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ADKpaddler
member (21)member
  
01/28/2021 09:18AM  
Now that I have my permit for my 1st trip to the BWCA, it's time to begin planning in earnest. While I am not new to wilderness camping or canoeing, I am completely new to this area, so I am seeking advice from this group to maximize our experience.

First, the logistics- we are a group of 4, putting in at EP37 Kawishiwi Lake the 1st week in August for a 6 day trip. The plan so far is to do the Lady Chain and take out at Sawbill. Since we have 6 days, I am thinking to venture first to Koma or Malberg to basecamp for a couple of days before heading for the Phoebe River and completing the chain. Any advice about specific campsites, fishing, or side trips to places of interest is greatly appreciated.

If we make it Malberg or Koma the first day I am hoping to day trip to Fishdance lake to see the pictographs. This is the only side trip I have planned so far. After 2 days at either Malberg or Koma the plan is to head to Lake Phoebe. I've read good things about the quality of the campsites and fishing in this lake, so we could spend a couple days there before moving closer to the takeout at Sawbill. Can anyone comment about the quality of campsites or fishing at Grace, Ella, or Beth lakes? I am thinking to spend our last night at one of these lakes rather than trying to compete for site on Alton.

As for fishing, I am hoping to catch walleye and small mouth bass and maybe an occasional pike, although I probably won't be targeting northerns.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge and experience shared.
 
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01/28/2021 10:13AM  
Sounds like a good plan. I don't fish so no help there. I traveled from that entry point last fall and was able to skip the two portages on the river after Square Lake. There was one small beaver dam pullover on the river. There is a very large beaver dam just before Kawasachong Lake, which is more easily navigated on the west side.

The two sites I have stayed at on Malberg are #1053, the "narrows" site in the center and #1042 to the NW across from the portage to the river. Both are adequate sites with at least a couple of tent pads. #1042 is most conveniently located to visit Fishdance pictos. #1053 is elevated, sees substantial usage and the fire area is exposed with little option for tarping. #1042 has a sand beach landing and nice rock outcrop. If it rains water will be funneled straight through the fire area. Both sites will see some through traffic.

A note about Malberg. A fairly solid day's travel from the entry and if busy you can spend a lot of time and miles paddling to check out various campsites due to the shape of the lake ( a lot of shoreline). Plan accordingly.
cyclones30
distinguished member(4155)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
01/28/2021 11:16AM  
Glad you landed the one you wanted, as we thought. I have a trip report from that entry (hover over one of the icons under my username) from a few years ago in June. So that's where I'm drawing my comments from...

I like your overall plan. That said, since you're a first timer....be flexible. Portaging might take longer than you think...especially your first few. It might be windy on day one. Your goal is Malberg and that's sweet, but if you stop at Polly for night 1....no harm. Still in the BWCA and still good fishing. Debate that night among the group and if you have weather radio with next days forecast if pushing to Malberg is in play or just day trip and fish from there or start lady chain.

It took us experienced trippers about 5-6 hours in nice weather to go from the parking lot to Malberg. That means single portaging and no navigational issues. Throw in a wrong turn, some wind, and double portaging and that could turn into 7-8+ hours quickly which is very possible for a first timer. No offense, just being realistic. Which then means you're looking for a site late when many are taken. Again...that's where being flexible is key. Have goals but just be happy with whatever life throws at you.
cyclones30
distinguished member(4155)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
01/28/2021 11:38AM  
Hit the envelope under my username and send me an email if you want fishing info for the area. The Kawishiwi flows north...so it's not real noticeable but yea the beaver dam past square and portages north of Polly you'll see it. It's very noticeable by then. Cool big boulder in the rapids between Koma and Malberg.

Personally, I'd rather spend time in the lady chain than on Polly if you end up there on night one and don't push north on day 2.

If for some reason you do have a lot of time to kill on Malberg, yes the Pictos are well west of there and the fastest way is the portage on that end of the lake. However the portage on the NE arm of the lake is where the river actually flows out and has a cool rapids and canyon it dumps into. Then you could turn west and follow the river and portage around another falls and head back into Malberg on that other portage or head to the pictos.
ADKpaddler
member (21)member
  
01/29/2021 12:51PM  
Thanks guys for the advice and sharing your experience. It is much appreciated.

Cyclone, your trip report was informative and the navigational tips will be especially helpful, again, thanks. As we get closer to trip time I may take you up on your offer for specific fishing information.

What was your opinion on the sites on Koma Lake? I'm getting the impression that it might be considered more of a pass-through lake and see less camping pressure than Malberg and Polly.

If there is anyone who has done the Lady Chain, I'd love to hear your impressions and opinions of the smaller lakes around Phoebe, like Hazel, Knight, Beth, etc. I'm starting to realize that the competition for sites may be fierce and it might be good not to get my heart set on camping at Phoebe.
01/29/2021 03:30PM  
I have had the same impression of Koma. I've traveled through it on 3 trips and have only seen campers a couple of times. I have never stopped to look at any of the sites, but I did check the entry point maps here for reviews. The 3 western camps seem at least average and would probably work for you. You might want to check the reviews.
Michwall2
distinguished member(1447)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
01/29/2021 04:05PM  
We have done your itinerary at least twice. It is a lot of fun. I love the river paddling on this route.

