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Huselius
member (20)member
  
08/16/2011 11:01AM   (Thread Older Than 3 Years)
(Sorry for the long post in advance) I'm curious to hear other people's thoughts on plastic worms - specifically, do other people use them much in the BW and how? A few years back I found a lure I love for bass - basically a 6 inch worm that corkscrews through the water near the surface if unweighted(www.thewormfactory.com if you don't know what I mean). I love the action on it and the fact that it has 3 hooks so I get the bass that hit the tail. The only problems I have with it are the fact that they are soft (so they break easily) and the fact that I've had larger fish actually break the line inside the plastic and no amount of braided line on my real can fix that.

I've been toying with making my own lures so I can have braided line inside it and maybe to save on cost when the plastic doesn't last, but I only see ideas for how to put a single hook in (Texas, Carolina, Wacky)... I've never really used them, but from my experience, I've gotten a large percentage of my fish from the tail hook and I'd hate to lose those fish. I'm currently trying to make a lure by running a long needle and line through a Trick worm and attaching hooks from there, but I probably (certainly) won't get as much action on the lure.

Does anyone have any thoughts, assurances of the standard rigs, comparisons between 3 hook and 1 hook setups, or advice on making the lure? I love them and they even worked great last year in the BW - I'm just trying to see what my options are. It would be a treat to be able to catch fish on my own creation and replace the parts as needed.
 
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bassnut
distinguished member(1340)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
08/16/2011 03:52PM  
First, congrats on using common sense-"the newer doesn't always mean better" thang!!
Creme Scoundrel was the first "plastic worm", rigged with 2 or 3 hooks. Reeling steady or stop-n-go are proven techniques. This lure works because it is erratic(not mechanical) in movement, gives off very few negative clues, and in general looks like something a predator fish eats(minnow, salamander, snake, worm). It is worked in the first few feet of the water column, so that usually fish are looking up at the lure, a sillouette, so that exact identification by the fish is difficult, and feeding "up" is natural(bad english!). And they come in cool polka dot jimihendrixpurplehazeykinda...colors.
the plastic is first generation, and is actually kinda stiff. If the worm tears, super glue can save the day. Also, you might try websites that sell tackle making things, there are devices that "melt" the plastic, and the worm can be "repaired". Janscraft, Tackle Warehouse are a few.
The rigging line is fairly tough, the hooks are kinda small. good luck on improving, i.e., Dyneema leader, stronger hooks. It is possible, just be patient. It would be nice if Creme got the idea!!
I see a potential problem in your rigging. If you are using Dyneema(braid), you are basically using line with no stretch, no cushion. Couple that with a rod that is stiff, and the only "give" is in your hooks and leader, a place you cannot control. Lighten up your rod(ML or M), or go back to mono. Also, since the hooks are generally kinda small(hence weak), you have to make allowances in your total rigging. Weakest links in setup:small hooks and leader. Making your own? worms tear-get destroyed easy...is it worth it?
Good luck!!
 
Basspro69
distinguished member(14142)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished membermaster membermaster member
  
08/16/2011 09:07PM  
I use a charlie brewer spider slider head 1/8 ounce 1/4 ounce if im fishing deeper than ten feet or in current, texas rigged with a 4 inch berkley power worm, in clear water it is my number one lure for bass. I dont miss many hooksets because my hooks are always sharpened(bassnut would be proud) and bigger fish always go for the head of the lure theyre trying to give it a kill shot.
 
PaddleAway
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08/17/2011 08:35AM  
I use plastic worms in the BWCA as a "clean-up" bait, or when hitting a perfectly prime-looking piece of lake.

Since you can't cover as much territory with plastics, we'll use other, active baits to search out & find fish. Once we find one, & think there may be more, we'll swap over to plastics & slow down the pace. This has worked wonders at times when the bass are schooled up.

As for the what, I'll use Berkeley Power Worms & others, but 95% of the time you'll find a wacky-rigged 6" Gulp sinking worm on the end of my hook. I've had great success with it over the years all over the state, & often when bass would bite on nothing else.

Good luck!
 
The Great Outdoors
distinguished member(5592)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
08/17/2011 08:53AM  
Tie your own 3 hook crawler harnesses with some 12 lb P Line, and stick the plastic worm or Power Worm on it.
You'll need to add a spinner or float on the rig in Minnesota to make it an artificial lure, because it has over 1 hook.
 
bassnut
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08/17/2011 01:14PM  
Favorite fall lure has to be a 4" twistertail worm on 1/8oz.-1/4oz. plain jighead. black or watermelon black seed. Not exactly weedless, but hook-rate with 8lb. test mono great.
cheap...catch fish good
 
Bushwacker
distinguished member (270)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
08/17/2011 01:58PM  
My favorite is The Worm too.

They mold it with an "S" bend and it spirals when you retrieve it. I like the three hooks weedless version. Put a split shot a foot up the line. Cast it into the slopiest area you can find; heavy weeds, timber and rock fields. Rell, let it drop a little reel etc. back to the canoe. They often hit on the drop. Pike love them too so bring some extras because a pike will chew it. You need a quality barrel swivel to prevent line twist. Bass can't resist them.
 
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