Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Raven, Alice, and Insula
by TomT

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 08/06/2009
Entry Point: Snowbank Lake Only (EP 28)
Exit Point: Lake One (EP 30)  
Number of Days: 9
Group Size: 2
Day 3 of 9
Saturday, August 08, 2009

Didn’t sleep too well as it stormed most of the night. Not a lot of rain but lots of wind and thunder kept waking us up. The hammock is very comfortable. It’s calm and foggy at 7:00 AM. I make coffee and our breakfast is a Cliff bar, pound cake, and an Atkins bar. We eat on the rocks at the end of the point. It’s really a nice site with views all around the lake.


Our goal is Boulder Lake to the west and we know it will be a tough day so get going by 8:30.We cruise through Thomas and Fraser Lakes with little wind and stop at a site on Sagus Lake for lunch. Lunch is pita shells with genoa salami and thick slices of chedder cheese with dark mustard. Trail mix, beef jerky and crystal light complete the meal.


The portage trail to Roe Lake from Sagus is very overgrown. Not many people venture this way. Roe is a shallow lake and the back bay where the portage to Cap Lake is very overgrown with small lilly pads on the surface. The map says we need to go through a bog before finding the portage to Cap.

Entering the bog of no return

We enter the narrow bog channel and follow it as it winds its way back and forth. It gets very thin and we need to get out several times to pull over or go around obstacles. And this is where the trouble begins.

We reach a point where the bog trail comes to a floating forest of sorts. We arent sure if this is the start of the portage but we decide to go ahead. We take packs and make our way through a creek of sorts with deep mucky holes. I find shortcuts through the forest but it is very thick underbrush. We pop out at another open bog trail. Figure we’re on the right path and go back for the canoe which we drag and push through the hussocks. It’s a lot of work.

Once on the bog trail we find it goes nowhere. We are effectively at a standstill in the middle of God knows where. We have to retrace our steps. Back through the forest I do a faceplant in a hole that is chest deep. We are both soaking wet and caked in goo.


Once on the bog trail back into Roe Lake we take side trails where we think the portage might be and strike out. We go into the bay to the north and follow another trail that narrows but comes to a definite PORTAGE! There are no sites on Roe and we need a campsite so we follow it. It leads to another swamp where we follow another bog trail winding around and around and getting so narrow we have to pull ourselves along by grabbing the grass clumps. It is only four feet wide but still very deep.


We finally come to a mucky floating grassy area. I tell alex to wait while I find out where it goes. I’m able to walk on the spongy grass and then see footprints in the mud before coming to the portage trail at the edge of the forest. YES!

We bring all the gear across a very pretty hilly portage that is overgrown with a few trees down that need to be climbed over but it’s nothing compared to what we were just through.

We come out at a huge flat slab of rock on a lakeshore. But what lake is it? We conclude that we are off my McKenzie map to the north of Roe and must be on Raven lake in a PMA (Primitive Management Area). We don’t have a permit for this but it’s 5:00 so we set up on the rock. Our dinner is a Cliff bar, trail mix and water.

Raven Lake

We decide we need a swim to clean ourselves off. The “seagull rock” is about 50 yards out from shore. This rock is described by Bill Rom in his book Canoe Country Wilderness. This lake was a personal favorite of his when he would camp here in the 50’s and 60’s.

Before going to bed we talk about changing our route. It looks like Boulder Lake will have to wait and we decide to backtrack to Thomas Lake and go into Alice. Alex is very nervous about being this remote and reminds me to be careful. The last thing we want is to get seriously hurt in such an out of the way area.