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Arlo Pankook
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Yeah, snapweights work great for getting down quick. You don't need a lot of line out so you can really hug shoreline structure well too. Also they work great for pulling spinners with minnows, crawlers or Gulp.
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Bearfoot
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A prefect TGO reply! LOL
:)
C
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Hank
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I use the keeled sinker mainly to avoid line twist. I don't think it gets you down any deeper than other weights.
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PINETREE
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I was just wondering while trolling no weight vs weight of that amount just how much deeper do you think you go ? Their is other factors like trolling speed, floatation of plug etc.
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PINETREE
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How much more depth do you think you add with the keeled sinker ?
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dougroy84
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I still like the idea of using leadcore line as it seems to be less prone to snaging than using weights. Simply attach 10 feet of monoline to the leadcore along with the crankbait. Also, you chose the type of action you want to use - a deep lip for lots of action or a small lip for subtle action.
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gutmon
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I have friends that spend hours drilling holes and adding lead to get just the right buoyancy and balance front to back. I clamp a split shot or two on to my line myself when needed. Usually just use a different lip angle to get at the depth I want. Another tip, the smaller diameter your line, the deeper your bait will dive.
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andegrover
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I have read that people add weight to crankbaits to make them dive deeper. I am assuming that you use split shot, but how far from the lure do you add the weight?
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DTrain
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Works great with original floating rapalas. F11 in gold with 1-2 splitshots about 4' from the lure is one of our common trolling presentations.
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Hank
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I guess it depends on how deep you want to troll. Sometimes I add splitshot, but usually I add a keel sinker - like this:
I use 3/4 to 1 oz mostly.
Other times I use a three-way swivel with an dropper weight. I use this to troll deep for lakers. These can tangle pretty easily though.
I usually put them 2 -3' up the line.
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tony
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I use the same as Hank when after lakers. Attach one end to your line and then add a 2-3 foot leader to the crankbait. I have also seen pictures of a thee way swivel with a drop sinker but have not tried that.
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old_salt
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I may use a 1-2oz. snapweight about 5-6' ahead of the lure if I'm deep trolling lakers or waldos.
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The Great Outdoors
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Take all of your crankbaits, place them into a burlap sack with several large boulders, and seal the entire bag with duct tape.
Toss into the deepest water in the lake. :)
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OldGreyGoose
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quote The Great Outdoors: "Take all of your crankbaits, place them into a burlap sack with several large boulders, and seal the entire bag with duct tape. Toss into the deepest water in the lake. :)" Oh, I get it . . . adding weight to crankbaits (plural). Funny. --ogg
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Hank
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Wow, I never really considered that there were other factors that control the depth of a trolled-lure than just adding weight. Thanks for the insight. You mean that line diameter, amount of line that is let out, speed, the type of lure might play a role in lure depth? You must work for Rapala. Do you really have a question somewhere or are you just being you?
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PINETREE
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Hank-just being me. just curious I usually just throw out my lure and hope it gets to the depth I desire. just thought some of the perfectionists would know. I don't even bring a locator.
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Wables
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If you are really serious about learning how all of the different variables such as lure, line, weight, speed have on your trolling, this is what you need.
http://www.precisionangling.com/index.html
I have several different copies of the "Trollers Bible", and the info is essential for great lakes trolling for suspended walleyes.
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