We pick up our entry permit and get the third degree from the ranger manning the counter. She must have asked us ten questions about rules in the BWCA. I'm grateful for this because it shows Yao exactly how serious Americans can be about protecting wild places. We then get our fishing licenses from the gas station in Tofte - one cashier and four people who need licenses. Behind us, the line is ten people deep and none too happy. One lady is definitely trying to murder me with her stare. "Excuse me," I say, "can that lady in bait run a register?" "Yes, but she's working on bait." "Well can she not?" I feel bad. I say, "I don't mean to be a jerk."

We pick up our canoes from Sawbill. They are genuinely excited to know that we will be gone for ten days. "Do you guys need fishing licenses?"

On the ride to Kawishiwi Joe, Yao, and I talk to the driver about our experience teaching in Thailand. The driver has an Ed. degree but no job (not surprising right now), and he seems excited about possibly teaching abroad. He drops us off and snaps our picture. I'm so excited I don't even bother to contain myself and it's backslaps and high fives all around. I've done some good trips before, including BWCA, Glacier National Park, The Porcupine Mountains, Myanmar, and Laos, but I've never been gone for ten days and I've never been responsible for three other people for that long.

I have the maps, and paddle us right into a small bay of a small island. When we get into the river Yao can't believe the stillness and says that the trees and clouds reflected in the water is like a dream. I tell her that there will be a lot of beauty, and I hope that she can open herself up to nature and feel the peace within.

We get to Polly around 5. Yao portaged the canoe 95 rods into Lake Polly. Scott and Joe joke that I've got a good woman. They don't know the half of it.