Friday, October 03, 2014

Since I built it last night, we had a ready to light fire waiting for us when we got up. Once again it was a cold, gloomy morning. But, at least the rain was staying away. In short order we’d eaten breakfast, packed up, donned our rain gear and shoved off.

Our first portage was within eyeshot of our camp. Petit Rocher du Lac Croche, as the Voyageurs called it, climbs up to the top of the falls, and then beyond, over a good trail that isn’t overly long. This was a good warm up for the day, as we lingered in the area for awhile absorbing as much of this magical atmosphere as time would allow.

Before we could even get a good paddling rhythm established we were at our second portage – Wheelbarrow Falls.

There are chutes on either side of an island that divides the river. The channel on the American side is basically a long set of rapids, while the Canadian side is more precipitous. Both are picturesque.

Our portage landing was located on the island, and the trail ran along the left (north) side of the river. Portage de la Pointe Bois is a relatively flat, though exceedingly rocky path. In high water, the landing for this portage is difficult, if not impossible, to reach. In such cases, there is an alternate portage trail on the Canadian side. Although, when I’ve needed to use that one, the path has usually been a mud slick.

We were able to exercise our paddling muscles a little longer after that portage was completed. Next we paddled past the 60 rod portage up to the rapids before we realized we’d gone beyond the landing. In my opinion this was the toughest trail along the river as it twisted then climbed quite steeply. Another quick short paddle & we were at Horse Portage.

While the Voyageurs actually broke this one into 2 separate portages, Portage des Grand Pins & Petit des Bois Blanc. We chose to do it as one long portage.

Although this trail was over a mile in length, it was along a mostly level, well worn path. Along the way, there were several spur trails leading to the river. We just had to remember to keep right. Even though it was a gray & gloomy day, the vibrancy of the fall colors really shone through all along this portage. The oak trees in particular really added a special ambiance. Ruffed grouse also provided an occasional diversion from the task at hand.

As we dropped our first load off at the Basswood Lake (Lac Bois Blanc) end, we couldn’t help but notice a couple of men apparently trying to line their fully loaded canoe down the Canadian side of the falls. They seemed to stop when they noticed us, so we explored Basswood Falls before we headed back for our second load.

Upon our return, there was no sign of the 2 guys on the Canadian side. I scanned the water below the falls, half expecting to see a floating yard sale of gear bobbing in the foamy pool. Neither of us seen anything, so we presumed they must have made it.

After a short snack break, we pushed off into the largest body of water in the BWCAW, historic Basswood Lake.

With winds predicted to be coming out of the north, it was this section of the lake that had us worried the most. Although we felt that there were enough sheltering islands, to afford us protection until we got to the narrows leading to Jackfish Bay. From there we’d hug the protective northern shoreline, working our way to Back Bay.

Things went well, only some mild waves to deal with as we turned SW and headed for the narrows. Upon reaching the narrows we felt we’d be home free. That would not prove to be the case.

Contrary to predictions, the wind was coming out of the SW. And, with a vengeance! We fought the intensifying wind & waves before pulling off in a little cove to take a break. Rollers continued crashing in from Jackfish Bay, as we reconnoitered.

In keeping with one of the main themes of this trip; as part of our pre-trip planning, Paul Schurke (of Wintergreen Dogsledding) informed us of a new, undocumented, pictograph that they recently discovered in Jackfish Bay. I must admit, that throughout the genesis of our route, it never achieved ‘absolutely must see’ status. Still we knew we’d be passing by and, if conditions were favorable, it wouldn’t throw us too far off track. Obviously current conditions were less than favorable, so we didn’t even consider searching for them.

From where we were now, we were just about to turn and paddle to the SE. Getting around this point was going to be a little tricky, but once past, we felt we’d be OK until Back Bay. Initially we’d hoped to make it a little further, but now we had readjusted our sites to the campsite just north after the portage into Back Bay.

It was a little dicey getting around the point, but we made it in fine fashion. As we continued on, I tried to keep close to shore, but not so close as to catch a lurking boulder just below the surface. We’d really had to dig in a few times, and had to be ready to do so again at moment’s notice. So, when we turned into the small bay with the first campsite & were afforded a temporary free ride, I yelled to Vickie, “Take a break & rest up until we need to paddle again!” Ironically, as I rudder us along through the swells, this is even more unnerving than battling the waves was!

Mercifully, as we enter Lewis Narrows, the wind & waves relent. So, we are finally allowed to relax tense, overworked muscles and the pinkish hue gradually returns to our knuckles. This seemed to be a very pleasant section scenery wise. Of course, that statement should be tempered by the fact that, since entering the motorized zone, this was our first opportunity to contemplate something other than the next wave rolling at us. As we neared the portage into Back Bay; we once again enter the far north end of a SW orientated bay. So, predictably, the wind & waves were beginning to push us around yet again just as we pull into our portage landing. This portage was listed at 70 rods. In my travels around canoe country, I don’t recall crossing a trail in as good of shape as this one. Literally, you could drive a car from start to finish.

This side of Back Bay was noticeably calmer. Although across the lake, rolling in through the narrows, whitecaps could be seen. Good fortune was on our side, as our targeted camp was unoccupied.

As we pulled up, the brisk wind was now being accompanied by a light snow. Even though the landing wasn’t the best, after battling waves for the last couple of hours, it was still a welcome change to finally be on terra firma for the evening. Our cursory examination enlightened us to the fact that this was not a great campsite, but at least it had one fairly decent tent pad. There was also a nice pile of welcome wood, and the seasonal colors in and around camp brightened an otherwise gloomy day. Since at the moment we weren’t particularly choosy, or willing to shop around, it would have to serve as our humble Hilton in the woods - or, at least, our budget hotel.

For the second evening in a row, the rain chased me back under the tarp just before lighting a fire. The only difference being this time there was snow sporadically falling too. Keeping us company - there was a solitary loon that hung out in front of camp while we ate our supper. Vickie kept us supplied with hot drinks as we hunkered down under the tarp and played a few games of cribbage while listening to the weather radio. The forecast predicted for tomorrow would basically be a repeat of today. We had originally planned on staying in a couple more days. With this forecast, we now agreed on the decision to paddle out tomorrow if conditions permitted. Hoping to get an early start in the morning precipitated an untimely retreat to the tent. The frigid & persistent rain aided in that regard as well.

Daily travels – 5 portages totaling 555 rods.

Basswood River, Basswood