Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Anderson Outfitters didn't open until 6:30. Never the less, we were up at 6:00. Packed away our overnight gear & double checked our travel packs while we waited. At 6:30 we headed over for fresh coffee & to use the microwave to warm our breakfasts. Our tow wasn't scheduled to leave until 7:30, so we were able to enjoy a leisurely breakfast.

Took the short drive up to Crane lake to load up. I then brought the van back to Anderson Outfitters so they could shuttle it to Moose river EP #16 where we planned to exit.

It was a gray gloomy morning but, at least the wind was staying down. Our tow boat driver Darren had checked the radar & said it looked like we were gonna get some rain. As desperately as the area needed it, I hoped it would hold out for awhile. Regardless, we were loaded up & it was time to go.

I'm sure there are those who would say getting a tow is akin to cheating. And, from a certain perspective, I guess I'd have to agree with them. But, we were saving at least 2 days worth of paddling across a motorized route. And, more important to us was the fact we wouldn't have to contend with the large expanses of open water on Crane, Loon & Lac La Croix.

Fortunately, as we set off, Crane lake was mostly placid. Naturally, across the large lakes, we presumed we'd be traveling at full throttle. It came as a shock when we neared the Loon river and Darren told us there are gonna be some sharp turns ahead as he kept the hammer down. It was really a wild, exhilarating ride. If you have the occasion? I strongly recommend it.

Near the old logging camp Darren finally throttled down before the narrows of 56 rapids and we slowly progressed up the river from there to the Loon Falls portage.

We got out at the dock and walked our way up along the portage trail. Even though the skies were gray, there was still some black-eyed susans in bloom to brighten our mood. Darren said that Loon Falls & Beatty were 2 of only 3 railway portages of this type in the world. Definitely a neat, very convenient setup. [paragraph break]

In quick succession we made our way across Loon lake to Beatty portage, then on up Lac La Croix to our small rock island drop off just NW off of campsite #9 at the southern side of the entrance to Snow bay.

After unloading, Darren wished us well and was quickly on his way back. Slowly the drone of the motor faded & the realization that we were, indeed, truly alone settled in. Fortunately no rain yet & the wind was still manageable. We loaded up and pushed off tracing the southern shoreline of Snow bay towards North lake. [paragraph break]

I'd been through here with my brother Clay about a half dozen years earlier. At that time, near the entrance to North lake, we encountered a colossus of a beaver dam. In planning this route I'd heard differing reports that the dam had given way a few years ago. Well, as we came around the large boulder shrouding the entrance to North lake, it was clearly evident that the dam was still intact(or had been reconstructed).

As we paddled through a weedy North lake, I was reminded why my brother & I had chosen the mainland site over the little used island camp just north of it. After briefly reminiscing about that trip it was on to South lake, which is merely an equal sized lob of North lake that requires no portage. There are some steep scenic cliffs jutting out of the lake on the far eastern shore near our first portage to aptly named Steep lake.

Dugout some Clif bars before tackling this portage. It was listed as a manageable 120 rods but, did go up and over a substantial hill. It figured to be the toughest portage of our proposed route. Indeed, the hill was as advertised. Adding to the challenge was the fact that every once in awhile it felt like there were marbles on the trail. Alas! A canoe country oddity. Countless acorns were scattered about. Further investigation revealed that they originated from the several oak trees along the trail.

As expected, I tripled while Vickie stayed back to keep an eye on Aurora as she napped. On my last return trip I ran across some fresh, still steaming, wolf scat. I briskly completed the last 40, or so, rods back down to Steep lake. Upon my arrival Vickie told me she had heard "something" back in the woods a ways & was wondering if it was me trying to scare her. We let Aurora finish her nap, keeping an anxious, ever watchful eye & ear out.

Steep was a nice lake. Of course the shoreline was rocky, and, well...steep. Even paddled past a unique little rock knobbed island complete with some decent sized trees on it. Once we entered the bay leading to the Eugene portage the shoreline leveled off noticeably.

The portage to Eugene was a easy, non technical up and over. Oaks were also present along this shorter trail.

If we weren't so anxious to get to camp, we might of stopped in for a closer look at the northern most site on Eugene. From what we could discern from paddling by, it looked very nice. We pushed on to the northern narrows. I believe even at normal water levels you'd be able to paddle right through. But, during this very dry period, we had to get out and walk the loaded canoe through & around the various logs and rocks.

As we reached the portage to Gun lake the first real rain showers of the day greeted us. I always bring the canoe across on my first carry. A benefit of this strategy was that Aurora could hide out underneath while I finished portaging the rest of our gear across. Which she did quite contentedly.

This portage wasn't all too bad. For the most part it was level, dropping down once it neared Gun lake. There were some nice moose tracks long since baked into the old mud holes along the way. And, a small cluster of feathers apparently indicated a grouse had met it's gruesome demise just off the trail?

As I finished the portage the rain let off. We pressed on towards the narrows site which, from the portage, appeared to be vacant. There are some incredibly scenic & impressive cliffs along the northern shoreline just before the narrows which we stopped to contemplate and appreciate before laying claim to our campsite.

The narrows site was elevated some 20+ feet providing great multi-direction vistas. Though a little on the exposed side; the firegrate had very nice log seating, there were a few decent level tent pads, plenty of nice trees for tarps and hanging, and, as an added bonus, a rock live well down by the rocky but, manageable landing. It would serve us well as our home for the next few days.

Arrived in camp not a moment too soon. As we were still unloading the canoe the wind really kicked into high gear. Getting the tent and, especially the CCS tarp, setup was a real adventure. Still, these were welcome struggles versus being out in the middle of some lake still searching for a camp.

We took turns watching Aurora while the other worked at various chores getting camp setup properly. It was pork chops & cheesy potatoes with onions for supper. The wind finally relented as the sun went down giving way to a good ole fashioned soaking rain. For the most part we were happy the way the day had gone. The really disagreeable weather had held out long enough for us to get to camp. And now the area was getting some rain that it desperately needed. Contentedly we retired to our warm, dry beds for the night.

Crane Lake, Little Vermilion Lake, Loon Lake, Lac La Croix, North Lake, South Lake, Steep Lake, Eugene Lake, Gun Lake