I need some help with these car top carrier pads. The gunwales do not fit in the groves. Should I take a box cutter to the pad to make it fit or should I gust line it up as well as I can then ratchet it down?

I have an Oldtown canoe made of Royalex with pretty significant gunwales. I got the carrier pads from my dad and he had a similar canoe. I'm starting to wonder if his canoe was fiberglass instead or if he has just never used the pads and had the wrong ones. Are the specific pads for specific canoes? I really don't want to have to go buy a new kit before opener.

I would modify the pads. It is sort of nice if the stay on the gunwales as you turn the canoe over and put it on the car.

Also, be careful ratcheting down the canoe. Ratchet straps can be too powerful and damage the hull. Simple cam lock straps are plenty strong enough.

I saw the word ratchet and new that canoe was in for damage. I have never seen a canoe held down with ratchet straps that did not come loose.

On the issue of ratchet straps, I'd like to think we can elevate ourselves and be smarter than our primate brethren. The solution to over tightening is just that - don't over tighten them.

Daniel

Don't worry about the canoe gunwales fitting perfectly down into foam blocks. Mine doesn't fit in them perfectly either.

I've had success with modifying foam swim noodles. They're cheap. Buy a couple, cut em up to fit just right.

Pipe insulation works really well. Already split. Stays on. Cheap.

the trouble with either noodles or pipe insulation is that neither are durable.
They work but take an extra couple of bucks of either. Pipe insulation does last a little longer
Even better is roll cage padding.

quote billconner: "Pipe insulation works really well. Already split. Stays on. Cheap."

And it's longer, will stay on better. I've used the "Made for canoe" foam pads, pipe insulation, and pool noodles over 40 years of tying down boats and the pool noodles and pipe insulation works better IMHO? When you can, though, I would upgrade to a good rack.

As for ratchet straps, we use them on the farm all the time. The nature of the beast is you have to go that little extra to snug it up and that is what makes it a poor choice for boats. Rope, cam straps, Tieco ty-ups Tie Downs , ANYTHING but ratchet straps!

They aren't that durable but there are few substitutes that are cheaper or as durable. Just like other things, what's your canoe worth? A lot cheaper to replace noodles than a canoe.

quote yellowcanoe: "the trouble with either noodles or pipe insulation is that neither are durable.
They work but take an extra couple of bucks of either. Pipe insulation does last a little longer
Even better is roll cage padding."

Could you recommend where to get roll cage padding?

I've never encountered it before and am interested.

Thanks for the tip.

quote MrBadExample: "

quote yellowcanoe: "the trouble with either noodles or pipe insulation is that neither are durable.
They work but take an extra couple of bucks of either. Pipe insulation does last a little longer
Even better is roll cage padding."

Could you recommend where to get roll cage padding?


I've never encountered it before and am interested.


Thanks for the tip."

You can get roll bar padding at any racer supply stores or go to speedway motors.com

What's so bad about a ratchet? The foam blocks are there to be compressed. If all you do is tighten the ratchet enough so that the blocks are somewhat compressed then what damage would you do to the canoe? BTW: I am referring only to the strap that goes across the middle of the canoe, not the ones at the front and back.

If I were to travel 6 hours or so would I still be able to use the foam pads or would I need to get something like a suction cup roof rack? I see those cost about $100 just for the DIY kit from spring creek. Is that the best option or is there something else to consider?

Oh and while I'm at it. Any tips for reducing the humming you get with straps in the wind when you are driving?

quote A1t2o: "What's so bad about a ratchet? The foam blocks are there to be compressed. If all you do is tighten the ratchet enough so that the blocks are somewhat compressed then what damage would you do to the canoe? BTW: I am referring only to the strap that goes across the middle of the canoe, not the ones at the front and back.


If I were to travel 6 hours or so would I still be able to use the foam pads or would I need to get something like a suction cup roof rack? I see those cost about $100 just for the DIY kit from spring creek. Is that the best option or is there something else to consider?


Oh and while I'm at it. Any tips for reducing the humming you get with straps in the wind when you are driving?"

To reduce the humming try putting a twist or two in your strap

quote vinnie: " To reduce the humming try putting a twist or two in your strap"

It seems so simple. Why didn't I ever think of that?

quote A1t2o: "What's so bad about a ratchet?"

They come loose and the canoe falls off your vehicle. The ratchet vibrates against the side of your canoe leaving a bad scar or a hole.
Why use ratchet straps when there are so many better choices?

quote MagicPaddler: "

quote A1t2o: "What's so bad about a ratchet?"

They come loose and the canoe falls off your vehicle. The ratchet vibrates against the side of your canoe leaving a bad scar or a hole.
Why use ratchet straps when there are so many better choices?
"

But I put the ratchet and hooks inside the car. 2 reasons, first so they don't rub or vibrate, and secondly so that the hardware to take the canoe off the car is locked inside the car when I make a stop or leave the car unattended. They can still cut the straps if they really want to steal the canoe, but at least then they can't use my gear to haul it away too. That would just add insult to injury.

