Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Quetico Solo with/Dog through Louisa, McEwen, Falls Chain, and Emerald
by TomT

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 08/28/2013
Entry & Exit Point: Moose Lake (EP 25)
Number of Days: 11
Group Size: 1
Day 8 of 11
Wednesday, September 04, 2013



I set the alarm for 5:30 for a fast getaway. I woke up and let Luna out but crawled back in the bag for awhile because of the chill. I dozed off and woke at 6:15 startled that Luna was gone. I quickly got dressed and called her name. She came trotting up right away.

Breakfast was oatmeal with dried apples, a powerbar, and coffee. I really like this breakfast as it’s fast and there’s little mess. It’s 8:15 when we launch and another beautiful sunny day ahead.

Getting ready to load the packs. This is all my gear.



The obligatory selfie. Nope, I don’t shave during my canoe trips.



Luna basks in the sun on Bell Lake.



The wind gods took pity on my sore back by giving us a nice tailwind today. Thank you Mr. Wind god. We had a long paddle with the target being Emerald Lake. First we had the Man Chain to deal with. The lakes here are narrow with bluffs on either side.

3 portages get us into Other Man Lake and as I round the corner from the landing I see a man having his coffee on his bluff campsite. We wave hello and I continue on. A 49 rodder puts me on This Man. It’s then a long haul past beautiful islands and sheer rock walls. After a short 19 rodder brings me into No Man Lake we stop for lunch.

My lunches are basically the same everyday. You got yer salami, prevalone cheese, gorp, chocolate chip cookies, beef jerky if I feel like it and sometimes an Atkins bar or a Clif bar. I sometimes mix up crystal light lemonade or iced tea ahead of time. Hey, everything tastes good out here.

At the portage for That Man lake we run into a couple of younger guys going the same way. We chit chat a little and I find out they are brother in laws. One from Houston and the other from Knoxville. Luna has really taken a liking to them to the point where I have to tell her to leave them alone. She can bug people - even strangers, by pushing up their arm with her muzzle in the hope they will pet her. At the landing they decide to stop for their lunch and I take their picture and say I will email it to them. Neither of them brought a camera this time.

We continue and veer left where two short portages get me into Emerald Lake. Now, I’ve heard people rave about this lake for years. Apparently the water is a very green color hence the name. Supposedly there’s a fantastic site way in the back of the lake among some giant - and very old cedar trees.

We paddle down a narrow channel after the portage before entering the main lake body. Yes, I have to say the water here is different. I’ve seen green water before but it was usually a farm pond with a lot of algae. This almost feels tropical. The water is very clear and you can see white limestone reefs down in 15 feet of water and along the shores of islands. Definitely a different vibe here than any other lake I’ve been on.



We paddle down to the eastern end where I’m hoping the good site is open. I get close to where it’s supposed to be but don’t see much in the way of a campsite. Then, as I get closer I see a narrow opening. The landing is small and I pull in.



I’m amazed at this fantastic site all but hidden from view from the water. It opens up into a multi terraced old growth forest with a clear pine duff floor. A great fireplace set against a huge rock and up above this is a real nice penthouse tent pad with a great view.

I choose a real nice sheltered spot down a level from the eating area for the tent. Out in front of the fireplace it opens onto a granite porch with nice sitting rocks just above the lake. Off the left side of this is a nice swimming hole which you see pictured here.



This is the eating area which has two nice benches for seating. In this pic I’m brewing coffee in the green French press and that shiny foil looking thing to the left is a food pouch cozy which you put your freeze dried food pouch in to keep warm as it cooks and re-hydrates.



On solo trips I try to go as light as I can so there’s very little fresh food beyond the first day. It’s usually instant oatmeal or freeze dried entrees. All my food fits into a waterproof pet food vault. It’s the white plastic box in the pic to the left of my shoes drying against the log.

Luna found a nice place to nap down by the landing while I set up camp.



I eat then go for a swim before reading and writing in my journal by the water. It appears that I have the lake to myself. I will be laying over here for another day so tomorrow I’ll do some fishing and exploring.