Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Group Forum: Boat Builders and Repair :: Gunwale or Gunnel: screw em or glue em
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bcon2011 |
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Wables |
I epoxy the the gunwales on, and add screws at the seat hangers, thwart, and yoke. |
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Wables |
quote HighPlainsDrifter: " For anything under a gunwale I use stainless. For anything exposed I use bronze. |
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mwd1976 |
Mostly for the reasons Cedarboy listed. Someday the gunnels will need to be replaced, and I'll be happy I used screws on that day. |
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Bannock |
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Jiimaan |
As for the type of screws, I used Stainless steel counter sunk and covered with a plug. |
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Bannock |
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Cedarboy |
I think if you epoxie /glue you are setting yourself up for heartache CB |
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bear bait |
not sure what could damage the gunnels so bad they need to be replaced yet keep the canoe floatable. (like you said) my first canoes gunnels got all scratched up and some water damaged happened. i sanded them down completely and revarnished and they now look new. |
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HighPlainsDrifter |
ok...... score so far is: Screw: 1 Epoxy: 1 I think this will turn out as I expected. But I do like to read the pros and cons |
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HighPlainsDrifter |
Sort of an opinion poll Is it potato or patato, gunwale or gunnel? That is not my real question........ the opinion I am looking for is to screw or not to screw. Big selling point for screws........ it is easier to replace a gunwale if screwed on. But, I think if I have to replace a gunnel, it will be a bit more serious repair than just the upper edge of the canoe. I am leaning toward thickened epoxy glue. What way did you go? |
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GSP |
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HighPlainsDrifter |
epoxy: 2 Started cutting my ash gunnel stock today. I had some 15/16 #1 common. On ripping, I found why it was common....... anyway, it made great kindling for my wood stove tonight. Tomorrow I am off to pick up some lengths of select white ash. I will have to scarf to get the length I want. On a positive note, I made one sweet scarf jig (1:8) for my table saw. Works good |
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sleepnbag |
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HighPlainsDrifter |
and tied up 3 all |
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HighPlainsDrifter |
Screws (no epoxy) take the lead with 4 Epoxy (no screws): 3 Screws and epoxy: 2 Question for the screw users: what kind ? |
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Wables |
quote HighPlainsDrifter: " Will that be your vote? FYI, you don't get a vote until the boat survives the BWCA! LOL! |
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HighPlainsDrifter |
And the poll shows: Screws (no epoxy) still in the lead with 4 Epoxy (no screws): 3 Screws and epoxy: 3 Had a successful day dry fitting my inwales and soon I will add one more vote for screws and epoxy. |
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buffalodick |
quote HighPlainsDrifter: " Joe, The main reason I chose to epoxy directly to the sides of the finished hull is because I did not want to penetrate the hull with screws. I figured that by drilling holes through the hull I would be exposing the wood core to potential water seepage and decay. No mater how well sealed with varnish there will still be the possibility of water getting into the unsealed joint between the gunwale and the side of the hull providing a path to the wood core. Once the water is there it will remain and do it's damage. I can't imagine ever having to replace the gunwales as mine have stood up well for the last 7 or 8 years. If I ever do need to replace them I could easily saw away most of the wood and sand the remaining gunwale wood down flush with the hull without going through the glass cloth. As I said mine are still like new so I don't ever anticipate replacing them. I believe that some kevlar canoe gunwales may fail due to the cap style gunwale used which is not finished inside the groove before assembly with through hull screws allowing water to get underneath. Dick |
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RAFA Ranger |
I read a bunch about both, but in the end I was just more comfortable working with a drill and screws than epoxy. |