I would like to take one pole with braided line on my September trip up to Knife Lake. Can anyone suggest a pound test I should use and a knot that is dependable?

Also, how about Power Pro line?

Thanks, Rick

I have used PP line in the 20 lb class and had good results. Some like a heavier line but 20 has worked well for me.

If you will be using a fluorocarbon tippet you can join to mono to braid with an FT knot. You can kind find a lot of different ways to tie it on You Tube. A double palomar knot also works well for me; I used it last summer without any fails.

I am sure you will get some sound advice from members of this community.

Tight lines!

I like 10lb power pro. If trolling cranks, it gets them down quick. I usually tie the pp to a swivel with a double looped uni knot, then tie to a fluoro leader.

I prefer Suffix 832 braided line but that's just me. I have used Power Pro and found it works equally well.

As far as the Fluoro to braid connection the knot that the other poster is referring to is the FG knot. It is a great knot if it is tied properly. There is a video on YouTube that I recommend. Look for the video of a young man demonstrating how to tie it while he is seated at a card table. I think he is affiliated with "Salt Strong." The knot works great but it has to be tied correctly or it will fail. Practice it at home a bunch and it will become second nature.

If I go without a fluoro leader I use a palomer knot for my connections. I do not think I ever had one fail.
-~JOE~

First off, is it going on a baitcaster or spinning reel? 4 or 3 strand braids like regular Power Pro can be easier to use on baitcasters than 8 strand braids like Power Pro Super Slick or Suffix 832. The reason for this is that the 8 strand types are more round in cross-section and can dig into the spool more easily. It's not a huge deal if you have good thumb control or large diameter line, but it can potentially lead to more backlashes. That being said, the 8 strand lines are much quieter because of the smaller weave as well as that round profile. Personally, I use Suffix 832 because it's quiet, plus it costs less and has better color life than the Power Pro Super Slick. As for knots, you can't go wrong with the Palomar. Super easy to tie, and I think it beat out the Uni in those knot war tests on youtube.

I like an 8 strand line as well. I use the Smackdown from Seaguar, it is smoother and quieter, and by nature, has a tendency for less ribboning, and less spraying. I like 20-30lb depending upon line diameter. I like to keep the line diameters similar, starting with the pound test of the flouro I want to use, and work backwards from there. Some trips I tend to adjust my flouro depending on the species I'm after. I may go from walleye, (8lb), to Muskie/Pike, (20lb). Yes I know the diameters don't match well, but with a uni to uni, it's no problem.

I like the FG knot but it can be tied incorrectly and then bad things can happen. I like the uni to uni and have used it for years when tying braid to Fluorocarbon without fail. An Albright knot is another that works good and leaves no tag ends and slips through the guides easily much like the FG knot, but is harder, (in my opinion), to tie incorrectly so less likely to have catastrophic failure.

Nomad

Power Pro is good stuff. I like 10lb moss green for most of my spinning gear. I use 8ish feet of either fluorocarbon or co-polymer for leaders (6 or 8lb.) Connected with the Alberto knot to the braid. Easier for me to tie than the FG knot; especially in a canoe. It goes through the guides easy too. You can see how to tie the Alberto knot on youtube.

I use the Palomar knot for connecting braid to the lure or swivel if I don't use a leader.

I've got a spool of Sufix 832 waiting to go on my next reel; and have only heard good things about it.

Wow guys thanks for all the information. We primarily fish for Smallmouth and northern's. If I catch a walleye it's usually by accident. Is a fluoro leader necessary or adventitious for Smallmouth or Pike? I know people say the walleye are more sensitive to the sight of the line.

Lots of good advice for you to consider.

Here is a few practical suggestions. Braid can and will hurt you if you allow it. I ALWAYS work with fingerless gloves while working with braid. Cycling gloves, weight lifting glove etc. You simply MUST check your work and that means wrapping the line around your wrists and maxing it out.

Also be advised if you get hung and then pull things very tightly bad things can happen. If pulling by hand you can cut your yourself, if pulling via the rod you can break your rod or, worst of all, you can have a jig head or lure rocket back directly at you under incredible speed and could potentially knock your teeth out or nail your eye.

