Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Gear Forum :: Carbon Paddle: Repairable or Trash?
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Pinetree |
TrailZen: "LaVirginienne, I'm very sorry to hear that two of your three Wenonah paddles delaminated, but am a bit confused about your mode of failure. You say that you had the blades repaired, so this was not the same shaft problem I experienced?Botom line-which is more dependable-wood or carbon? |
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LaVirginienne |
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TrailZen |
Meanwhile, my first response from Wenonah was "Very interesting. You could send us a picture..." I've sent the same photo I included with my original post here, but have not heard back from them yet. TZ |
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TrailZen |
Pinetree: "Botom line-which is more dependable-wood or carbon?" I've broken several wooden paddles. I've never broken a carbon or fiberglass paddle, and once owned a fiberglass Norse whitewater guide paddle that I think one could have felled trees or dug trenches with (and it weighed 3 pounds!). The Wenonah paddle I'm dealing with exhibited its crack on day 6 of a 10-day trip, yet I continued using it (rather than my wood spare) for the remainder of the trip. My dependability vote is for carbon, and I'll buy another carbon paddle soon. TZ |
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TrailZen |
plmn: "I'd take them up on that offer. If you decide on something else you can sell the Wenonah for more than what you paid for it. Buying the Wenonah for 50% off, then reselling it is tempting, but I won't do that--just feels wrong to me. I refined my paddle search down to Werner and Bending Branches. I spoke with customer service and with technical folks for both companies. Both companies said their carbon shafts would tolerate the occasional gunwale pry. Both companies offer paddles in the same weight range (16-18 oz) as the Wenonah Straight Black Light, a factor that has made our recent trips more enjoyable. Both companies' paddle shafts clearly show good radial and axial fiber integrity. We have a second Wenonah (my wife/bow paddler does not do gunwale pries) that we'll keep as a spare paddle. Last night I ordered two Bending Branches Black Pearls. Now I need to work on my J-stroke so that my gunwale pries are truly "occasional"! keth0601, search "Hertz stress" online; this is the mechanism that led to the axial crack of my paddle shaft. Anything you to to minimize Hertz stress on your paddle shaft (padding gunwale or shaft to distribute stress over a greater surface area; developing a better pry option) will extend the life of your Wenonah paddle. Good luck with it. TZ |
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plmn |
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Banksiana |
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Naught |
Ill also add that since getting a couple ZREs my wife and I have not once used our GRB or BBs for anything but spare paddles. |
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TrailZen |
The finishing operation done on the Wenonah shaft appears to compromise radial carbon fibers, leaving the axial fibers exposed and poorly supported, allowing axial cracking. So, opinions needed. Can the paddle be salvaged without drastically increasing its weight (cyanoacrylate adhesive?), or is this trash? TZ |
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Ausable |
Before you do anything, however, I suggest that you call or write Wenonah to see whether they might have suggestions. |
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andym |
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Tomcat |
plmn: "In the bike world this is pretty common and the same principles apply. Repair kits are typically $20-40. Honestly I don't know if I would trust that kind of a repair on a bike but on a paddle it should be fine. Interesting video. Thanks plmn. |
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plmn |
Carbon Frame Repair I agree with contacting Wenonah first, it may not be worth the hassle to do it yourself. |
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TrailZen |
Ausable, drilling at the ends of a crack is excellent advice, but I'm afraid that the visible exterior crack may not reveal the true ends of interior cracking along the axial fiber bundle. plmn, thanks so much for the carbon frame repair video link--I own some carbon bike parts, but had no idea that kits for such repairs were available and relatively simple. It appears the repair would be very lightweight as well, and its 16 oz weight was one of the reasons I bought this paddle. Banksiana, I may look into the replacement shaft, and agree that adding any weight to my paddle is a negative. TZ |
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justpaddlin |
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Banksiana |
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keth0601 |
Banksiana: "A j-stroke with a center seat solo is futile- you have such limited leverage that it bleeds tremendous forward momentum to rudder yourself straight." That's why you heel the canoe. |
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plmn |
Canoe Race Of course a sprint is different than an all day paddle, but I still find their technique very impressive. I saw a video where one Olympian said it took her an entire year of practice to control the canoe effectively while paddling from just one side. I don't want to get too far off track either, I just found it interesting. |
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Banksiana |
