2021 BWCA Wildfires Force a Sylvania Trip
by Ausable
Trip Type:
Paddling Canoe
Entry Date:
08/22/2021
Entry & Exit Point:
Other
Number of Days:
9
Group Size:
2
Discuss Trip:
View Discussion Thread (4 messages)
Day 2 of 9
Monday, August 23, 2021
We were out in good time next morning and down route 2 to get breakfast at the Korner Kitchen in Wakefield, MI. It was moderately busy. As we were talking about the trip before the food arrived, an older woman from a nearby table came over to us and engaged us in conversation after apologizing for eavesdropping. She and her two friends – a women's trio of mixed ages – had just come from the BWCAW and had not known of the closure until they met rangers going in to evacuate campers as they exited at Lake One. We chatted a bit and she gave us some encouragement regarding Sylvania.
Our next stop was at Sylvania Outfitters, a mile or so east past the turnoff for Sylvania. Jim purchased a fishing license and a couple of maps. The young woman behind the counter told us that scented plastic baits were now allowed in Sylvania. Hooray! That had been a point of confusion as I read the fishing regulations posted online. Sylvania Outfitters rents canoes, kayaks, and the usual array of outfitting equipment. They also sell fishing tackle, etc. They have a website. We then drove west to the Sylvania Wilderness entrance station to fill out a permit. The station building was closed because of COVID, but instructions for completing permits were posted on a sign board. Permits for backcountry campers cost nothing and parking fees are likewise waived. We proceeded east to the Crooked Lake boat launch and parking lot. We unloaded the gear at the launch site after which I parked the car in the lot, leaving the campsite reservation pages clearly displayed on the dashboard.
It was a sunny, warm, breezy day. Our reserved campsite, Fox-2, was in the southeastern corner of Crooked Lake, less than 3 miles from the put-in. We found the campsite landing around 12:30, but the previous occupants of both Fox-1 and Fox-2 had not yet left. They were supposed to have left by noon so that we could occupy the site by 1 PM. Those on Fox-2 were out fishing and stopped to talk with us. They were supposed to move from 2 to 1, but they asked us whether we'd be willing to take Fox-1 and let them stay on 2. I thought that was pretty presumptuous of them, but we agreed. The previous occupants of Fox-1 finally shoved off at 1:30.
It was quickly obvious why the Fox-2 people didn't want to move. The trail to Fox-1 was longer and steeper and they had found a better, unofficial landing. The official landing was meant to serve both sites, but it was blocked by deadfall. Nevertheless, we had agreed to the arrangement, so we proceeded to set up camp. The campsite was decent; we got a good bit of cardio exercise climbing the hill over the next 48 hours. There is a nice peninsula next to the landing that we frequented to enjoy the breeze and the view and to filter water. The Sylvania is an old growth forest that has a very open understory and long sight lines. None of the campsites are situated directly on the shores of the lakes, so one has the impression of untrammeled wilderness as one paddles along. Most of the campsites are sited as pairs, so they are closer than I prefer but mostly out of sight of each other. We could see part of the tent at Fox-2 and the campers there were quite loud the second night.
We settled into a general routine in which I mostly cooked, Jim cleaned dishes, I organized and put away the stuff, and Jim found and cut firewood and made the campfire. I'd find the tarp trees and start to get it set-up, and Jim would help me with that process. Although this was the first time Jim and I canoe-camped together, we seemed to be fairly efficient working together. It was enjoyable.
We each brought a lightweight chair, and I am so glad that we did. Having chairs made the choice of tarp locations so much easier: we were not limited to attempting to hang the tarp over a portion of the logs surrounding the fire ring. The chairs were much more comfortable for sitting compared to a log. The tarp was essential on more than one day. It kept us and our equipment dry and meant that we could eat and talk together while it rained. I brought two 50-foot lengths and four 25-foot lengths of paracord for the tarp. We needed to use my lightweight tarp pole for only 2 of the 4 tarp set-ups. We used another 50-foot length of paracord for a clothesline.
