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Sota1996
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Pool noodles are always a cheap option
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Model94
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Be sure to stop after a short distance and re-tighten everything, a little driving and jiggling will loosen things up a bit.
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bretthexum
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With my stock roof rack on my Expedition, the cheap foam blocks were a huge help. I could tighten the canoe down without the blocks as far as it would go and it would still slip on the rack. Just adding the foam blocks helped with friction and now it doesn't budge.
Hood loops are awesome too and a cam strap looped in front is easier than screwing with knots.
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Jackfish
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Bump... Naturboy?
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Savage Voyageur
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All good advice here. I will add get some hood straps that bolt under the hood. Pull over after a few miles and check your tie downs. Just be sure you have front and back also straps.
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cowdoc
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Jackfish: "naturboy12: "Here is a pic. Straps are loose because we were unloading, but it shows what I do.
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Naturboy, is that a Lamoille? Looks to be a twin to my canoe, even the same color."
Me thinks Explorer
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brotherbear
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I will be transporting my canoe on a dedicated roof rack system from Thule on our main vehicle. I won't be able to use this main vehicle when we first go pick up our new canoe this summer. I plan on buying a foam block kit for our other vehicle when we first go pick up the canoe and was looking for any tips or recommendations for cam straps, hooks, and rope types to use along with the foam blocks.
Thanks!
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naturboy12
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I use the foam blocks on my Nissan Altima to get the canoe to the boundary waters from almost 8 hours away. I can run ratchet straps with hooks to the front of my car because I have places on the frame to hook them to. But I do not have a place on the back or underside of my car for the rear ratchet strap to connect to. You may want to check that out. I actually have to run mine through the trunk latch get it as tight as possible, tie it off (no ratchet strap or cam), then close the trunk for it to work at all. I have no roof rack on top of my car so I have to run the straps over the top through my door/window frames, which of course Is not ideal, but it works.
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naturboy12
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Here is a pic. Straps are loose because we were unloading, but it shows what I do.
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Blatz
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Just do what you would normally do. The over the top cam straps are the most important. The front and rear straps shouldn't be super tight. The foam blocks actually work pretty well in a pinch. Don't use ratchet straps btw. You can damage the canoe if you're not careful
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blackdawg9
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you are correct on the foam block kits. i have a few tips.
1 the belly band needs to be doubled over the canoe, if i was driving really far. i would get a 2nd belly band. i still want it doubled back over again, fore and aft of the wide spots of the hull.
2 go get 2 cloth diapers and figure out where the strap is going to touch , your hood and tape them into position, wrapping it around the strap. [electricians tape]. to save your paint job.
3 when you cinchdown your foreward and rear tension straps. you fold up the remainder of the strap and tape it tight, against the line. wind will work those straps loose in the buckles, if they are whipping around.
i drove 15 hours both ways , like this. this works. if you only have the belly band 1 time over the hull. [sometimes you have to] its just a missle waiting to launch.
it costs you nothing to pull over and double check the tension occasionally . they all shift a tad, after a 30 minutes or a hour.
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Jackfish
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naturboy12: "Here is a pic. Straps are loose because we were unloading, but it shows what I do.
"
Naturboy, is that a Lamoille? Looks to be a twin to my canoe, even the same color.
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naturboy12
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cowdoc: "Jackfish: "naturboy12: "Here is a pic. Straps are loose because we were unloading, but it shows what I do.
"
Naturboy, is that a Lamoille? Looks to be a twin to my canoe, even the same color."
Me thinks Explorer"
Sorry, been up in northern WI camping. Its an Explorer (Kevlar), built sometime in the 1990's.
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schweady
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I never thought foam blocks were "good enough." Then, we were provided these from VNO last fall for our trip to the EP. I'm not sure if the 7-inch "X-Tall" NON-SKID model is their standard issue, but it really was the cats and seemed to help alleviate my roof clearance/paint scratching worries.
 
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dschult2
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Two cam straps on top, I prefer the bumper buckle ones from NRS. You can probably get away with the 12 footers but I would suggest the 15 footers. I find that you can't tighten the canoe down as tight to the roof using foam as you would using a roof rack system due to the fact the straps run more out to the side of the canoe and not straight down. Because of this I like to use two ropes on the front of the canoe with a truckers hitch each. I find this really helps with stiff crosswinds or when you pass a semi going the other way. You can use cams as well if your not confident in your knot skills. One rope on the back with a truckers hitch is sufficient. As far as ropes and hooks go with a roof rack system paracord is sufficient but with foam blocks I like to use polyprophylene rope with a heavy duty carabiner or s hook attached to the end with a bowline or buntline hitch. As a final touch, don't forget to use a small piece of microfiber cloth between your hood and the rope so you don't wear the paint.
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AmarilloJim
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All I use are the foam blocks and I travel 1350miles one way. 2 straps through the doors, 2 lines off the bow under the hood and 1 line off the back. I drive 70-75mph and have gone through 30-40 mph cross winds with this set up.
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tombot
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I use the foam blocks regularly for transporting my canoes. I think getting hood loops really makes the system a bit sturdier, and it is a tiny investment. Then you can run cam straps to every connection and not need to worry about your knots.
As much as possible, the straps running over the canoe should line up with the foam blocks, so they are putting pressure straight down on them.
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