I'm looking for recommendations for a system to put in my garage to store the canoe at ceiling height when its not being used. I saw a pulley system at fleet farm for kayaks that looked alright but I've heard that system requires the highest part of the kayak/canoe to hang down about 1.5/2 feet from the ceiling, so you don't get as much clearance as you would expect. I was thinking I could probably fabricate something from scratch, but would still need to get pulleys from somewhere. I'm curious what other people do.

Best way I can explain my set up is a "trapeze" bar type set up where I set the bow of the canoe. Then lift the back end with a rope and pully.

I bought this rack online somewhere a few yrs ago. Screws into ceiling(into stud/joist of course), has worked fine so far.


**think this was it**
Crawford-OH2-Adjustable-Overhead-Storage

quote paddlinjoe: "Best way I can explain my set up is a "trapeze" bar type set up where I set the bow of the canoe. Then lift the back end with a rope and pully. "

Interesting. Do you have any pics? I'm picturing something similar to the pic Howard posted with a pully on the back end. I like that setup a lot. Is it easily done by 1 person?

Howard, how do you get yours up there? Any pulleys or just lift up to the bar and slide it in?

Here is what I put together with 2x2s and pulleys bought at the local hardware store. There is another hanger at the other end of the canoe. Ropes are tied to brackets on the wall. Two people are required to raise or lower the boat. It is not a sophisticated arrangement, but it works.

quote Duluthian: "

quote paddlinjoe: "Best way I can explain my set up is a "trapeze" bar type set up where I set the bow of the canoe. Then lift the back end with a rope and pully. "

Interesting. Do you have any pics? I'm picturing something similar to the pic Howard posted with a pully on the back end. I like that setup a lot. Is it easily done by 1 person?


Howard, how do you get yours up there? Any pulleys or just lift up to the bar and slide it in?"

I just lift up an end and slide it through. I go from the inside of one end first, push it through and lift the other end onto the opposite bar. Depends on how high your garage ceiling is, I guess. But I think there are holes for height-adjustability on the bars that come down vertically from the ceiling.
I like to put a piece of foam pipe insulation on the crossbar for cushioning too, but that's just a personal preference.

I have something kind of similar to Ausable.
But the trapeze at the back doesn't have a pulley.
It just hangs from the ceiling.
I just put that end in first then use the pulley to lift the front up.

quote Ausable: "Here is what I put together with 2x2s and pulleys bought at the local hardware store. There is another hanger at the other end of the canoe. Ropes are tied to brackets on the wall. Two people are required to raise or lower the boat. It is not a sophisticated arrangement, but it works.
"

I did almost the exact same thing, but both ropes go to one place (via pullies directing them across the ceiling) so that they can be pulled in unison. Another loop of rope is used via prussik knot to ensure I can never drop the canoe accidentally.

What I don't like about it is that i have to have the 2x2's ropes so tight to keep mine high enough that they have a habit of squeezing the hull. Since I got my kevlar canoe, I think I will switch to a simpler system; I don't need the pulleys anymore to hoist such a light canoe.

quote mschi772: "

quote Ausable: "Here is what I put together with 2x2s and pulleys bought at the local hardware store. There is another hanger at the other end of the canoe. Ropes are tied to brackets on the wall. Two people are required to raise or lower the boat. It is not a sophisticated arrangement, but it works.
"

I did almost the exact same thing, but both ropes go to one place (via pullies directing them across the ceiling) so that they can be pulled in unison. Another loop of rope is used via prussik knot to ensure I can never drop the canoe accidentally.

What I don't like about it is that i have to have the 2x2's ropes so tight to keep mine high enough that they have a habit of squeezing the hull. Since I got my kevlar canoe, I think I will switch to a simpler system; I don't need the pulleys anymore to hoist such a light canoe."

Mine is home made like mschi772 made. DON'T use a cleat screwed into a vertical wall to tie the ropes too after you have raised the canoe. I bought a cleat from the hardware store, and some or most are made of cheap pot metal. Mine snapped off one morning and the 70-80 lb cheap aluminum canoe that was hanging fell on the hood and windshield of my now ex-wife's Volvo. Broke the windshield and the hood needed to be replaced for a grand total of well over $1,000. Both that canoe and that wife are now gone. I now use large steel eyebolts to tie off the ropes, and the eyebolt is securely screwed into the wall stud.

Tomster

If you are going to use cleats then get them from a marine store. We use them at much higher loads than 70 lbs on sailboats and to keep large boats at docks. They come in all sorts of sizes and a cleat hitch is very simple.

But use what makes you comfortable.

I use the fleet farm hoists, and they work really well. If you eliminate the slack on the straps by twisting them a couple of times, that actually only hang down about 4-6 inches from the ceiling.

I built racks on the inside garage wall for my canoes, Works great.

I rigged a block and tackle system using 2 double pulleys on each rope. I can get the bottom of the hull within 10 in. of the ceiling. Another pair of single pulleys route the ropes to a common location so they can be pulled at the same time from the same location. Works fine, but by the time I was done I could have bought a good one for less money. I bought the pulleys at Ace hardware. Check other brands. Some are able to get the boat tighter to the ceiling. Harken is an example, though admittedly pricier than some of the others.