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03/23/2009 08:07PM
ok, not the real deal. as suggested on here awhile ago, i came up with my own solution. i know tugeyes have an installation pdf on their website. that said...
what are the opinions for correct, optimal placement. its going to be difficult for me (mentally) to drill 4, 5/8" holes in the hull, i want to get it right.
what are the opinions for correct, optimal placement. its going to be difficult for me (mentally) to drill 4, 5/8" holes in the hull, i want to get it right.
03/24/2009 06:56AM
kanoes
Put then about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the stems(about 4-5 inches on my 38 Special and 6 inches on my tandems) and about 2 inches back from the stems. I make a paper pattern when I drill mine so I can get them even. CB
Put then about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the stems(about 4-5 inches on my 38 Special and 6 inches on my tandems) and about 2 inches back from the stems. I make a paper pattern when I drill mine so I can get them even. CB
03/24/2009 08:04AM
Kanoes -
It's a mental thing. Tip - drill all the way through both sides - that way they'll line up more or less perfectly - standard Hardware store drills work fine. I travel the Q quite a bit and have lined many times. I like the product, I own the first Kevlar canoe to have them installed - I corresponded with the inventor. Neat product - make certain you position them low.
It's a mental thing. Tip - drill all the way through both sides - that way they'll line up more or less perfectly - standard Hardware store drills work fine. I travel the Q quite a bit and have lined many times. I like the product, I own the first Kevlar canoe to have them installed - I corresponded with the inventor. Neat product - make certain you position them low.
"You're not serious about wearing sandals on this portage.... are you?"
03/24/2009 02:31PM
I have read "mid point on the stem and stern" and I have also read "2" above the water line" it didn't say waterline when the canoe is loaded or empty.
I just asked Jon at Rutabaga about this last month, about putting them in my carbon fiber Prism and he didn't recommend it.
So in addition to Kanoes question has anyone done this to a carbon fiber canoe?
I just asked Jon at Rutabaga about this last month, about putting them in my carbon fiber Prism and he didn't recommend it.
So in addition to Kanoes question has anyone done this to a carbon fiber canoe?
DRINK COFFEE!!! Do stupid things faster and with more energy.
03/24/2009 02:31PM
I have read "mid point on the stem and stern" and I have also read "2" above the water line" it didn't say waterline when the canoe is loaded or empty.
I just asked Jon at Rutabaga about this last month, about putting them in my carbon fiber Prism and he didn't recommend it.
So in addition to Kanoes question has anyone done this to a carbon fiber canoe?
I just asked Jon at Rutabaga about this last month, about putting them in my carbon fiber Prism and he didn't recommend it.
So in addition to Kanoes question has anyone done this to a carbon fiber canoe?
DRINK COFFEE!!! Do stupid things faster and with more energy.
03/24/2009 04:29PM
My Horizon 17 (royalex) came with holes already drilled. They are about 1" below the gunwale, and about 1 1/2" from the front edge of the bow and stern. The holes appear to be 7/16" in diameter.
Life is Good, Living is Better. Everlasting Life is Best! Pray for Us Amok.
03/24/2009 04:56PM
I didn't hesitate drilling my composite hulls, there is a lot of rigidity at the stems and the floatation tank. Just sealing issues [no problem with my 20+ year old Spirit2].
A royalex hull will be different, no tank, slippery and softer material.
I'd suggest getting advise directly from 'Wenonah'!
butthead
A royalex hull will be different, no tank, slippery and softer material.
I'd suggest getting advise directly from 'Wenonah'!
butthead
"never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups" George Carlin
03/24/2009 09:27PM
If you are cobbling up your own system, then drilling straight through from one side to the other might work well. But if you are using the actual Tugeye product, then you want to drill each side separately, and as close to perpendicular to the hull as possible. The Tugeye has a flange on the outside, and if the hole is not perpendicular to the hull, especially on a thicker hull like Royalex, then the flange will not seat flat against the hull.
03/26/2009 10:36PM
Been wanting to do that too and those 4, 5/8" holes in the hull (as kanoes points out) are a mental challenge. I have a composite carbon/kev and just the idea scares hell out of me. I think I would practice on my Royalex first
"Boredom, Tyler - that's what's wrong. And how do you beat boredom, Tyler?... Adventure...(Never Cry Wolf, 1983)
03/28/2009 07:02AM
We have a saying around the machine shop where we spend thousands of $$$ turning a part and are afraid near the end we might make a mistake, "it's just metal."
Life is Good, Living is Better. Everlasting Life is Best! Pray for Us Amok.
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