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Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Group Forum: Boat Builders and Repair :: Finally got wood.
 
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bumabu
04/19/2012 11:54AM
  
No viagra needed. Went to the local mom and pop lumber yard, cuz I like to feed the little man, and pick their brains. They quoted me 39 bucks per 3/4" X 3.5" X 18' clear Western Red Cedar. I almost choked. I asked them if they would mind me picking throught their current stock of "non-clear" cedar.

After about an hour, I emerged with a wierd mix of boards that was pretty clear. Some were 5/4 but most were 3/4 thick, different widths and lengths. I know I will have some knots in the boat, but I don't think there will be many. To be honest they don't bother me at all. Total cost 139 bucks.

Now my 1st question is this: do you use 90 degree angles on the butt joints, or do you 45 them and glue the overlap? I was leaning towards the 45 method.

2nd question: my family is loyal to elmers wood glue, but I was thinking about finding a good fast set glue to speed up the progress. Glue recommendations?

3rd question: If I had some more time, I would spend it jazzing up the design of the woodwork. But I don't have a lot of time. What are some simple things you guys do to enhance the sex appeal of your boat?


 
mirth
04/19/2012 02:52PM
  
Bud, this is probably a little late but I saw on one of the Southern MI Craigslists today that a guy is clearing out a bunch of pre-sawed, beaded & coved, clear western red.
 
jdevries
04/23/2012 11:19AM
  
When joining your wood, make sure you spend some time matching it up by color and grain as best you can first, it will make a big difference in how the finished product appears. When I joined mine I used a very low angle scarf joint. For a 3/4 inch wide strip the joint was probably an inch long. I made a jig and attached it to my combo belt/disc sander. The cedar is soft enough that you can buzz right through it on the sander and end up with a very accurate and smooth joint.


Jazz it up on the decks, gunnels, and thwarts.


Jim
 
mirth
04/21/2012 01:41PM
  
Somebody's unloading a strongback w/stations if you need a design...


http://madison.craigslist.org/mat/2958781834.html
 
bumabu
04/21/2012 04:09PM
  
I am good on that Mirth, have stations for a Northwest Cruiser mounted on my strongback already but thanks.
 
bumabu
04/23/2012 01:05PM
  
Joint jig clamped to table saw with sanding disk, good idea.
 
Wables
04/19/2012 11:57PM
  
I did 90 degree joints on my first boat, but I won't do it again. I now use a 6:1 scarf joint that is nearly invisible. The down side is that I need to glue the scarf off of the boat, but I only do 2 strips a night and it only takes a few minutes so it's no big deal for me. If you are going to try to strip it in a weekend, you are better off with butt joints.
 
bumabu
04/20/2012 07:49AM
  
Thanks guys, now some more to think about. I looked for those strips Mirth, couldn't locate them.
 
bumabu
04/20/2012 09:53AM
  
Thanks Mirth. "planking" go figure.

Not a bad deal if yer close by, but I cant afford to take the time and spend the money to drive over there.
 
mirth
04/20/2012 09:44AM
  
Bud - here ya go. I found them on the Grand Rapids Craigslist.
 
tumblehome
04/20/2012 01:15PM
  
Elmers will hold the wood together but you can't sand it. It will gum up your paper so please don't use Elmers.


Tighbond is water resistant but that doesn't matter. However, Titebond cures hard enough to sand and that why your should use it. Loyalty to Elmers is a good thing except on your canoe :)


Use the tinted Tightbond or add some sawdust to it to darken it. GLue is inevitably seen in some of the joints on the canoe and show nearly white when you glass the boat. The tinted glue will be nearly invisible to the eye.




Tom
 
HighPlainsDrifter
04/19/2012 09:10PM
  

never did a butt joint, but if I had to, I probably would go 90


I use TiteBond III because I saw it used on a boat constructed at North House....... no other reason. Sometimes this stuff starts setting up a bit quick on me. Been thinking of a slower set glue.


jazzing up wood work...... I like it natural and try to make the best use of the wood colors that are in my stack of strips. Too many bells and whistles can spoil a wood canoe (in my opinion)
 
Cedarboy
04/19/2012 05:50PM
  
bumabu


#1- 90 or 45 either works. I use 90.


#2- plain old wood glue...Elmers. No waterproof glues!


#3- What #3 ?----you dont mind knots, make sure you cut the knots out of the strips after you rip them. KNOTS ARE BAD, they contain resin which will/can cause the canoe to delamb when in the sun. I have seen alot of strippers with alot of knots. The builder just didnt know that knots are a NO NO.


Have fun and welcome to the builders forum.
CB