Monday, May 24, 2021

It’s a gray and somewhat gloomy morning but, it is quickly clearing off and warming up. The Black Pearl is loaded, and we officially push off into the Cross River. Aurora is excited to use her new Bending Branches paddle and calm conditions greet her as she takes her first meaningful strokes of forward propulsion. Before developing any rhythm, we spot our first portage just ahead, as the long run of stairs can be contemplated from out on the water as we approach the rocky landing.

I reveal the good/bad news about this portage to Aurora. It is certainly the most difficult portage on the main route between here and Cherokee Lake. We are only planning on getting to Long Island today so, once we get this one behind us the rest of the portages will be easier. (barring a downed tree or something of the like.) Aurora immediately notices a large cray fish at the upstream landing and, is on high alert for frogs or toads as well. I tell her to keep an eye out for pink lady slippers along the trails as well. The wonders of wilderness adventure have already enraptured my curious girl this morning!

As we work our way to Ham Lake we share in a nice conversation; talking about a previous trip several years back when we exited through here. Aurora doesn’t remember too much from that trip so, for her, the awe & wonder factor is essentially at peak. Much as if we are visiting a totally new area.

As promised, the portages are getting progressively easier. We take some extra time to enjoy and contemplate the scenic rapids that are noisily churning just off some of the trails. Once on Cross Bay Lake we paddle right past the elevated northern site we had stayed at on our previous trip. We don’t stop but, it looks a little different than I recall. My memory undoubtedly slowly succumbing to advancing age.

One thing I do vividly remember is the small waterfall near the portage to Snipe Lake. While the wind has picked up some since earlier this morning, it’s still possible to hear the faint crashing and splashing of water to guide us in. The water is very shallow as we approach but, we are still able to pole up to the landing. Andy had warned us that the bugs have been horrible recently and, here is this first spot where we get to experience that reality firsthand. After briefly contemplating the beauty of the scene, Aurora dons her head net and we soon retreat to the confines of the Black Pearl where we are now much less critical of the breezes out on the lake. What initially was looked upon as a suffering, is now considered a blessing!

The northern landing on Rib Lake is yet another spot where the memory of the expansive knobby boulder field is recalled with precise accuracy. I also harken back to the struggles of a trip up a very shallow Horse River last summer. That recent ordeal still hauntingly emblazoned in my mind helps to temper this current experience. We pull off at the lone campsite on the lake to grab a snack and recharge before continuing our journey.

Encounter our first other people on the next portage. I take their last pack across for them; and then tell Aurora it’s always nice to help people when and where you can. You never know when you may need someone to do so for you. The sun being unencumbered like it is, serves to illuminate the old rock cribs at a couple of these landings which sparks conversation about ‘the good old days.

By the time we reach Long Island lake the sky has clouded up yet again. Since I want to camp towards the east end of the lake, I choose to take the Karl Lake route, thus avoiding the 40-rod portage. I briefly get disorientated here and paddle around an island before regaining my bearings. This temporary confusion coupled with the cloudy skies & increasing wind serves to hasten us to find a campsite. As we officially enter Long Island, the first couple of sites are occupied. My target site is the southern peninsula site but, as we trace the northern shoreline, we paddle in front of the island site which is currently available. And, after pulling in, Aurora feels this site is more than acceptable so, we decide to make this home.

The bugs are at Biblical plague levels at the lakeshore, but they are not too bad in the main camp area once we apply some spray. Being the firewood freak that I am, it does my heart well to see Aurora dig in and help in this endeavor. There is a large jack pine that recently toppled across the best canoe landing, so we proceed to clean that up and stock our firewood coffers. In a strange twist, with the persistence of the bugs, I think I’m looking forward more to the smoke the fire will provide versus the warmth & ambiance.

Of course, the hammock is a popular sanctuary once we get camp properly setup. This site is spread out, as there are multiple tent pads dispersed around the site. The log seating around the grate is dilapidated and there isn’t a great view from here either but, we have camp chairs and the bugs are nowhere near as bad here as they are by the lake. As we play hide and seek before supper, Aurora discovers a small cave right at the lakeshore. She bravely crawls in to explore and finds it unoccupied. This site already feels like home!

After getting settled in, I realize it is still quite early. I guess I could’ve paddled on and, at least, checked out the peninsula site. Ah well? This is an above average site that Aurora is already enjoying so, things could be worse. I prep Aurora for tomorrows daytrip and ask if she remembers the beach on Frost lake?

~Ham Lake, Cross Bay Lake, Rib Lake, Lower George Lake, Karl Lake, Long Island Lake