Anyone experience excessive binding when cutting dry wood with the Sven?

Prior to our trip, we cleaned/oiled the blade, which is a few years old, but hasn't seen a huge amount of usage. When cutting some dry wood (probably birch) this time around, the saw was binding a lot, both before and after I had the wife apply gentle downward pressure to the end of the log being cut. I figured that the blade was just getting dull.

A few mins later, when starting the fire, I decided to remove some small live pine branches that were, IMO, too close to the fire grate to be safe (this was on Emerald Lake, which being a dead end, apparently does not get much usage).

Well, the 'dull' saw blade went through the pine like butter.

What gives?

Birch is an entry level hardwood, so it should be a bit harder.

Pine, aspen, and poplar should be pretty similar.

I could see the dampness reducing friction.

I don't cut much birch but when I do it always seems to have a retained moisture content.

Birch will not dry without being cut and split; the bark is a very effective vapor barrier. Encased in bark it will hold in moisture and rot. You won't find "dry birch" in nature unless the bark is stripped from it. I get a chuckle when I see stacks of cut unspilt birch logs at a camp site (or even split logs- it'll take a couple of months to dry)- definition of exercise in the service of futility.

I use Bahco folding handsaws and have different blades for green vs dry/dead wood.

quote Banksiana: "Birch will not dry without being cut and split; the bark is a very effective vapor barrier. Encased in bark it will hold in moisture and rot. You won't find "dry birch" in nature unless the bark is stripped from it. I get a chuckle when I see stacks of cut unspilt birch logs at a camp site (or even split logs- it'll take a couple of months to dry)- definition of exercise in the service of futility."

VERY true.

quote Banksiana: "Birch will not dry without being cut and split; the bark is a very effective vapor barrier. Encased in bark it will hold in moisture and rot. You won't find "dry birch" in nature unless the bark is stripped from it. I get a chuckle when I see stacks of cut unspilt birch logs at a camp site (or even split logs- it'll take a couple of months to dry)- definition of exercise in the service of futility."

That's why I ABD (Always Be Drying) on the edges of the fire grate, and build up to the middle. Its not about the existing fire, but the next one. I love washed up beaver logs pushed up by the ice, they dry up nice.

I have experienced more "binding" if the blade were not taught enough or if my angle of cut was not smooth and straight or when I force the depth of cut. Just let it glide through nice and straight seems to work best. Not sure if that is your issue, but is my 2 cents.

quote dew042: "
That's why I ABD (Always Be Drying) on the edges of the fire grate, and build up to the middle. Its not about the existing fire, but the next one. I love washed up beaver logs pushed up by the ice, they dry up nice.


"

Been there, in the spring when dry stuff can be tricky to find we will have split logs face up on the rocks getting as much sun and wind as possible, and the wood on deck will be stacked around the firepit just like you describe. Beaver wood can be nice stuff for sure, almost always a good size.

i just used my sven last week, no issues, all type of wood, maybe you have a sap issue? slows down the blade.

quote bwcasolo: "i just used my sven last week, no issues, all type of wood, maybe you have a sap issue? slows down the blade."

No need to start name name calling... I'm sure the OP is a swell guy. :)

quote dew042: "

quote bwcasolo: "i just used my sven last week, no issues, all type of wood, maybe you have a sap issue? slows down the blade."

No need to start name name calling... I'm sure the OP is a swell guy. :)"

I think I'm an allright guy

lol, good one :)

My guess is you didn't tighten the blade. I don't find any binding st all withthe sven saw. It chews through wood quite well.