You will need to travel efficiently to get to Malberg in one day. We always double portage, and it is doable. Keep as much as you can in packs. Reduce any single items. There are ways to reduce the time over the portage by leap frogging. Search this site for those descriptions. Finding your portage rhythm takes some time. Unloading the canoe, putting on packs and getting the canoe up on shoulders and who is carrying what. Someone must be responsible for checking each end for stray equipment (water bottles, maps, smaller packs, etc.). Then reloading canoes and getting out of each other's way is a skill. Nothing kills your momentum more than having to go back for an essential left at a portage.

There is one nice site on Koma and it is the peninsula site. Lot of space for tents and good southeastern views. We have looked at a couple of the others and each has some major flaw.

On Malberg Lake there is one nice campsite on the east side of the lake after you leave the portage. It is Just north of where the Louse River enters Malberg. The campsite on the south shore of the eastern narrows is also a nice site. (But a long ways from your path.). I would check out the western bay first.

People are reporting that the beaver pond half way through the western portage from Malberg to the River Lake has grown at least waist deep. You may need to paddle it. The end of the portage at the River Lake end can be very muddy. Just a heads up. Careful of the take out at the rapids along the River Lake. There are two take outs there and one is very close to the edge of the rapids. If you have time, the portage along the Kawishiwi River toward Alice Lake is very scenic. It is also worth your time to paddle in to Amber Lake and visit the sand beach at the first campsite.

There is a nice canyon and falls along the portage out the northeastern corner of Malberg Lake.

When we travel from Malberg back onto the Lady Lakes Chain, we usually end up on Hazel the first night. It would be a very long way from Malberg to Phoebe.

After you leave Hazel, the portage dumps you back into the Phoebe River. You paddle around the corner and come upon a rock garden. There appears to be no way through, but there has been a channel created along the north back (left hand headed east.). If you look at satellite photos you can see this channel.




We have never stayed on Phoebe before. Don't know why. Just the wrong spacing for travel. Have stayed on Grace several times. The first campsite along the south shore is ok. The peninsula site to the north of that is larger. There is one along the western shore that is a large site. It has what is best described as a "cave" in the site and that spooked us. Probably no issue, but . . .

The longer portage from Grace all the way to Beth is the better way. People describe the portages from Grace to Ella and Beth as "ankle breakers". We've never been over them. The 280rd portage has substantial ups and downs so take the breaks when they are offered.

Beth Lake has several nice campsites. (Check the maps section here for reviews.) And the water is crystal clear. Lots of smaller smb to catch here. There is a nice rock for cliff jumping on the east end, if you decide to take that risk.

The earlier the better for your crossing of Alton Lake. Before noon is better. It is the only one on your list that is very wind sensitive. You can kind of skirt along the islands on the western shore, but you eventually have to cross to the east. The shortest crossing is at the peninsulas, but you don't want to be parallel to the larger waves.

Hope you have a great trip.
01/29/2021 04:17PM  
Best site on Koma is the west peninsula. Phoebe has great sites and fishing. Grace is the best IMO further down the chain after Phoebe. Decent sites and fishing. Ella is isolated....just passed through....portages are rugged. Beth is just too darn busy for me. We came out from Phoebe to Sawbill after our last night......can be done easy.
01/29/2021 04:19PM  
My advice would be to just be flexible in your planning, and leave room in your schedule, whatever you do.

Best trips I've had we just had a general idea what we wanted to do, got our maps and shoved off. If you find a great campsite, or great fishing, you might want to stay another night. If your campsite is mosquito infested, you might want to bug out early. If the wind picks up on a larger lake, you might be wind-bound in camp for an extra day. If a flat-line storm rolls through and drops trees all through your campsite, you might want to move. If you're not too smart and you swamp your canoe in a small rapid with your 9 year old son, you might want to find the first available campsite and hang things out to dry. If there's a bear in camp problem, might want to move.

We've experienced all of the above, can't fight mother nature. The unknown is the fun part.
LetsGoFishing
distinguished member (141)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
01/29/2021 04:30PM  
I've only been through that area once, about 8 years ago. We (me and 3 out of shape/over-packed BWCA rookies) made it to Malberg in 1 day, double portaging. They were all beat by the time we got there, but we made it by mid afternoon. We stayed at narrows site #1053. It is definitely elevated. The lower tent pad when I was there was a funnel for all of the rain runoff.
I really liked the canyon portage out of the NE corner of the lake. The paddle down the river to the NW portage out of Malberg was my favorite part of the trip. I caught a bunch of fish below each of the rapids we portaged around on the river. My group was too slow moving to make it to Fishdance.

Camped on Polly the last night to get a little closer to the exit point, site 1074. We caught some nice walleye there too in the bays on the north end of the lake.

We did not do the Lady Chain.
tumblehome
distinguished member(2906)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
01/29/2021 06:15PM  
I did the lady chain last fall.