My set up is 20 lb suffix 832 with 8' of 12 lb fluorocarbon tied via an FG knot for August walleye trolling in say 25 to 30 ft of water moving along at a good clip. If I wanted to focus even deeper or troll slower I might drop to 10 lb braid and 8 lb leader (thinner diameter, less drag, deeper depths attained > physics) but your margin for error is slim. Longer moderate action rods help with handling big fish and light braid by absorbing much of the energy. Remember, braid has no shock absorbing stretch.

For Pike I don't fool around and run 65lb power pro and 8' of 60 lb fluorocarbon leaders. Again I use the FG knot. The heavy line is for several reasons........first I run big lures often weighing 8oz. Secondly get a big pike in the cabbage weeds and suddenly 20 is undertackled (I rolled my boat trying to get a big pike out of cabbage weeds, the 20lb line broke, I was sideways to the fish and over my solo went). Thirdly I don't bring 40" plus fish into the boat. I stick the rod into my rod holder and tow the brute to shore. The long heavy fluorocarbon protects the line from rocks as I get close. Braid does not like sharp surfaces and can be damaged and come apart easier than many would believe.

I use 10lb Fireline tracer. I use it for trolling and vertically fishing for suspended LT. The yellow helps with pitching also. If Northerns are a target you will want a leader. I use 40lb fluorocarbon. Palomar knot for me.

With the FG knot, how often do you want to cut that out and retie? If I caught a monster then I could see it being a little obvious to check your knots and for nicks in the line, but with not so obvious situations how do you make that call?

Also when using a swivel do you tie that between the braid and the fluorocarbon or do you tie it down closer to the spoon/lure with a fresh 18" piece of leader?

If I use a braided line it is Berkley Fireline in the 20 to 30 pound range.

quote A1t2o: "With the FG knot, how often do you want to cut that out and retie? If I caught a monster then I could see it being a little obvious to check your knots and for nicks in the line, but with not so obvious situations how do you make that call?


Also when using a swivel do you tie that between the braid and the fluorocarbon or do you tie it down closer to the spoon/lure with a fresh 18" piece of leader?"

Braid to swivel to fluoro leader to lure

quote A1t2o: "With the FG knot, how often do you want to cut that out and retie? If I caught a monster then I could see it being a little obvious to check your knots and for nicks in the line, but with not so obvious situations how do you make that call?


Also when using a swivel do you tie that between the braid and the fluorocarbon or do you tie it down closer to the spoon/lure with a fresh 18" piece of leader?"

As per your leader fraying just check it. You can see it and / or feel it. Just cut above the fray (if there is one, often everything will be just fine). I have not had the FG knot fail even after numerous good pike but I am using rope for line. You are smart to question the integrity of your knots after catching a fish. The best way to check is to wrap the line around your wrists and pull. If it breaks it's time to retie ;-)

I build my leader thus when using braid........braid directly to fluorocarbon using an FG knot (saltstrong video tube) and then to the lure. If using anything which will spin (in line spinner or spoon) then a ball bearing snap swivel is a must otherwise I tie directly to the lure omitting the snap swivel. If using a snap swivel it is tied to the end of your fluorocarbon and lure added. Don't use a small snap swivel for pike fishing but rather at least 100lb test. This is for a few reasons. First off your heavier fluorocarbon will tie better to a thicker wire. Remember that fluorocarbon and mono ties best to similar diameters. (I use a 3 turn gryp knot tied via the tie fast tool). The second reason is that spoons need freedom to be effective. Small snaps are tight and will restrict movement.

If you use a barrel swivel between your braid and fluorocarbon leader that is fine as well but your leader will be much shorter, say 18" instead of 8'. Does it matter, I dunno. Sometimes it might, other times probably not. In any event with the FG knot you will be able to reel your knot right through most guides (I even put my FG knot through micro guides which are tiny indeed) and you can cast or troll without any problem.

The fireline which Quetico mike advocates also has its devotees including some very good canoe country fishermen that I have fished with. I have not used it so I have no knowledgeable opinion on it but it is another option.

10 lb white spiderwire no leaders

Double sorry

You all have been very helpful. I can't wait to try out the new Power Pro braided line in a few weeks.