On the other hand I consider j-stroke a bad technique (its really just an incremental rudder in which you bleed your forward progress to correct your lateral drift), so each to his or her own. |
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justpaddlin |
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EddyTurn |
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TrailZen |
TZ |
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sns |
I own two (a ZRE and a GRB) and they are both awesome. The ZRE is 8.5 ounces, and it looks basically new though I must have close to 1000 miles in the Canadian Shield with it. |
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keth0601 |
I'm more of a traditional-style paddler and pry off of the gunnel on a regular basis so this has me wondering if I made a poor choice. I may give the shaft of my paddle a leather wrap or something to pad it against the gunnel now. |
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plmn |
TrailZen: "A quick update: Wenonah feels my occasional gunwale pry is the cause of the axial crack in my paddle, and does not acknowledge any weakness caused by the shaft finishing operation (which appears to compromise radial fiber integrity). They have offered a very nice 50% discount on a replacement paddle ordered from them. I've narrowed my search for a replacement to two other manufacturers whose paddle shafts clearly show uncompromised radial fibers in the layup. I'd take them up on that offer. If you decide on something else you can sell the Wenonah for more than what you paid for it. I wouldn't pry off the gunwale with any carbon paddle. I have my doubts that one that weighs less would fare any better over time, regardless of layup. But you could ask the manufacturers what they think. Something sturdier like a Bending Branches Black Pearl may hold up better to that kind of abuse than a ZRE, but you will pay a penalty in weight. |
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keth0601 |
Banksiana: "Back in the day I would pry off the gunwale on occasion, sometimes often. Trained myself to stop. It's bad technique and not difficult to unlearn. I stopped when it noticeably damaged my first good paddle (a Blackburn in cedar). I've broken three high quality wooden paddles. Yes to break a carbon fiber. I own two ZRE 8oz bents, I've used my first one (the other I bought because I felt guilty when tripping with my brother) almost exclusively for about ten years. Also have two Wenonah bents I bought after a season of outfitting use. When I solo I carry a Wenonah as a spare." I'm curious why it would be considered bad technique if you paddle a traditional Canadian stroke or j stroke? It saves you a great deal of fatigue not having to resist the inward push from the end of the stroke with the muscles in your shoulder and it's common practice ( just watch Bill Mason's videos he even calls it out as making your steering more effective). Not to mention prying itself is a technique and forget doing jams as well without being able to pry. IMO a paddle should be able to handle prying it is a well known and used technique. |
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keth0601 |
Banksiana: "Bad technique because it unnecessarily damages the paddle. Pry when you pry but don't pry on every stroke. I would say that the j-stroke is only inefficient if you're in a boat that tracks well enough for sit and switch style paddling. Try paddling a tall and wide tandem (especially empty) or a solo with lots of rocker by yourself with nothing but regular strokes and see how much fun you have. :) The j-stroke developed in a time when narrow, minimal-rocker canoes (especially solos) weren't common and if you're paddling a traditional canoe hull (especially solo) it's still efficient and relevant. |
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Banksiana |
keth0601: " I don't paddle wide tandems or non-center seated solos. Not interested in barge crafts. Even on whitewater trips I prefer a quick asymmetrical hull. A j-stroke with a center seat solo is futile- you have such limited leverage that it bleeds tremendous forward momentum to rudder yourself straight. |
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keth0601 |
I feel like we've taken this thread off topic so I'll abstain from further discussion unless another thread is warranted. |
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LaVirginienne |
TrailZen: "LaVirginienne, I'm very sorry to hear that two of your three Wenonah paddles delaminated, but am a bit confused about your mode of failure. You say that you had the blades repaired, so this was not the same shaft problem I experienced? Sorry about the late reply! The delams were all on the blade resulting from chips, I believe, on the edges. I have had no problems at all with the shafts. And yes they have been repaired perfectly (the blades). |
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LaVirginienne |
TrailZen: "Pinetree: "Botom line-which is more dependable-wood or carbon?" I've broken several wooden paddles. I've never broken a carbon or fiberglass paddle, and once owned a fiberglass Norse whitewater guide paddle that I think one could have felled trees or dug trenches with (and it weighed 3 pounds!). The Wenonah paddle I'm dealing with exhibited its crack on day 6 of a 10-day trip, yet I continued using it (rather than my wood spare) for the remainder of the trip. My dependability vote is for carbon, and I'll buy another carbon paddle soon. TZ" I really do love my carbon paddles and I will keep buying them. I watched a wooden paddle break mid stroke this summer and the puzzled look on the Scout’s face (I forget if he was paddling into or out of the landing where I was standing) was priceless. |