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Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Gear Forum :: Closed cell foam for bottom of canoe
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| tomo |
I'm in the market for more or less permanent glue-able or stick-able foam for kneeling in the canoe, as well as suggestions for a do-it-yourself version of the kneeling pad sold by the piragis catalog. Any suggestions for either? Thanks Piragis Pad |
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| OCDave |
I bought 1/2" Gym Rubber, 1/2 sheet for $32 from The Foam Factory and cut the sheet so it tucks up the sides to the gunnels on my Northwind Solo. The gunnels and seat drops keep the pad in place even when flipped upside down for portaging. It slides in and out under the seat so, I kneel then slide the whole pad so my feet slip under the seat. After my legs have fallen asleep, I can easily slide back out and return to seated paddling. I paddle most days the water is liquid. I have been using the same pad since mid-2017. It shows little wear, does not absorb water and does not smell funky. The Foam Factory: Gym Rubber Good Luck. Edit: The 1/2 sheet I bought was the 54"x 48" |
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| DanCooke |
Spray glue 3M99® can get the tricot top layer to adhere to the foam, be very careful not to use too much or it will bleed through, too little it will bubble away from the foam where there is not enough glue. Glueing to the bottom of the canoe depends on the material of the hull and the foam you select. some contact cements can soften roylex and potentially eat some foams. Getting the foam successfully removed from a canoe is often a tough task and often requires you to glue in a slightly larger pad to cover the unintended consequences of removing the old pad. I had a set glued into a Carbon Fiber Wildfire for over two decades. I used a close cell pad and spray glued on 500 denier cordura that I hot cut the edges on so it would not unravel-. The Fabric glue to foam let loose after about 5 years. (3m77®) . The foam pads were still in it when I sold it. They had survived many many trips to the BWCA and a trip down the Yellowstone. I would consider putting Velcro® on the hull and Velcro® on the pad you referenced as an alternative to sources material you vet. The 5/8 thick foam is wonderful for kneelers. |
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| Tomcat |
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| jhb8426 |
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| EddyTurn |
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| tomo |
Thanks for the replies. To be clear, I am looking for a relatively low weight/reasonably comfortable solution to permanently attach to my canoe for tripping, as well as a removable, high comfort solution for paddling around when weight and portaging aren't a consideration. Looks as though the gym mat solution above might work for the removable side of the equation. Curious if the 1/4 thickness would be sufficient? |
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| OCDave |
tomo: "Hi all, The Foam Factory site does claim that layers can be glued together. You could try 1/4" and if you find it is not comfortable, then double it up. Personally, I am pretty satisfied with the performance of the 1/2" and would hesitate to go thinner. Part of the appeal of this thickness is that with the edges resting on the gunnels ( in an upside down position for portaging) the pad stays bowed against the bottom of the canoe for portaging. Routinely, I just grab the Solo and flip the edge over my right should for short hauls and again, the pad stays in place. I kept the 48" dimension and cut the width to a bit over 37". My bathroom scale weighs me 3 lbs heavier with the pad in my arms vs without. If I felt the weight was too much, I could certainly shorten the 48" dimension as it is just over 26" from the top of my knee to the end of my toes when kneeling. I paddle one of the South Minneapolis Lakes on most days if you are in the area and would like to try it. |
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| kona |
I also have a t-pad similar to the one you linked. It’s more comfortable and I often bring it along on day trips without portaging especially if I can paddle barefoot. It works fine atop the permanently mounted pads linked above. I can send pics if that would help. |
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| tomo |
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| chessie |
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