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MidwestFirecraft
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Minnesotian: " Next you'll have to make a baffle"
Can you share a pic of the baffle you made? The Four Dog stove I have on order is coming with one, but not my Snowtrekker. Wintertrekker states in his videos that he just closes the damper and air intakes to make the gases circulate in the stove, thus acting like a baffle. That hasn't been my experience as I have had to have the damper wide open to boil water on top of the stove.
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awbrown
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The door of the stove will be narrower than the floor of the stove. Most false bottoms are made from two pieces so they can fit through the door. So, if the bottom of the stove is twelve inches wide, make two six inch wide floor pieces so they will fit through the narrower width door.
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Minnesotian
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Nice work. Even before I ever fired up my stove I made a false bottom for it and have been happy I did ever since. Next you'll have to make a baffle, then a metal reflector behind the stove, then figure out a reflector for under the stove...so on and so forth. It's fun.
I just recently got a stove bag and now have enough room that my buddy and I built a small folding table that can fit in the bag. Should be good!
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Jaywalker
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Midwest - when you get your stove, save the box it comes in! I don't have time to post much now, but will explain shortly.
Everyone finds their own way to make the false bottom work. I also do as AWBrown said - two pieced that just sit next to each other, and were sized to be able to next together and sit upside down on the bottom to minimize space. I tend to pack my stove with all stove like coffee pot, etc. Instead of screws, I just nipped the corners off of each piece then bent the edges down. Your's looks good too. I'd say there is probably no reason to attach the two parts once in the stove, and if you do it would be harder to get it out when packing up I suspect.
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MidwestFirecraft
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Jaywalker: "I'd say there is probably no reason to attach the two parts once in the stove, and if you do it would be harder to get it out when packing up I suspect. "
I was concerned about that, and my hope is that I can just turn it side ways and slide it in. Will have to get the stove and see actual dimensions first.
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bobbernumber3
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Loony_canoe: "... if I only had the skills."
Check for on-line screw driver classes.
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MidwestFirecraft
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While waiting for my Kni-co/Snowtrekker medium stove to arrive I thought I would try my hand at building a false bottom for it. I picked up a 16 gauge 12 x 18 inch piece of sheet steel at Mendards and some 12-24 x 3/4 inch machine screws. The screws gave me a height of 5/8 inches from the floor. I have no idea if 12 inch width will fit, but I figured I cut use the belt sander to customize as needed. Feels sturdy, just need to get the stove and give it a go.
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MidwestFirecraft
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Minnesotian: "
Nice work. Did you see my pictures I posted of my baffle on the winter camping site?"
I did. I'm going to use the continuous hinges like you did but with 22 gauge sheet metal. I was thinking of bending the bottom legs so the false bottom would hold it down and prevent it from being lifted up and blocking the exhaust.
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Minnesotian
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Nice work. Did you see my pictures I posted of my baffle on the winter camping site?
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MidwestFirecraft
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Got my stove and the false bottom slides in at an angle and fits like a glove. The 16 gauge floor is very stout. Really happy with it. Now on to the baffle...
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bobbernumber3
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MidwestFirecraft: "Got my stove and the false bottom slides in at an angle and fits like a glove. The 16 gauge floor is very stout. Really happy with it. Now on to the baffle...
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+1 ... way to go!
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MidwestFirecraft
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awbrown: "The door of the stove will be narrower than the floor of the stove. Most false bottoms are made from two pieces so they can fit through the door. So, if the bottom of the stove is twelve inches wide, make two six inch wide floor pieces so they will fit through the narrower width door."
The way I designed is that when I get the stove I can cut it down the center and use the bolts in the center to connect it. If it is close at an angle I can just grind the sides, but either way it was just for fun.
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Loony_canoe
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That’s nice.
I still used sand. But this looks much smarter, if I only had the skills.
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MidwestFirecraft
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bobbernumber3: "+1 ... way to go!"
Thank you!
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MidwestFirecraft
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Loony_canoe: "That’s nice. I still used sand. But this looks much smarter, if I only had the skills."
Thanks! As I get older I take more joy in building parts of my kit. Projects don't always turn out, but I always learn something from the build.
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