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Author	Message Text
Pinetree	07/21/2019 08:22PM   Rs130754: "I just bought my first canoe this year and also finally got a new truck after someone hit me and I had to deal directly with their insurance company. I have a roll up cover on my new truck and would like to keep things under roof so to speak. I was thinking of a Goal Post or Long Arm type device in the receiver and then a roof rack. A friend of mine is a welder and said he would make me one out of aluminum for materials cost only. I would only need one rack for the truck roof but Thule and Yakima only seem to sell them in pairs. I did find Rhino Rack which sells single bars but don't know much about them. It seems that these attach via metal clips that fit in the door channel. I really don't want to mar up a new truck but don't want to go the foam block or suction cup route either. Educate me on what setup you have. Do these clips move at all or would a layer or two of painters tape help protect the finish? My goal would be to be able to haul two canoes. Thanks in advance." Years ago bought a single Yakima rack from Piragis.
JATFOMike	07/21/2019 08:46PM   I don’t know if it’s the angle the photo was taken, or the shadows, but the boat is centered on the racks......you can also see the tie downs coming out from under the hood. The canoe is locked in pretty solid. If we are traveling out of the area, I will also put a line on the back. Mike
Rs130754	07/20/2019 09:53AM   I just bought my first canoe this year and also finally got a new truck after someone hit me and I had to deal directly with their insurance company. I have a roll up cover on my new truck and would like to keep things under roof so to speak. I was thinking of a Goal Post or Long Arm type device in the receiver and then a roof rack. A friend of mine is a welder and said he would make me one out of aluminum for materials cost only. I would only need one rack for the truck roof but Thule and Yakima only seem to sell them in pairs. I did find Rhino Rack which sells single bars but don't know much about them. It seems that these attach via metal clips that fit in the door channel. I really don't want to mar up a new truck but don't want to go the foam block or suction cup route either. Educate me on what setup you have. Do these clips move at all or would a layer or two of painters tape help protect the finish? My goal would be to be able to haul two canoes. Thanks in advance.
Rs130754	08/05/2019 06:42PM   CanoeIowa: " I have hauled two canoes from Des Moines to the BCA multiple times using the "T" extension out of the receiver and using a long piece of 2.5" PCV pipe which I slide into a pool noodle that had the large diameter hole, wrapped it all with duct tape, and ran a strap thru it and connecting it in the truck cabin. Only issue we ever had was when it rained the strap would become saturated and would drip on you......" I like the pool noodle idea, going to have to try that this weekend.
dudz3636	07/20/2019 02:44PM   I’m a fan of the Spring Creek racks. I have a suction cup rack over the cab and the hitch mount setup. Have a cheap “anti-rattle” device on the hitch and fender loops (as others suggested). I really like the extending rails on these racks. Extend them before you load and it makes it much easier, especially with a taller vehicle. I’ve never tried it, but I’m pretty sure you could haul 3 canoes with both sides extended. Wouldn’t do it down the highway, but perhaps back to a vehicle at the entry point on a loop trip.
JATFOMike	07/21/2019 07:45AM   You don't mention.....Or if you did, I missed it...what size cab you have? I have an F-150 Supercrew…...I started out with a pair of Thule crossbars on the back of the cab and a Spring Creek receiver mounted goal post...….that set up works great, my only complaint is you can't drop the tailgate....I do have a tri-fold tonneau cover which I can fold back, but I am short and it makes it difficult to load/unload when the canoes are already on the racks......I then picked up a second pair of Thule towers and now run two racks across my cab instead of the single rack at the back of the cab and no longer use the goal post. I also made some nylon tie down straps which I placed under my hood to anchor the bow of my boat. I normally carry 1 or 2 solo boats, 16' or shorter and have had no issue with this set up. I can access the tailgate with no issues now. I will try and post some pics later..... Mike
CanoeIowa	07/30/2019 02:39PM   I have hauled two canoes from Des Moines to the BCA multiple times using the "T" extension out of the receiver and using a long piece of 2.5" PCV pipe which I slide into a pool noodle that had the large diameter hole, wrapped it all with duct tape, and ran a strap thru it and connecting it in the truck cabin. Only issue we ever had was when it rained the strap would become saturated and would drip on you......
