Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Gear Forum :: Tarp Set Up Without Trees
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Saberboys |
Maybe Dan can chime in here? I cannot seem to figure out the knot he uses from the tarp to pole, to guy line, or the reasoning it is done in this fashion? I have no issues having a tarp over the fire grate. This is the only reason that I bring a tarp, so we can enjoy a fire during the rain. We keep the flames low, and only the leading edge of the tarp is over the fire. |
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Ohiopikeman |
We set it up low so maybe not appropriate for an open fire, but we did cook under here for several days/nights with the MSR stove. |
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Lawnchair107 |
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MidwestFirecraft |
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butthead |
This set and the next are not meant for a camp but to move around and try different sets so the guy-lines are attached to the poles too low to allow height changing. Far as the 15 foot size, the set can be made smaller with a large tarp (fold and tuck), but not bigger than the tarp size. butthead |
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ockycamper |
Northwoodsman: "I wouldn't recommend placing any tarp over the fire grate if you plan on having a fire in it. The sparks and cinders from the fire will burn tiny holes in it. With a quality tarp like that I keep mine well back from the fire grate." We found a solution to this several years ago when it sleeted and snowed on us. We stacked rocks on the fire grate, making it into an oven. Then we hung a tarp over the fire grate, and four reflecting blankets for walls. It was 30 to 35 degrees outside, but inside our shelter we were in t shirts. Best of all, it took very little wood to keep the "oven" going, and we were able to keep the wood dry all week. |
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Northwoodsman |
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andym |
Tarp Clinic by Dan Cooke |
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unshavenman |
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Saberboys |
I could probably rig something and make it work, but I would like some input on how to make it more rock solid. I envision the wind lifting a corner and the pole slipping out and dropping the tarp into the fire. Is this too large of a tarp to be bulletproof in high winds without trees to anchor it down? The campsite that I am envisioning faces south, and wide open, with no wind break. I'm a visual learner.. so if you have photos of your set up, that would be helpful! Thanks! |
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Minnesotian |
Rigging up a tarp without trees is entirely possible, but it does require a bit of obsessive adjusting. First, lay the tarp out flat (or as horizontally flat as possible given the terrain) and tie down the four corners. The tarp doesn’t need to be taut, but something close. Make sure your four corners have a lot of adjustability, this is where a taut-line hitch or an adjustable tensioning knot you are comfortable with comes in handy. Next, with the tarp tied down in the four corners and somewhat taut, take two poles. These should be the height you would normally tie the ridgeline at, so 6’ to 8’. If they are adjustable, all the better, but that is more gear to bring and I bet you could find an 8’ pole in the wild. Looking at the taut horizontal tarp, pull up an edge where you want the pole to live, and start lifting the tarp at that spot with the pole. The goal is the keep enough tautness in the tarp that it holds the pole in place once the pole is vertical and free standing. To achieve this goal, you may have to go back to the tarp corners and let out more line until the tautness is just right to hold the pole in place when vertical. Once you have one pole up, go to the other side, probably 180 degrees from the first pole, and do the same thing. Once both poles are up, you now start adding a whole bunch of additional support lines. Add a support line on each pole that pull against each other. Think of this support line as your ridgeline that goes over the pole and then gets staked off to the ground. Pull this “ridgeline” taut and against each other over each pole. After you have these 6 guylines (4 corners and 2 over the poles) your tarp should be set and it is up to you to adjust from there to your comfortability for sustained weather. Finally, I have set my tarp up numerous times over a firegrate with no damage. There are a couple of guidelines I follow to minimize the threat. One, the firegrate is at the edge of the tarp, I don’t center the firegrate under the tarp. This allows for a draft to potentially (depending on the wind) to flow under the tarp and away from the firegrate, taking sparks with it. Second, the tarp is at least 5’ above the firegrate, including if a sudden gust comes up and the tarp dips down. Third, and I learned this from Dan Cooke, I don’t burn any paper products in the fire. The embers from paper products stay airborne a lot longer and are a huge reason for pinholes. Finally, my fires aren’t huge, nothing much higher than the surrounding rocks. I found a photo that may help. It shows the “ridgeline” ropes that pull against each other and are critical. Also, the photo shows the poles in the center of the tarp, but the great thing about the CCS tarp is that you could put those poles closer to one edge instead of the middle, thus making the height above the firegrate better. Good luck. |
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timatkn |
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