Quetico from the north.
by hexnymph
Sturgeon Lake-Halliday Lake-Elizabeth Lake-Jesse Lake
We were greeted with a warm sunny day when we climbed out of our tents. The lake was smooth as glass with reflections of the surrounding landscape that were almost perfect. I ran and got my camera to take advantage of the situation and scene before me.
By the time breakfast was being made we were greeted by an overwhelming presence. The black flies were out enjoying the sun along with us. It became almost unbearable at times as we struggles to eat and pack up camp while they hammered on us. I can’t complain about it too much though, our trip had been relatively bug free besides a few ticks and one other occasion with black flies. If we hadn’t had any bugs I don’t know if I would have felt like I really put in a trip and got the full experience.
Once our canoes were out on the water the bugs subsided. We headed north to the portage to Halliday Lake. When we arrived to the portage location, as indicated on the map, we started scanning the shoreline looking for evidence of a portage. Nobody could see it. Nate and I finally paddled into an area of flooded timber and landed the canoe as close as I could figure the portage was on the map. We split up and searched for a trail when I stumbled on some poor travelers food pack. It had obviously been snatched up by a bear and ransacked the year before. All I can remember of it’s contents was an empty bottle of pancake syrup and a chewed up cooler. Nate and returned to the canoe and proceeded to guide the canoe further into the flooded timber. The others did the same and it wasn’t long before we saw evidence of a portage in the form of a floating log bridge. I imagine with normal water levels the landing of the portage would be easier to see but with the current conditions the trail wasn’t recognizable till we floated about 25 yards into the timber.
This portage was a grueling hike for us. It isn’t all that long, being 191 rods, but there wasn’t much solid ground. When there was it was basically walking in a stream that cascaded down the hill side. The flies had discovered us again and took advantage of the situation by attacking from every direction. The heat of the day, while nice on the water, was baking us as we carried our gear over land. On a more positive note, spring was starting to green up the forest and trees right before our eyes. The leaves of trout lilies, aster, clintonia, and various other plants were starting to unfurl. Glorious spring was starting to take charge of the recently dormant landscape.
On Halliday Lake we loaded our gear as fast as we could so we could get on the water and away from the bugs. Once out there we took a break and filtered some water. A couple of us cast some spoons in search of pike but there were none to be found. We sat for a while with our canoes pulled together, resting in the sun, snacking on some trail mix, and reviewing maps to plan our day.
This day would be the day of the fishing tournament. A day to earn bragging rights over the crew. A day to talk smack against your rivals and to look at their lures too speculate which one you would most likely take. The day to win the now, highly coveted, “Vigoda Award”. This is the third annual tournament for our crew. We started doing this a few years back and it’s only getting better. The rules are pretty simple. We select a time to start and finish. Each person may enter only one fish. The longest fish wins. The species is subject to change but walleye and lake trout tend to be the main target species. The winner gets to take a lure from the tackle box of everyone involved at the end of the trip and of course, bragging rights till the next competition. Last year Chad included a ridiculous looking lure as a bonus prize. It is kind of a white, alien looking cicada crank bait. This year Mike incorporated the lure, snagged onto a piece of driftwood, and put on top of a trophy, creating the now, highly coveted RRPP&B clubs (Rod, Reel, Paddle, Portage, and Brew) “Vigoda Award”, named after Abe Vigoda or Sgt Fish on the Barney Miller show. It even includes records of who has won in the past tournaments along with the size and species of fish.
The plan was made, we would fish our way across Elizabeth Lake and travel north to Jesse Lake. After setting up camp and eating lunch we would begin the tournament that would end at dark. The paddle across Elizabeth Lake was spent trolling for fish in hopes of catching lunch. The lake is long and narrow. Several tall rock cliffs line the north and south shores. Nate and I investigated these cliffs for pictographs as we paddled before arriving at the portage to Jesse Lake.
On Jesse Lake we spent a little time fishing but more time hunting out a campsite. The first site we passed was in rough shape so we paddled on to find a better one. We ended up on an island with a little bay. The site was clear and clean and had lots of room for gear and tents. After unloading our gear we set up camp and lazed around enjoying the sun for a while before making lunch. Once all the dishes were cleaned, foodbag hung, and chores completed we geared up for the fishing tournament.
I’m not sure what direction Greg and Brian B went in but Nate and I were not far behind Chad and Mike heading west. I had initially rigged up a heavy bottom bouncer with a “laker taker” spoon trailing behind it and Nate had a Shad Rap on. Before long Nate had a fish on but it turned out to be a pike. I managed to snag bottom so I change lures and put on a Shad Rap as well. As Nate and I were exploring bays we eventually lost sight of Chad and Mike. When it seemed to me that the fishing was going to be slow, my rod bent back and I set the hook. After wrestling the fish to the boat I landed a walleye. It wasn’t huge but I put it in the boat so I didn’t turn up empty handed. Chad and Mike had all ready gotten in my head with their smack talk and with the luck they had on the trip so far, I pretty much figured one of them would win.
The weather started to turn on us. The sky turned dark and the temperature started to drop. Mist started falling from the sky and a storm was approaching. Nate and I had enough gear with us to wait it out if the weather got bad so we continued to fish.
All of the sudden Nate and I noticed a bunch of eagle soaring around the mouth of a small stream. I counted five all together. As we later found out, Chad and Mike had noticed the stream and decided to paddle up it. When they did they discovered eagles feasting on some fish that were running up the stream. I can’t recall how many eagles they scared up, but it was more than five. They described the scene as a beach littered with fish scales and bones, covered in bird crap.
Nate and I continued fishing to the very west end of the lake. We passed by a couple other canoes traveling in the opposite direction battling the wind and waves that were starting to pick up. Shortly after passing them I had another hit but missed it. Within a few more yards, Nate had a hit but missed it. We continued on to the end of the lake arriving at a portage where we got out too stretch our legs. The stream at the portage looked “fishy” so we walked along it and proceeded to catch a mess of little pike. It was starting to get a little more dismal out so Nate and I jumped back in the canoe and headed back towards camp. When we passed the area of the lake we recently had a couple hits, Nate put another walleye in the boat. It was not huge but a good eater size either way. I insisted we pass over the hole again but I didn’t have too twist Nate’s arm as he was thinking the same thing. We ended up trolling though that area about half a dozen times and always managed to catch something, walleye or pike, but my original walleye was still the biggest fish in the boat. After a while the fish slowed so we gave up on it and started back towards camp.
Once we were near camp we saw Chad and Mike still fishing so we decided to keep trolling. On the other side of our island Nate and I both picked up more walleye but they were still smaller sized fish. Since it was almost dark at this point we decided to head into camp. Before long Greg and Brian B showed up. They also had a couple walleye but it didn’t look like they ran in to any monster fish either. When Chad and Mike finally arrived we were expecting to see them pull out their stringer with the big guy hanging on it. They said they didn’t have any luck and only caught pike. We just kept waiting for them to spring it on us. They didn’t. They got skunked.. Oh, it was close between Brian B’s fish and mine but he won with an 18.25” fish.
With only 4 walleye to eat we decided to climb to the other side of the island and fish from shore to see if we could catch a couple more where Nate and I had recently had luck. Unfortunately we didn’t have any more luck and it was soon completely dark. By the time we quit fishing the approaching storm was on us. We huddled under the tarp and out of the rain as we cooked and ate dinner before retiring for the night.