Northwoodsman	07/21/2019 02:50PM   I'm cruising down I-35 through Iowa as I type this (my son is driving). I have a pair of Thule bars on top and a Thule Goalpost on the hitch receiver. I can't even tell the canoe is up there. The feet are rubber and the clamps are coated so it won't scratch your truck. I have a 2018 F150 Supercrew. The 17' Wenonah overhangs my windshield by less than a foot. It overhangs the Goalpost by about a foot. I have the 58" Aerobars on now but I also have the longer ones at home so I can carry two canoes side by side.
cowdoc	07/21/2019 07:28PM   MReid: "cowdoc: "Plan is to keep rear rack on topper and put rack on cab (cab also has slight hump to it.....2019 Silverado) I'd like to stick to Yakima......which rack do I get? Plowing through their website is frustrating. Must be removeable." They've changed a bit since I got mine, but, assuming you have no channels at all on your cab, it looks like you can get a pair of Baseline Towers Towers and add the BaseClip 110 (B10-4). I had to go to the installation pdf to figure it out (page 18!). The towers sit on the cab on a padded foot, and the clips fit into the space between the door and the cab. That's how mine work, and it's very secure. To double check, you can contact Yakima. I have an older style Yakima tower on my cab, and the old standard gutter mount tower on my shell, attached with gutter brackets (the Yakimas are hard to find, but the Thules also work--I have Yakimas on my shell, and Thules on my camper). " Thank you......now I know where to start. I'll give Rutabaga a call and maybe zip up there on a day off. I have the old gutter mounts for the topper and they have worked well for years but it's time to tweek the system a little. Thanks again.
Walleye6	07/25/2019 01:30PM   Rs130754: "I just bought my first canoe this year and also finally got a new truck after someone hit me and I had to deal directly with their insurance company. I have a roll up cover on my new truck and would like to keep things under roof so to speak. I was thinking of a Goal Post or Long Arm type device in the receiver and then a roof rack. A friend of mine is a welder and said he would make me one out of aluminum for materials cost only. I would only need one rack for the truck roof but Thule and Yakima only seem to sell them in pairs. I did find Rhino Rack which sells single bars but don't know much about them. It seems that these attach via metal clips that fit in the door channel. I really don't want to mar up a new truck but don't want to go the foam block or suction cup route either. Educate me on what setup you have. Do these clips move at all or would a layer or two of painters tape help protect the finish? My goal would be to be able to haul two canoes. Thanks in advance." Sent you a PM
pamonster	07/20/2019 11:31AM   I was in the same situation, i just skipped the roof rack and used the receiver goal post thing. Canoe has the pads in the front on the top of the truck. I have those Thule loops that bolt into a fender bolt coming out from under the hood, straps in the middle to the truck bed between the cab and bed. There was a a bunch of attachment points between there, I just added a C- clamp and ran the straps through. Also strapped to the Thule goal post. Solid as a rock
Rs130754	07/20/2019 12:09PM   pamonster: "I was in the same situation, i just skipped the roof rack and used the receiver goal post thing. Canoe has the pads in the front on the top of the truck. I have those Thule loops that bolt into a fender bolt coming out from under the hood, straps in the middle to the truck bed between the cab and bed. There was a a bunch of attachment points between there, I just added a C- clamp and ran the straps through. Also strapped to the Thule goal post. Solid as a rock " I saw your setup in another post. I would mostly be hauling only one boat but I do have a friend that just ordered a SR Quetico 17 or 18.5, so there would be times we would haul both. My thinking with a cross bar is that it would prevent some lateral shifting if we had to haul them more towards the rear or at the edges of the crossbar to accommodate both boats. I guess I could just buy a complete set and if I only need one post the other here if someone else needed a similar setup. Walllee- I like the suction cup idea but am not to sure with the aluminum body, seems to have more flex on the roof than my previous steel version. I guess I wouldn't be using a ratchet strap so a snug tug might not cause harm. Thanks for all the help!
