Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Clearwater to Fowl loop
by skywalker_128

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 07/21/2005
Entry & Exit Point: Clearwater Lake (EP 62)
Number of Days: 6
Group Size: 2
Day 3 of 6
Saturday, July 23, 2005

We woke up around nine and had breakfast. For some reason we had a harsh head wind even though we were heading eastward (a strange,unfortunate phenomenon). Ally and I navigated the Moose portage (tons of bugs). The landing on the N. Fowl side of the lake was very muddy, so we searched for an alternative route. By taking the right fork near the trails end we found a much nicer put-in on a small stream that runs from Moose to N. Fowl. We loaded the canoe and make the 100ft ride to the main lake.

N. Fowl isn't very pretty when compared with the other lakes we had been on. It sort of resembled a giant lily lake, being shallow, murky, and choked with aquatic vegetation. S. Fowl is basically the same story. The wind continued to blow in our faces.

After paddling to the back of a grassy bay we found ourselves at the mouth of the royal river, or I should say one of the mouths. The river flows away from the Royal Lake in both directions and is probably not navigable on the side flowing towards S. Fowl. We couldn't find the portage trail so we waded the canoe up steam 200ft. until we found the landing. The portage was long especially at this time of the day, but at least it was completely flat.

As I set the canoe on the eastern side of a large beaver dam I was unknowingly attacked by a angry horde of leeches. Alicia was safe, since she jumped in the bow without even setting a foot in the water. I spend a lengthy fifteen minutes picking off the the little predators that were turning dark red at this point. My foot was dripping with blood, but fortunately I didn't hurt at all. These little guys must have an anesthetic they release upon contact. Still gross. Watch out they're coming for you too!! The royal river is surrounded by beautiful scenery. We snapped a couple of photos off. I could feel the improved MPG (miles per gallon of sweat). The river current was like an unseen hand pushing us along.

We made the portage to John lake, and found an excellent campsite on the south east shore. The rain started to fall as we made camp. Alicia got the fire going while I cast a line into the calm bay from the rocky ledge that is the landing of our site. I was using a topwater stickbait, and all of sudden, WHAMMY! a huge lake trout came and whacked it. Unfortunately I was unable to land it and we went without fist again. Oh well, we made too much chicken soup for us to eat, even after a long day of travel. I understand this may not seem like a "long day" to some of you, but with the headwind and portages-it all adds up.