Looking for some advise on sewing which is very new to me. I recently picked up a singer 111 that is very old but seems to work OK. I'd like to use some thicker thread for outdoor gear but I'm not sure what to expect with the thicker thread. The largest needles I have are #25, after looking up a needle thread chart I should be able to use 277 thread. This should be strong thread but I'm guessing the thick thread is harder to feed through the machine. Am I asking for trouble or am I on the right track?

Any advice that I give could/might be labeled as wrong advice, simply because at this point I am trying to decide 'what works best for me'. I'm starting to believe that some ways that I've been doing this are in need of adjustment.
First, you say that your machine "seems to work ok". Some advice that I know is right, is to say - make sure that it is working properly before you get into this. If you don't know someone who is knowledgeable that can check it out, then bring it in and have it serviced. Tell them what you plan to use it for, and they will tell you if your machine will be up for the task. Get it serviced. Not knowing from the start if your machine is working properly will surely start you down the wrong path.
Most will say to only use 100% polyester thread, and that can be a correct answer, but using nylon may be better 'if your machine handles nylon thread'. I started using the polyester, then switched to nylon. I like the nylon better, but am now believing that this is where some recent issues started popping up. Mostly, the upper thread won't pull up tight, regardless of what I do - on two of my machines at once! The third one is ok, but it's an industrial machine that may be handling the nylon thread better. Is it possible that the bonded nylon thread is leaving a film on the tension discs that causes the thread to slip? I have yet to figure it out but I cleaned the disc on one with acetone and it will now at least sew with poly thread. Hmmm! This problem could also be from sewing too much silnylon. I guess that I should clean my machines in the middle of projects, as well as between projects.
Anyway, more than you wanted to hear, but obviously you did ask the right question about threads.
With all this, I will say that you should start with 100% polyester thread ONLY, then you will be off on the right path.
Size? I mostly work 1.1 oz. fabric for tarps. I have used both fine and course thread for this. Just be sure to shorten your stitch length with fine thread, and be sure to seal the seams. Sealing the seams locks all threads in place so if a stitch breaks/abrades half way down a seam, it's not going anywhere.
Always use heavier thread for heavier projects. I'm going to try narrowing down to two thread sizes, starting with T30 for tarps and T69 for packs. Again, some may say that I am completely wrong, but I have to do what works for me and my machines. Match the needle to your thread as per sizing chart. Use the needle sizing chart from the company that makes the thread.
Start with small projects and work your way up. It will be totally frustrating if things go wrong in the middle of a big project and you can't figure it out. Keep asking questions along the way.

I just looked up your machine... which I should have done from the start. Close to the same model that I have. Love the machine for extra heavy duty work, but I'm always frustrated when there's no reverse. This can be a very forgiving machine. Do a bunch of test runs with it. Appears to be an 'oil bath machine' be sure the oil is up to level and flowing.

I think I'll take your advice and have the machine serviced before I get too Involved. There's an Industrial sewing machine repair shop within driving distance that I can have it looked at. They should be able to tell me what I can expect from this machine. I've been doing small repair type jobs but nothing I've made from start to finish. I have material ordered to replace the material for an aluminum framed car camping cot.

I think we were typing at the same time. No oil bath on this one. It is an older model, I looked up the serial# on the singer site and no models were listed starting with W. Called singer for Info but was told they don't have records for machines with serial #'s starting with W. I have the operating manual that is printable on the web and it does match the machine fairly closely to the 111-115 model,as the presser foot opens up to 1/2". The earliest owner that I know of said it was used during WW 2 to sew canvas. I'm guessing he bought it after the war. That could explain the W prefix before the serial#. A lot of speculation but that's all I've been able to find out about the machine. I don't think it's a walking foot but the needle does angle forward on the down stroke returning to vertical before going up again , pulling the work through.

Have never messed with or even seen a needle feed machine before. Probably why you need such a stout needle. Post a pic when you have time.