Blatz	07/25/2019 01:51PM   JATFOMike: " I don’t know if it’s the angle the photo was taken, or the shadows, but the boat is centered on the racks......you can also see the tie downs coming out from under the hood. The canoe is locked in pretty solid. If we are traveling out of the area, I will also put a line on the back. Mike " This way works just fine. However you're better off moving the canoe further back with less canoe sticking out from the front rack. Also if your canoe is not symmetrical put the stern of the canoe in the front
wingnut	07/20/2019 10:59AM   Congratulations on your own canoe and the truck. When I bought my Thule cab rack they sold them as a half pack so I only had to buy one set but the fit kit with the metal clips came as a set of four. The clips don't mar the truck at all. They clamp on the rubber seal around the door and don't touch the paint at all. The towers that the bar slides through have a rubber base as well.
walllee	07/20/2019 11:34AM   The suction cup setup works great.
Wally13	07/20/2019 01:42PM   To haul canoes on my 2017 Ford 150 … I use a Thule Goal Post that attaches to rear hitch and a Thule Roof Rack. My Thule Roof Rack is an older square tubular model that can hold 2 canoes. Paired with a Goal Post … it really is a nice setup. I like to haul my camping and fishing equipment in my covered bed and the Goal Post allows me to do just that. The picture is Old Salts Quetico 17 on top of my Ford 150. I would recommend purchasing a RoadMaster Quiet Hitch RM-061 for 2 inch Trailer Hitches. Its an anti-rattle device to further limit movement of the Goal Post when inserted into your 2 inch Hitch receiver. It really keeps your Goal Post from moving. To limit Goal Post movement even more …. I also use a couple of Ratchet (1 inch x 8 ft.) tie downs with snap hooks that attach from each side of the Goal Post to your truck bumper. It may be a little overkill to use both the Quiet Hitch and Ratchet Tie Downs for the Goal Post but I can run 70 mph on the highway and the setup is very snug with zero rattles and movement. Roadmaster Quiet Hitch RM-061 Snap-Loc Ratchet Tie Down 1 inch x 8 feet
MReid	07/20/2019 02:52PM   I bought a single pair of Yakima cab racks some time ago for my Tacoma. No worries about scratching the paint (but don't you have a truck??). Bars can be frequently found on Craigslist--apart from length, the round ones are universal fit. The receiver hitch stabilizer is a great suggestion--I use them for my bike rack, and they work well--here's an example hitch tightener
cowdoc	07/21/2019 11:15AM   Been following this thread.....have some questions. Just got new truck and topper. I had one before with Yak racks on topper. It worked great for years. I always cheated the canoes a touch forward on the racks to decrease hangover out rear.....tied fronts down to hood straps. Always felt it was rock solid. New truck is crew cab with shorter box/topper. I don't like the decreased span between bars and don't like the increased hangover out rear and don't feel comfortable cheating canoes more forward yet. Plan is to keep rear rack on topper and put rack on cab (cab also has slight hump to it.....2019 Silverado) I'd like to stick to Yakima......which rack do I get? Plowing through their website is frustrating. Must be removeable.
MReid	07/21/2019 06:31PM   cowdoc: "Plan is to keep rear rack on topper and put rack on cab (cab also has slight hump to it.....2019 Silverado) I'd like to stick to Yakima......which rack do I get? Plowing through their website is frustrating. Must be removeable." They've changed a bit since I got mine, but, assuming you have no channels at all on your cab, it looks like you can get a pair of Baseline Towers Towers and add the BaseClip 110 (B10-4). I had to go to the installation pdf to figure it out (page 18!). The towers sit on the cab on a padded foot, and the clips fit into the space between the door and the cab. That's how mine work, and it's very secure. To double check, you can contact Yakima. I have an older style Yakima tower on my cab, and the old standard gutter mount tower on my shell, attached with gutter brackets (the Yakimas are hard to find, but the Thules also work--I have Yakimas on my shell, and Thules on my camper).