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02/26/2011 08:24PM |
Dick
What kind of wood did you use for the gunnels? The finish is real eye candy.
Joe
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02/28/2011 09:56AM |
A few of my NW cruiser, as well as a few trim jobs I've done on Kevlar boats. You could easily do the same on a wood boat.
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02/27/2011 09:01AM |
The gunwales are two piece Honduras Mahogany epoxied to the hull with thickened epoxy and not fastened with screws. I did one piece at a time and after the first piece was set I did the next piece. The parts were clamped lightly with cheap plastic spring clamps so as not to squeeze all the epoxy out and starve the joint. They were epoxy coated and marine varnished after a light sanding. This is what gives the depth to the finish and a complete seal. They have held up extremely well and still look nice after several years of use in the BWCA and local lakes.
Dick
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02/28/2011 03:02PM |
on insula lake...
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03/07/2011 01:30PM |
Ben
Thanks for the link to your FaceBook. Nice set of pictures. Beautiful work and "staple-less" too :)
I like the solid wood (deviation in scupper spacing) at your seats and center thwart..... form follows function ?
What is your spacing on the scuppers (I like them)? Scupper spacing can look beefy or elegant. I think spacing (pleasing to the eye and function) depends on the canoe size. Not sure one size fits all......
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03/07/2011 05:42PM |
quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
Ben
Thanks for the link to your FaceBook. Nice set of pictures. Beautiful work and "staple-less" too :)
I like the solid wood (deviation in scupper spacing) at your seats and center thwart..... form follows function ?
What is your spacing on the scuppers (I like them)? Scupper spacing can look beefy or elegant. I think spacing (pleasing to the eye and function) depends on the canoe size. Not sure one size fits all......
"
The cut sections are about 2 1/2", and the uncut sections are about 2". I laid out the seats, etc. first, then tried to follow this pattern. The scuppers are 1/4" deep. The stock for the inwales was 3/4" X 3/4", and the outwales were 1/2" X 3/4".
I like the looks of off-colored scuppers...when done correctly. IMHO, one of the downsides to the method I used is that you are generating stress risers at each cut. I only had one split a bit, but it was mended with epoxy and a screw.
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03/17/2011 11:31PM |
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03/09/2011 10:23PM |
quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
There is something very pleasing about the spacing you used and I can't explain why......... but I will copy it....... :)
"
As they say, copying is the greatest form of flattery...or my motto "Steal Shamelessly!"
As far as how I arrived at the layout, I sketched out what gunwale needed to look like. I knew where the tapers should start, where the yoke and thwart were, and where the rear seat needed to be. I wanted to leave room for about 6" of front seat movement in case I didn't like the location once everything was installed. I basically started drawing different patterns and found one that would work with the spacings that I needed. They aren't all 2 1/2" wide. They range from 2 1/4" to 2 3/4", but the solid areas are scaled to match. Just don't make too big of a change at once. For example, 2 3/8, 2 1/2. 2 3/8 looks a lot better than 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/4. I figured that seat and yoke locations were the most important part of the gunwale, and the rest just needed to look pretty.
On my next boat, the gaps will be 5/16" instead of 1/4". After some touch up sanding, etc, they are a hair shy of 1/4". That is a REALLY tight fit for BDB's, 1/4" rope, etc.
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03/09/2011 09:26PM |
Ben
Out of curiosity how did you come up with your layout for your scuppers ? (cut sections are about 2 1/2", and the uncut sections are about 2").
I started cutting my scupper blocks today (1/4" X 2" X 3/4"). I am using black walnut and cutting the stock with 3/8" Forstner bit. I laid some out with different open areas. I kept coming back to your open and closed spacing.
There is something very pleasing about the spacing you used and I can't explain why......... but I will copy it....... :)
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03/10/2011 08:54AM |
I'd like to see some pictures when you get them installed. I don't quite understand how you are going about forming your scuppers. It sounds as though you are using individual scupper blocks.
Dick
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03/21/2011 08:36PM |
quote Jiimaan: "Wables,
This was my first canoe and I had a ball doing it. I've been a woodworker for many years but this was my first foray into using fiberglass and epoxy. The Biggest lesson I learned was that on glassing the inside, the risk of outgassing is much higher and if you wet out the interior and go in to watch the first half of the Packer game, you will have air bubbles that cannot be fixed easily 8"
I had my issues on the outside. I figured that it would only take a couple of hours to fiberglass working alone, so I grabbed a homebrew and started after the kids went to bed. Six hours later I was exhausted, but it turned out OK.
