It's evolved over the years for me, but today i bring;

Rod - Eagle Claw Pack Rod - 4pc 7'6". I bring two of them in one rod tube. What I like about this rod is the length allows for some distance when casting from shore, it also gets the line out a little further from the canoe while trolling and breaksdown small enough to be able to pack it in the pack, so it's not lose while traveling.

Reel - I also bring two, one is a Mitchell spinning reel and Diawa Spinning reel. My Mitchell is a little nicer (can't remember the model) and is used as primary.

Line - I spool with Stren Clear Monofilimet - 6 lb.

I primarily target brook trout, lake trout and sometimes walleye.

For bass, pike, walleye, and lakers, in that order (not usually willing to put in effort and bring enough tackle to hunt lakers seriously), I'll bring two rods on a longer route, or three rods if I think we'll have more time to fish. All are one-piece rods.

The goal is to be able to troll from casting spot to casting spot, and when we get to said spot, easily reel up and switch to either a moving or topwater bait, or a finesse bait. Three rods enables this approach, but if I only bring two, then the casting rod becomes the trolling rod and I'll quickly switch baits when we arrive at a spot, or just start with the spinning rod.

* Finesse/vertical jigging (spinning) - 6'9" MLF (or MF) - 15lb braid to 8lb fluoro - 2500/3000 size reel - typically running a Ned rig, Senko, or ShadZ. Only vertically jig if trying for walleye or lakers.

* Smaller baits/topwater (spinning/casting) - 6'8" M+F - 12lb mono - 3000 size reel - typically dedicated to topwater poppers and Whopper Ploppers. Also becomes my lighter moving bait rod if I don't want to dedicate my light rod to it (i.e. #3 Mepps, 1/4oz lipless cranks).

* Trolling/big baits (casting) - 6'9" MHXF - 15lb fluoro - 150 size reel - might switch it up for braid to leader if I was trying more big baits, but I've had too many issues with knots getting caught in line guide and causing backlashes. Most of my reels seem to prefer smaller diameters and small knots if any. Usually trolling Shad Raps but haven't had success on deeper divers. When casting, usually using double bladed spinnerbaits, heavier lipless cranks, and 1/2oz swimbaits.

I bring fairly high end stuff, as it enhances the experience for me, and I take fairly good care of it, using rod socks and reel covers with gear ties to bundle the rods together whenever we're portaging. We don't fish on travel days and this makes it easier to move quickly, as well as avoid damaging the rods. I might change that up a little bit for my solo trips, but that's been the typical flow.

I use a Daiwa BG 2500 and a Fenwick HMG two piece rod with 8lb p-line floroclear now for pretty much all of my BWCA fishing. This is for smallmouth, pike, walleye, and lake trout which is pretty much all I fish for in the BWCA these days. I like just the one rod to keep the weight down (I also just bring one plano 2640 waterproof box for all of my tackle). I can't really think of a more flexible single rod setup and if I could I'd probably bring that instead. :) I also don't like to bring really spendy stuff with because the b-dub is hard on gear (especially rods) if you cover a lot of ground.

BTW I just started using the floroclear this last year and I'm really liking it. It's flexible and holds knots really well like mono, but it seems a bit more abrasion resistant and I no longer bother with putting a fluorocarbon leader on and still manage to catch walleye as if I were. Only gripe is it's still fatter than braid so getting it down to lake trout depths while trolling in the summer is difficult.