It's at the shop, just dropped it off. I think I took it to the right place, the tech was very knowledgeable, pointing out things about the machine I had not noticed and knew right away the timing belt was ready to break. Putting a little side pressure on the belt you could here the cloth fibers breaking. It should come back in good working condition and that's a good place for me to learn how to use It.
Your right about the machine being a needle feed, that's what he called it. He did not recommend using 277 thread. Said he recommends 138 or 135, can't remember, with a 21 needle. I'll get that straight when I pick it up.

I think you made the right move. If that machine comes back in good working order, then it will likely run smoothly for a long time. There will be issues that come up in the future. At that point you can expect that A: your needle is dull, slightly bent, has a burr on the end etc. B: You need to re-thread top and bottom. C: Upper thread tension is off. D: Bobbin tension is off because you switched to a lighter or heavier thread. Bobbin tension is very touchy, but as said before, these machines are much more forgiving. My antique Singer allows me to change bobbin tension without giving me a hard time. Just make that your last call. When you pick up your machine, have the guy show you what it should be. Also have him show you where to oil it. Some spots are a given, but there might be that one spot that you miss.
A bad needle is usually the problem. Change the needle and throw the old one away. Learn what needles you will be needing and search them out on Ebay. I buy 15-20 at a time.
Good luck!

The way it was set up when I got it the upper tension was very tight and the bobbin tension was what I thought very loose. I mentioned both to the tech and he didn't seemed surprised and had a solution for both. The bobbin tension he thought was likely a groove worn in the spring tension clip. I tried to tighten it to get more tension but It made very little difference. So his diagnosis made good sense to me. The hole at the tip of the take up arm was actually grooved either from running too much tension for a long time or maybe using some type of thread that may have been abrasive. The replacement he estimated was less than $20. I have a good assortment of needles that came with the machine and I'll pick up a new spool of thread when I pick up the machine so I should be able to hit the ground running.

This machine is not much to look at to say the least. It's old, has very little black paint left on it and has the old fashioned treadle peddle that operates the drive. But I'd like to keep it running and useful. Sometimes you need something welded, sometimes you need something sewn back together.

Good to read the thread - yes, pun intend! please keep us updated - I want to know how the machine does. I started my sewing career on and old Singer treadle - great fun! That was just a "few" (hee-hee) years ago - more like almost 60 years.

I like my old Singer. It'll run through anything but unfortunately it was built for fast sewing and It's tough to slow it down. You try to get a few more stitches and it takes off on you.
Finally got tired of trying to fix the Viking on my own and brought it to the shop as well. It might be next year before I get it back. This guy sounded like he knew his stuff as well and will go through all the steps in bringing it back to life. I'll probably be ready for another project when I get it back.

Try to get a few more stitches and it takes off on you describes my situation perfectly. I watched a few you tube videos on slowing down the clutch drive on the machine. It looks like you need to make the pedal not so touchy so you can feather the clutch easier. I replaced the spring that brings the treadle back to the home position with a stiffer one to make it harder to push. Hopefully not so hard to push I get cramps trying to sew at slow speed. I'll find out when I get the machine back in about a week.

From what I've read, there is no easy way to slow them down. They're made for speed and changing adjustments on the clutch peddle just affects the initial burst of power that it needs to start sewing. At least that is the best that I can explain it. They would need a free-wheeling flywheel that spins all the time with the clutch running off that.
Check out the machines at Sailrite# and watch the video on the MC-SCR system that they use. Granted, these are new, expensive machines, but they have the same problem.

It works somewhat like a free wheeling flywheel with the motor constantly spinning at its max rpm. If you can keep the clutch from pressing hard against the spinning motor you can sew at a slower speed. Mine works a lot like the machine in this you tube video except the motor and mechanics on mine are much older.

You tube

I looked at possibly swapping out the pulley on the motor with a smaller pulley but It's already about as small as you can go.

Looking around on the web it looks like a servo motor would be a good upgrade from a clutch type motor for controlling speed. Set the speed on the dial and press the pedal for a constant steady speed. And I was really surprised to see you could get the servo motor for around $100. They have brushless motors and motors with brushes, which one has more power at low speed is something I have to figure out. The servo motor that Sailrite compares their motor to is way under powered with the guy stopping the motor with one finger. Other videos I've looked at show them sewing some heavy leather at slow speed. Could be the difference between motors with or without brushes.


Servo