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LadyTas
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I have a 2017 4Runner with OEM roof rack, including crossbars.
I see most people install a Yakima/Thule rack on top of the OEM rack. Is this necessary? Can I safely carry a 16’ on the OEM rack?
I will do highway driving, probably 60mph tops, and 1-2 hour trip length.
I do have straps for across the canoe, and hood loops/ropes for the bow and stern.
Thanks
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Ausable
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You should be fine with your OEM equipment and the straps. You might check your owners manual for the max load on the rack and crossbars.
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boonie
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I drive 2500 miles round trip carrying one on my Subaru rack. just make sure the rack is in good shape.
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MacCamper
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Shouldn’t be a problem. My go-to canoe rack has been bare 2x4 studs attached to OEM roof racks on my Subaru Impreza and Foresters. 8 foot long stud for two canoes and five foot long for solo boat. I typically only snug up the bow with para cord. Pull straps over the top, no ratchet straps allowed! Thousands of over the road miles with no issues.
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deerfoot
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I have had 4 Subaru Foresters and the factory crossbars/roof rails for the first 3 were rated at max 150# as I recall. Per the owner’s manual for the current 2021 Forester it is 176#. So it would handle a canoe. But I have always used Yakima round bars with gunwale brackets which attach to the roof rails to carry canoes and many other items. I can easily and securely attach many items to the bars. On newer Foresters the OEM crossbars are an optional item so I no longer have to pay for them only to remove and store them in the garage until I get rid of the vehicle. I consider them to be useless for my purposes.
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Blatz
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A gunwale bracket like the Yakima Keelover would be wise.
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Tomcat
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I have used Yakima racks with gunnel brackets but the OEM style cross bars on my 2011 CRV with cross straps and bow and stern lines work well also. The round trip to Ely is about 1,800 miles. The only issue I have with the OEM style cross bars is clearance height, the sling pads attached to my carry yoke will touch the roof without adding gunnel spacers.
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justpaddlin
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Blatz: "A gunwale bracket like the Yakima Keelover would be wise."
Strongly agree with this. The Keelovers are a perfect fit on my wife's CRV factory rack and if I used the stock crossbars on my 4Runner that's what I would use. I think there may be some lower cost options...you want gunnel brackets or load stops for aero bars. With something like the Keelovers (plus straps and good bow and stern lines) your system will be ROCK SOLID. You also want to make sure your crossbars are as far apart as possible so you get the stability of the full length (40 inch) front to rear span. The vehicle comes with the front bar set back to the quietest position.
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TrailZen
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Tomcat: "I have used Yakima racks with gunnel brackets but the OEM style cross bars on my 2011 CRV with cross straps and bow and stern lines work well also. The round trip to Ely is about 1,800 miles. The only issue I have with the OEM style cross bars is clearance height, the sling pads attached to my carry yoke will touch the roof without adding gunnel spacers."
Same issue here with our 2011 Suby Outback--not enough space between factory crossbars & rooftop to accommodate portage yoke pads. Mine are quickly removable, so they ride in the car during our 1250-mile commute to Ely.
TZ
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justpaddlin
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Tomcat: "I have used Yakima racks with gunnel brackets but the OEM style cross bars on my 2011 CRV with cross straps and bow and stern lines work well also. The round trip to Ely is about 1,800 miles. The only issue I have with the OEM style cross bars is clearance height, the sling pads attached to my carry yoke will touch the roof without adding gunnel spacers."
I agree that load stops aren't mandatory. I like them for peace of mind...just keeping the visible bow from wiggling. On my last trip I faced quartering headwinds with gusts over 50 mph and even with a "belt and suspenders" system it was a little stressful and I had to snug things up occasionally.
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