat across the top of the two downed trees then pop it up overhead and without hesitating I’m off.

By now I have an idea where to go. I veer right when it gets too thick then immediately head back to the creek. It’s slow going working my way around tight areas and over waist high downfalls. Then it’s a balancing act over the moss rocks. When I get in trouble and can’t go through I drop the canoe and scout a better route.



“I am doing ok but it is exhausting and my shirt is soaking wet with sweat. I press on saying to myself that no one is going to do this for me.”

A little farther and I need another break.



I shoot a little video this time. Watching this play back and I can tell I’m nervous and exhausted.

I am relieved when I pull in to the thorny bushes. Soon I’m at the big beaver dam and decide to leave the canoe there while I cross over with my small pack. I look for a better route along the creek for the canoe but decide against going directly down the creek because of low hanging branches which will snag the canoe. I drop the small pack with the rest of my gear and head back. I bring the canoe the original way over the big boulders and through the thick bushes. Nothing will deny me now and I power on through.

The landing at the first pond after the forest. Robinson Lake in the back.



It’s a few more old beaver dams to cross before open water.





Looking out into Robinson Lake. I made it.



I have to get out and walk the boat in shallow stinky water here but I am so relieved to be done. I paddle out into Robinson and realize just how tired I am from all that work.

I want to see if the 5 star site by Gardner’s Mountain is open. Sure enough it’s empty, just as the whole park seems to be. The large site is on an island and I wearily pull up to dock the boat.



I’m sluggish as I unload and change into dry clothes and shoes as I’m wet up to my waist from crossing those last 3 beaver dams and I kinda stink too.

I set up camp then settle down to cook cream of wild rice soup made by Cache Lakes. It takes a lot of simmering but after 25 minutes it’s ready. It’s very good and I eat some beef jerky and trail mix with it. After this I decide I need to get clean so I go for a swim off the rocks. I rinse my dirty sweaty hair real good then sit on the rocks to dry in the sun.

Now it’s time for a nap in the hammock. It’s still early afternoon and after lounging I putz around camp a bit and try to take a formal shot of myself.



I decide to leave the fishing gear packed away. Tomorrow is another long travel day. Tonight I’ll be content to cook myself something freeze dried for dinner and read my book and lounge on the rocks till dark.