How likely would a ratchet hook really be to come loose? I've never seen it happen before when they were used properly. Hook to hook must not be on a corner or at a point where there could be slack due to compression on bumps. That's why having the hooks and ratchet sitting horizontally pulled tight by the ratchet away from any surface is ideal. A rag to keep it from rubbing on the roof of your car would be all you need with a roof rack.

You may have worked out a good way to use ratchet straps. But if you mention them on here, there will be a discussion to make sure you are aware of the issues. Now, if you mention using ratchet straps on your guitar then that would get really amusing.

You can go any distance with the foam blocks if you check them periodically. But personally, I'm intending to switch to the spring creek diy kit. But that's partially so I can adapt to different vehicles and carry two canoes.

The advantage I see of blocks over noodles.... is getting the canoe higher off the vehicle. That may or not matter depending on the shape of the roof, antennas, or whatnot.

Vinnie,


Thanks!!



Mr. Bad Example

I'm confused how you're putting the ratchets inside unless you are strapping the boat with the straps all the way around the outside of the boat then inside the roof? If you do this, it WILL wick water in if it rains. Not theoretical, not something I've heard about, something I learned from having to do it more than once and learning from the school of "Hard knocks."

We travel from IL to Quetico using canoe foam blocks and I have never had a problem with them going that far. I always check my straps when we get out to stretch our legs or get gas or at bathroom breaks. Occasionally I have to snug up a cam lock strap.

quote ozarkpaddler: "I'm confused how you're putting the ratchets inside unless you are strapping the boat with the straps all the way around the outside of the boat then inside the roof? If you do this, it WILL wick water in if it rains. Not theoretical, not something I've heard about, something I learned from having to do it more than once and learning from the school of "Hard knocks.""

I can definitely see that it would wick moisture, did not think of that before, but I don't think that is a huge issue for me. I drive 4 hours to Duluth where I meet up with my paddling buddy. He has a garage that I could use for the night if weather was a concern. Then it is only 2-3 hours to the entry point in the morning. The strap typically runs behind the front seats and over the leg room for the rear seats, so a little dripping water would not be the end of the world.

And yes I would run the straps around the boar and inside the roof. I see no other way of fixing the canoe to the roof without a roof rack. Even the suction cup racks have a strap running inside. I don't think this is a huge concern.

Another lower cost option, if you have time is to watch Ebay or Craiglist for a used rack. Probably cut the cost in half buying used. If your straps run straight down from the boat to a bar or 2x4 surrounding the boat there's a lot less chance for the boat to move sideways than if your straps run from the boat to your door openings. The door opening method is pretty much relying on the pads grip on the roof to keep it from sliding.

quote A1t2o: "

quote ozarkpaddler: "I'm confused how you're putting the ratchets inside unless you are strapping the boat with the straps all the way around the outside of the boat then inside the roof? If you do this, it WILL wick water in if it rains. Not theoretical, not something I've heard about, something I learned from having to do it more than once and learning from the school of "Hard knocks.""

I can definitely see that it would wick moisture, did not think of that before, but I don't think that is a huge issue for me. I drive 4 hours to Duluth where I meet up with my paddling buddy. He has a garage that I could use for the night if weather was a concern. Then it is only 2-3 hours to the entry point in the morning. The strap typically runs behind the front seats and over the leg room for the rear seats, so a little dripping water would not be the end of the world.


And yes I would run the straps around the boar and inside the roof. I see no other way of fixing the canoe to the roof without a roof rack. Even the suction cup racks have a strap running inside. I don't think this is a huge concern."

It actually makes it so you can check it while going down the road. Check it after the first 10 miles and again after 30 miles. After you have tightened it 2 or 3 times it will be more likely to stay tight.

Regarding the straps wicking into the car.
If you encounter any rain storms during the 6-7 total hours of your drive time you WILL wick water into your car.
Not just a few drips either. You will get wet on that ride.
Trust me. I know this from irritating damp experience.
The weather could be great though. Its a gamble.

The side to side shifting can also be an issue. Even with the bow and stern secured. Tie the bow out to both fenders of the car or front bumper.

quote ozarkpaddler: "

quote billconner: "Pipe insulation works really well. Already split. Stays on. Cheap."

And it's longer, will stay on better. I've used the "Made for canoe" foam pads, pipe insulation, and pool noodles over 40 years of tying down boats and the pool noodles and pipe insulation works better IMHO? When you can, though, I would upgrade to a good rack.


As for ratchet straps, we use them on the farm all the time. The nature of the beast is you have to go that little extra to snug it up and that is what makes it a poor choice for boats. Rope, cam straps, Tieco ty-ups Tie Downs , ANYTHING but ratchet straps!"

I use the pipe insulation to protect rack from gunwales, not on roof. The closed cell variety is very robust. The open cell will disintegrate.

What do you guys think if this suction cup roof rack? I have a bunch of Amazon gift cards so I thought this might work just as well as the spring creek but allow me to use the gift cards too. Plus it isn't a DIY kit either so it would look nicer and should be lighter and easier to setup.

Suction cup roof rack