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03/21/2011 06:44PM |
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03/22/2011 08:31AM |
Incidently, the scuppers are black walnut and the gunwales are black ash.
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03/21/2011 08:04PM |
Dick
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03/06/2011 09:22PM |
nice work !
do you have a close-up picture of your maple decks?
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03/06/2011 10:52PM |
quote HighPlainsDrifter: "Wables
nice work !
do you have a close-up picture of your maple decks?"
Not on this computer, but there are a couple in my Facebook album:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1082658376&aid=2024444
I have it set up so anyone can view the album. Let me know if you have a problem viewing it.
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03/02/2011 08:39PM |
quote bear bait: "quote buffalodick: "bear bait,
I have no experience with graphite canoe bottoms.
Is the graphite in powder form and mixed with epoxy or is it sheet material?
Where would I get the graphite?
Thanks
Dick "
its a powder that you mix with epoxy.
got mine here... clc boats "
Thanks, bear bait!
Dick
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03/24/2011 07:39AM |
Evrybody else = how much do these beutiful canoes weigh?"
NW Canoe lists the Passage at 40 pounds, I weighed mine at 45 pounds on a questionable bathroom scale, but that feels about right.
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03/24/2011 12:16PM |
quote Jiimaan: "My Bob's Special weighs in at a svelte 52 lbs
Did anyone else loft their own plans rather than buying printed plans? I thought the lofting process added immensely to the enjoyment of the project. "
I purchased my Freedom 17-9 plans, but lofted the Bob's Special that I am building now. The only thing that miss from the Bear Mountain plans is the seat locations.
Jiimaan, would you be willing to share your seat placement details with me and if there is anything that you would change about them?
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03/24/2011 12:51PM |
I would be happy to share but I will have to find the measurements and post later. I am happy with their placement.
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03/13/2011 09:45AM |
Northwest Passage
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03/13/2011 09:13PM |
Congratulations on a good build and successful launch. Did you break a bottle of bubbly over her bow?
Sure looks like the Hudson River...... is that where you went?
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03/08/2011 09:02AM |
Wables,
What method did you use to cut your scuppers and what do you mean by stress risers?
Dick
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02/28/2011 09:36PM |
Nice looking boat! Is that carbon fiber on the bottom?
Dick
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03/14/2011 06:49PM |
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03/01/2011 04:24PM |
I have no experience with graphite canoe bottoms.
Is the graphite in powder form and mixed with epoxy or is it sheet material?
Where would I get the graphite?
Thanks
Dick
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03/01/2011 04:37PM |
quote buffalodick: "bear bait,
I have no experience with graphite canoe bottoms.
Is the graphite in powder form and mixed with epoxy or is it sheet material?
Where would I get the graphite?
Thanks
Dick "
its a powder that you mix with epoxy.
got mine here... clc boats
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03/01/2011 02:11PM |
quote buffalodick: "bear bait,
Nice looking boat! Is that carbon fiber on the bottom?
Dick"
thanks
its graphite
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03/06/2011 08:40PM |
This is my second boat, still in progress. It is a Bob's Special, and I will probably use the same combination of trim wood.
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03/08/2011 05:16PM |
Stress risers happen any time you have a corner on something under tension or compression. The outside edge of the inwale is under tension because it is at the outside of the bend. The tensile forces want to "flow" into the solid part of the scuppers, and then back out. If there is a sharp angle to the scupper, you are more likely to have the inwale crack in this location. By cutting them out with a rounded profile, you are basically making a fillet, which helps distribute some of the stresses.
You can really see this when you are bending the inwale. It wants to bend at the cut-outs.
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03/10/2011 07:42PM |
You have an artistic eye. Regardless of how you came up with your spacing........ the end result was that it looks good. Thank you for the design
Dick
Yes, I am using individual scupper blocks. The blocks will be glued to the inwales in their appropriate places (hopefully) with thickened epoxy. Take a look at this link to Michne boat. Michne has a nice WEB page for builders. His write-up of the scupper blocks is excellent and he has pictures.