The campsites generally have an overhead canopy that allows rather limited star-gazing. However, we did take time at three of our camps to go down to the landings to either watch the sunset or to star-gaze and had a much wider view of the heavens. Jupiter and Saturn were both visible in the southern sky, as were the constellations Aquilla and Cygnus and the Milky Way. The Moon had begun to wane during our trip.
We were out in good time next morning and down route 2 to get breakfast at the Korner Kitchen in Wakefield, MI. It was moderately busy. As we were talking about the trip before the food arrived, an older woman from a nearby table came over to us and engaged us in conversation after apologizing for eavesdropping. She and her two friends – a women's trio of mixed ages – had just come from the BWCAW and had not known of the closure until they met rangers going in to evacuate campers as they exited at Lake One. We chatted a bit and she gave us some encouragement regarding Sylvania.
Our next stop was at Sylvania Outfitters, a mile or so east past the turnoff for Sylvania. Jim purchased a fishing license and a couple of maps. The young woman behind the counter told us that scented plastic baits were now allowed in Sylvania. Hooray! That had been a point of confusion as I read the fishing regulations posted online. Sylvania Outfitters rents canoes, kayaks, and the usual array of outfitting equipment. They also sell fishing tackle, etc. They have a website. We then drove west to the Sylvania Wilderness entrance station to fill out a permit. The station building was closed because of COVID, but instructions for completing permits were posted on a sign board. Permits for backcountry campers cost nothing and parking fees are likewise waived. We proceeded east to the Crooked Lake boat launch and parking lot. We unloaded the gear at the launch site after which I parked the car in the lot, leaving the campsite reservation pages clearly displayed on the dashboard.
It was a sunny, warm, breezy day. Our reserved campsite, Fox-2, was in the southeastern corner of Crooked Lake, less than 3 miles from the put-in. We found the campsite landing around 12:30, but the previous occupants of both Fox-1 and Fox-2 had not yet left. They were supposed to have left by noon so that we could occupy the site by 1 PM. Those on Fox-2 were out fishing and stopped to talk with us. They were supposed to move from 2 to 1, but they asked us whether we'd be willing to take Fox-1 and let them stay on 2. I thought that was pretty presumptuous of them, but we agreed. The previous occupants of Fox-1 finally shoved off at 1:30.
It was quickly obvious why the Fox-2 people didn't want to move. The trail to Fox-1 was longer and steeper and they had found a better, unofficial landing. The official landing was meant to serve both sites, but it was blocked by deadfall. Nevertheless, we had agreed to the arrangement, so we proceeded to set up camp. The campsite was decent; we got a good bit of cardio exercise climbing the hill over the next 48 hours. There is a nice peninsula next to the landing that we frequented to enjoy the breeze and the view and to filter water. The Sylvania is an old growth forest that has a very open understory and long sight lines. None of the campsites are situated directly on the shores of the lakes, so one has the impression of untrammeled wilderness as one paddles along. Most of the campsites are sited as pairs, so they are closer than I prefer but mostly out of sight of each other. We could see part of the tent at Fox-2 and the campers there were quite loud the second night.
We settled into a general routine in which I mostly cooked, Jim cleaned dishes, I organized and put away the stuff, and Jim found and cut firewood and made the campfire. I'd find the tarp trees and start to get it set-up, and Jim would help me with that process. Although this was the first time Jim and I canoe-camped together, we seemed to be fairly efficient working together. It was enjoyable.
We each brought a lightweight chair, and I am so glad that we did. Having chairs made the choice of tarp locations so much easier: we were not limited to attempting to hang the tarp over a portion of the logs surrounding the fire ring. The chairs were much more comfortable for sitting compared to a log. The tarp was essential on more than one day. It kept us and our equipment dry and meant that we could eat and talk together while it rained. I brought two 50-foot lengths and four 25-foot lengths of paracord for the tarp. We needed to use my lightweight tarp pole for only 2 of the 4 tarp set-ups. We used another 50-foot length of paracord for a clothesline.
The campsites generally have an overhead canopy that allows rather limited star-gazing. However, we did take time at three of our camps to go down to the landings to either watch the sunset or to star-gaze and had a much wider view of the heavens. Jupiter and Saturn were both visible in the southern sky, as were the constellations Aquilla and Cygnus and the Milky Way. The Moon had begun to wane during our trip.
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