The beginning and end of your trip is busy.
The middle of the trip will be much less traveled. It's a very nice route.
Don't worry about trying to get the perfect campsites. Even crappy campsites turn into great campsites once you are settled in.
Please take some time to learn and understand leave no trace. I mean really practice it. And make sure your crew understands this before you leave.

Last year was a mess with a lot of new campers. We are still recovering from the disaster.
I am going to start really pushing wilderness ethics over the next few months. I am not saying you are one of 'those people'. I don't know you so don't take it personally.

Please leave your camp cleaner than you found it. Keep quiet. Be part of the BWCA. Thank you.

Tom
cyclones30
distinguished member(4155)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberpower member
  
01/29/2021 06:17PM  
My last thoughts? If you don't make it to Malberg, I'd just explore and fish the hell out of the lady chain. Most people do it in a day or two. Camp for a day or two on Hazel and learn that lake. Do the same for Phoebe. Pick another spot for your last night closer to Sawbill. Super short moves so you don't have to be packed up and on the water at dawn or anything. Just a nice relaxed trip and lots of fishing and exploring and sightseeing and relaxing.
ADKpaddler
member (21)member
  
01/29/2021 07:19PM  
tumblehome: "I did the lady chain last fall.


The beginning and end of your trip is busy.
The middle of the trip will be much less traveled. It's a very nice route.
Don't worry about trying to get the perfect campsites. Even crappy campsites turn into great campsites once you are settled in.
Please take some time to learn and understand leave no trace. I mean really practice it. And make sure your crew understands this before you leave.

Last year was a mess with a lot of new campers. We are still recovering from the disaster.
I am going to start really pushing wilderness ethics over the next few months. I am not saying you are one of 'those people'. I don't know you so don't take it personally.

Please leave your camp cleaner than you found it. Keep quiet. Be part of the BWCA. Thank you.


Tom

Thanks. I've never been to BWCA but I'm not new to wilderness camping. I've been practicing Leave No Trace for over 25 years.
ADKpaddler
member (21)member
  
01/29/2021 07:47PM  
Tumblehome, No need to worry about me. I'm new to BWCA but not to wilderness camping. I've been practicing Leave No Trace for over 25 years.
tumblehome
distinguished member(2906)distinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished memberdistinguished member
  
01/30/2021 06:52AM  
ADKpaddler: "Tumblehome, No need to worry about me. I'm new to BWCA but not to wilderness camping. I've been practicing Leave No Trace for over 25 years."


Love it!
Spread the word!
Tom
HistoryDoc
senior member (66)senior membersenior member
  
01/30/2021 07:29AM  
I solo'ed part of your planned route in the first week of Oct 2020. The previous posters have all given sound advice. A couple things struck me on my trip that I offer for your consideration. You are going in at one of the busiest EPs in Aug. Expect plenty of fellow travelers. In Oct, the small NFS campsite at Kawishiwi was full, mostly with RVs that were there for extended periods. I imagine it will be similar in Aug so take that into account in how you approach launch day. You are going to need some sort of shuttle between the Sawbill and Kawishiwi EPs, but I'm sure you've got that covered.
I made it up to Marlberg for a couple nights. It was pretty active although not crazy. The weather was cold and windy the whole week and I left just before predicted snow. Still plenty of people though. On the trip out I encountered a cow moose and calf on the river section.
The folks that are encouraging flexibility are providing wise counsel. Go with the flow and don't get hung up on an exacting schedule. It is a great area.
01/30/2021 06:26PM  
ADK, I have been watching this thread and have some thoughts and I just gotta put them out there. I have not been to the Lady Lakes area but I have read that it is a nice area. I have been to Malberg and the area north and west of there and I can attest to it being a great area as well. It seems to me that you might be trying to cram too much into one trip. With only 6 days you won't do justice to the Malberg area for sure if you do the Lady Lakes too.

You can get to Malberg in 6.5 to 7 hours but no shame in stopping at Polly either. Beautiful lake with good fishing. Malberg itself is worth a couple days of exploring and fishing, it is a sprawling lake with lots of bays, points, islands and narrows to fish and check out. To the west is River Lake which is really nice, several good campsites but the southern island site is a great one. Just south of there is a really good walleye fishing spot and a bit further on is the channel to Amber Lake. There is a really nice sand beach site there that would be a great place to stay and give you privacy. if you are so inclined the pictographs on Fishdance aren't all that much further and you could even get to Alice on a daytrip if you wanted to. Not to mention the Kawishiwi River heading north and the lakes beyond which are relatively remote for the BWCA. This would be an out and back trip, I have done many and it looks different on the way back, not a bad thing.

Likewise the Lady Lakes are probably worth a trip of their own. The Lady Lakes are a destination for many trips. So is Malberg and the surrounding area. You are trying to put two destination areas into one trip which is fine, just seems like you will be rushed and not have a lot of time for fishing, exploring and relaxation. On the other hand, nothing wrong with that if that is what you like. Both of those areas will be there next year if you only see one of them this year.

Some folks may disagree but after many trips I have learned to stop and smell the roses - explore each area thoroughly, leave plenty of time for just soaking in the surroundings and fishing those good looking spots because I may not be back. No matter how you do it I hope you have a great trip and keep coming back.
 
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