Michne Boat: Gunwales
Here is a picture of my block cutting jig:
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03/11/2011 09:21AM |
I like your jig and how you are using the forstner bit to cut the blocks to length. The contrasting wood will also be a nice touch. I am looking forward to see your finished boat. You do nice work!
Dick
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03/19/2011 11:09PM |
quote Jiimaan: "
Bob's Special"
Beautiful! Got any close-ups?
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03/19/2011 08:19PM |
I don't know what happened to my original pictures but here they are again.
Bob's Special
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03/20/2011 07:38AM |
This was my first canoe and I had a ball doing it. I've been a woodworker for many years but this was my first foray into using fiberglass and epoxy. The Biggest lesson I learned was that on glassing the inside, the risk of outgassing is much higher and if you wet out the interior and go in to watch the first half of the Packer game, you will have air bubbles that cannot be fixed easily 8(
But overall, I am very happy with the boat and she paddles beautifully.
The decks are pine, cherry, and walnut. The gunwales are black ash.
I took a different approach to hanging the seats. I decided to use a combination cleat AND hangers. I am a fairly large man and decided that the redundancy was warranted
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03/20/2011 08:17AM |
Let me say that my intention is not offend anyone here but, I want to point out that I have noticed some glue residue remaining under the glass on some hull pictures. While this in no way affects the the performance of the finished canoe it does detract from it's finished beauty. As a perfectionist myself, I strive to remove all glue that is on the surface of the wood prior to glassing. After I finish sanding I will wet the hull with a sponge soaked in water which helps to raise any dents as well as causes the unsightly glue to show up clearly. I will then mark all glue areas with pencil and re-sand after the hull dries. We all spend a great deal of time and effort in building our "special boats" but tend to rush the final phases of construction. Life is a learning experience and I realize that I am expressing "my" opinion only. It is my hope that this observation will be received as constructive and positive in the long run.
Dick
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03/20/2011 12:24PM |
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02/24/2011 08:19PM |
We have very few pictures of boats. This is a building group.... so flaunt the boat :)
I would like to see your trim details as well as the whole boat
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03/21/2011 09:17PM |
Jiimaan
Question! How did you round over the inside top edges of your scuppers?
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03/22/2011 02:12PM |
interesting....... my scupper blocks are black walnut and my inwale is white ash (sapwood white). My outwales are white ash (heart wood brownish)
Michne (WEB page) provides a source called MLCS. I have ordered from them before. The brass pilot can be found at:
brass pilot round-over bit
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03/23/2011 07:37PM |
quote buffalodick: "Here is a picture of my Merlin 38 Special.
Dick"
buffalodick - where could I find plans for a merlin 38 special?
Evrybody else = how much do these beutiful canoes weigh?
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03/23/2011 08:21PM |
quote BigZig: "quote buffalodick: "Here is a picture of my Merlin 38 Special.
Dick
buffalodick - where could I find plans for a Merlin 38 special?
Evrybody else = how much do these beautiful canoes weigh?"
I bought my plans from Northwest Canoe in Saint Paul. Check with them to see if they still are available. Northwest Canoe
My 38 Special is the Original Merlin with no rocker scaled up 3.8%. That is where the 38 special name comes from.
My canoe as built weighs 42 pounds.
Dick
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03/23/2011 08:13PM |
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03/24/2011 08:13AM |
Did anyone else loft their own plans rather than buying printed plans? I thought the lofting process added immensely to the enjoyment of the project.
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02/25/2011 03:04PM |
Dick
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02/25/2011 02:10PM |
Dick
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02/25/2011 10:14PM |
Thanks for the photo. I looked at your albums. Beautiful boat and nicely trimmed for function
How do you like that sliding seat/yoke deal? Do you pad that yoke for carrying? The arrangement sure looks functional and a real plus to get away from a detachable yoke.
I like your decks and the drain holes....... something I have also been thinking of doing.
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02/26/2011 09:28AM |
Thank you for the compliments!
The sliding seat portage yoke works pretty well. Not shown in the photos is the fact that I have added Chosen Valley portage pads to the yoke. These are really comfy pads and well worth the money. I am considering building a longer seat frame so that it will better accommodate a Crazy Creek canoe seat to help support my low back. To portage all I need to do is fold the seat back down and slide the seat forward.
The holes in the deck plates are for adding a painter line if needed.
The scuppers were machined into the inwales and the edges were rounded over with a piloted router bit. This makes draining water out very easy.
Dick