Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Group Forum: Boat Builders and Repair :: a little guidance
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1JimD |
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tumblehome |
As shown in your picture, you will want to overlap the new glass onto the old glass. After the glass is wet out and cured, you can feather sand the edge of the seam being careful not to remove too much epoxy on the parts of the canoe you are not repairing. Please wear a mask for dust. Your canoe needs some thwarts and a yoke for strength and shape. I built a cedar chest in 9th grade back in the early 80's. It's still in my bedroom all these years later. The skills we build in high school can help us later. Tom |
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kchalupsky |
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kchalupsky |
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kchalupsky |
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1JimD |
It's easy to feather the edges later with a good scraper ( Carbide). |
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kchalupsky |
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tumblehome |
This in not uncommon when a stripper gets water trapped under the glass. I have a stripper with a couple deep scratches down to the wood and it darkened up quite a bit before I sealed it up. For me, I would leave the discoloration all one so long as no future water gets in there. It would be a chore to grind off the glass there and re-glass it again IMO. Not sure if you need to stain the wood. It darkens when you glass the canoe. However, with the stain you have on now, it might not darken further. Tom |
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sedges |
I agree that you need to use two overlapped pieces of that tape, at least on the 3 strip wide part. You can use one piece where there was only the stem band. As you get toward the ends that tape is not going to conform to the shape without puckering. You can cut off the selvedge, the bound edge of the tape, to release the weave. If you then pull the edges in opposite directions the weave will orient diagonally and fold easily over the stem. |
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kchalupsky |
I know Jim mentioned the stems having mold under the glass. do you think I need to take this all the way down to the wood too? what happens if I don't? is it just a discoloration thing? would I just use tape again to blend in the fiberglass at these ends too? |
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1JimD |
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wingnut |
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sedges |
I would recommend staining a scrap and then try applying a piece of that tape to it and see if it adheres properly. Don't try and put the tape on the keel without the test. It could result in a real mess trying to remove uncured epoxy. |
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kchalupsky |
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tumblehome |
Dont sweat the small stuff. I bet if I built a timber frame house it would fall over. Tom |
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kchalupsky |
thank you Kyle |
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tumblehome |
The cloudiness in some parts of the canoe are because you didn’t use the west system 207 hardener which will not ‘blush’ or cloud as it cures. You can’t take that out. It’s in there for good. However, the epoxy you used is very strong and durable so you have a well epoxied canoe. You need to sand the entire hull, inside and out to remove any lumps or runs in the epoxy, then give it a few coats of marine spar varnish to finish it off. One picture you provided shows a little bit of the cloth. Leave it alone since there isn’t anything you can do about it and it is more cosmetic than anything. Surprisingly, when you varnish the hull, those spots tend to disappear like magic, really. When varnishing, please use very thin coats, just enough to wet out the hull. Let it dry in a heated space and sand lightly with very fine sand paper then re-coat. It does look like it was crushed at some point where I see a split in the glass. You are going to need to buy some epoxy and a piece of fiberglass cloth (4oz will work nice since it’s a little thin and will lay nice and flat)and fix that spot. Sand the damaged area smooth and apply the glass and epoxy. You will not get that spot to look like new but do your best. You might need more than one coat of epoxy. Use wax paper over the pathed area to help hold the epoxy in place while it cures. You probably have some work on the inside too. Look at each problem on your boat as a project rather than looking at the whole thing trying to fix it all in one fell swoop. If you have other questions, please ask. Tom |
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kchalupsky |
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sedges |
Run a sharp blade along where the keel meets the hull to separate the glass. Start peeling glass at that split. It will come off pretty easy. If the keel is glued to the hull you will have to plane it off. An electric plane will be a wonderful tool to use, but a good well adjusted bench plane will work, too. Get the canoe level, but low enough to work over it. You will then have to put a strip of glass where the keel had been. This may be a little more than you had in mind. If you want to preserve the keel you should still strip the glass off so you can seal it properly. The keel is not in anyway improved structurally by the glass. It just needs epoxy to seal it. Most of the rest of the work is basically cosmetic. Good luck with you project. Send us up-dates! |
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kchalupsky |
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tumblehome |
The inside looks pretty good. Captains varnish is very good varnish. It’s a little thicker than some big box store varnish which is not necessarily a bad thing but it needs to be warm and stay warm after you varnish for at least 12 hours. It cures very slow. Like it’s still tacky after 6 hours. Good varnish cures/dries slower because it has fewer solvents in it. Tom |
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1JimD |
Care not to sand into the weave, as this will weaken the cloth. The crack between the courses of strips, could be cut and filled, then patched. extra work , but up to you . I would at least add extra layers inside and out. A 2"wide strip. Feather the edges with a scraper. Nice Winter project, especially if you have a heated shop ! Good Luck ! What design is this ? Jim |
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1JimD |
That will need addressing (Removal) If you used Epoxy, it won't peel off easily. like Polyester resin. Again good Luck ! |