Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Group Forum: Boat Builders and Repair :: NWC Excurzion builders?
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1JimD |
Tom is also correct ! Pull your strips off and correct before going any farther. Stems should have the leading edge tapered, similar these. This is called a stemless stem ! Much easier to build and plenty strong ! I've built all mine this way. If you can find a Minesota Canoe Assc. Builders book, you will see the same method. |
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wingnut |
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CabSauv |
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CabSauv |
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mkdixon |
Mark |
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tumblehome |
It was also suggested that you can just skip that form that is causing troubles. I still don't know why that form is causing issues but if the fit of the strips look good, go with it. -T |
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tumblehome |
Your problem is the strips won't hold on the last form. If this is correct then there may not be a problem with your plans. Some canoe have a very fine entry and the strips don't flow smoothly alone this spot. They need to be pushed against the last form almost causing an indentation of the canoe at this spot. It will let up as you put on more strips. Once the canoe is rightside up, the fine entry will become apparent at this spot. You need to use a long brad of even a screw at this spot to get the strip against the form. Is this what you are experiencing? Pictures would help too. tumblehome |
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mkdixon |
tumblehome: "Also, there is not stem and it's supposed to have one. Looking at the end form (the perpendicular form) notice how it is about 1" lower at the top of it where it meets your last form. You are supposed to have a stem piece. Tom and CabSauv, These particular plans are not designed to have an extra stem piece. That gap should be there and is part of the plan. Dennis at NWC says they like to have that space to fit the strips in that area. It confused me too when I saw the space, but he assured me that the plans are supposed to be used without stem pieces, for stemless construction. All CabSauv needs to do is to at this point is to bevel the stem forms so the strips lay flat. If you're not convinced then I would suggest contacting NWC to get the final word. Mark |
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tumblehome |
This would also explain why the strips are not laying properly because you are stapling them to the form and they should get stapled to a stem piece. You're going to have to put the brakes on planking and make some stem pieces. They are customarily made from ash but really, you can make them from cedar strips laminated together. This part of your project is going to take some time I am making assumptions based on your photos. I promise, the fuss and time it takes to get this right will pay dividends later. Tom |
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1JimD |
It's easy to see how the edges of the cove, do that, but when you get to the Bilge area of the hull that is where the bead and cove really shines. I appreciate how little glue I have oozing out over the hull with bead and cove, saving me a lot of scraping and sanding to get a hull ready for glass. Yeah, I'm sold on bead and cove ! Jim |
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Arcola |
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mkdixon |
Mark |
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CabSauv |
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CabSauv |
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tumblehome |
I will defer to those that know about this particular model. I was going to make mention that there might have been an issue with placing his last form (the perpendicular one) too far from the end of the strong back. This would have also caused his issue where the strips don't meet the second from properly. |
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mkdixon |
Mark |
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mkdixon |
CabSauv: "I'll start with beveling as I did not do that. A router must be the best tool, yes?" A rasp will work, or a block plane. I've used both. |
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CabSauv |
There seems to be "pinch" between form two and the bow stem. So much so that the strips are extremely difficult to keep attached (stapled and glued) to form 1. In fact they break free from form 1 and from form 15: bow and stern. I'm wondering if I cut those last two forms too narrow. I don't see how as I followed the pattern all the way. If anybody has a set of forms against which we can compare my measurements, it would be great. |
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mkdixon |
Mark |
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1JimD |
Pearl |