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Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Group Forum: Boat Builders and Repair :: MATERIAL FOR FORMS
 
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HighPlainsDrifter
04/12/2010 10:11PM
  

We have this thing called "spring clean-up" in Brookings. Folks can pile crap on the curbs and the city picks it up free. While the stuff is on the curb, it is a zoo. Many folks go around (as do I) looking at one mans junk to make it their treasurer.


Today I picked up enough 3/4 high density particle board (cabinet grade) and 3/4 plywood (plugged and sanded both sides) to make my forms. Feeling pretty good about my find.......... so, I am using 3/4 inch for all forms


My project is taking shape. I am gathering supplies and soon will pick up my strips from Woodcanoe........ and damn, I am getting a workshop built too! For many years I have wanted a shop. Can't wait for ground breaking on my little 13' x 20' canoe barn.
 
JEFF2053
04/08/2010 08:14AM
  
I am making my forms and I can get some 1 1/2" thick plywood for free but I'm wondering is this to thick would it create a flat spot or would there be any other problems that I just haven't thought of? This is my first strip canoe I'm building the Northwest Cruiser any thought would be appreciated
Thanks
Jeff
 
Bannock
04/08/2010 09:23AM
  
Interesting ... I don't know. My inkling is that it should be OK. With 3/4" forms the strip generally contacts just one point (one of the edges). It doesn't flatten out. However 1 1/2" is pretty wide.


You may have to bevel the center form after you have cut it out. I THINK that would be the only form that you have to do that on.


Once the stapples are removed the strips relax away from the forms a hair which helps fair it. Then the sanding fairs it more.


I think you'll be OK if you bevel the center form.
 
JEFF2053
04/12/2010 12:17PM
  
Thanks for the input it sounds like the general consensus is to use 3/4" I can do that.
Thanks again
Jeff
 
jdevries
04/08/2010 09:59AM
  
Agree with Bannock...as usual. As long as you've got the ability to make accurate cuts (i.e. a decent bandsaw with a large table) I think you'll be ok. Maybe run a router with a small round over bit over the edges to create a bit of bevel?


JD
 
mwd1976
04/08/2010 10:07AM
  
Along the lines of what Jdevries said...Don't try to cut something that thick with a jigsaw, you won't get an accurate cut. The blade will deflect and you'll end up with weird bevels.


3/4" Particle board is pretty cheap and worked fine for me.
 
JEFF2053
04/08/2010 10:09AM
  
Actually I'm running all the forms on a cnc router so hey should be very accurate
 
Cedarboy
04/08/2010 04:31PM
  
That will work just be careful about spacing the stations since they are to be at 12in face to face. Better to use 3/4 as that is what it calls for. Also you will need to have longer bolts for the stations.
CB


Can I send you my plans so I can get CNC cut forms?? LOL
 
HighPlainsDrifter
04/08/2010 08:45PM
  

I would think that beveling the stem molds would be a pain. maybe you could use something thinner on the stems
 
jdevries
04/09/2010 11:33AM
  
Good point HPD. I beveled my stem forms and they were 3/4 inch plywood.
 
woodcanoe
04/15/2010 08:45PM
  
Hello,


It sounds like you settled on the 3/4" particle board. I would also mention that the 1 1/2" plywood would be incredibly heavy. If you can, put casters on your strongback so you can move it around in your shop. If you had that heavy plywood it would be like pushing a car around the shop. Not fun.


Make sure you have a method to remove the forms from the strongback once the canoe is completed. I've heard many stories about guys sawing the forms out or using some other crude means becasue they couldn't reach the clamps or screws they used to secure the forms to the strongback once the canoe was ready to come off the forms.


Tom