Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

3rd Annual 4 solos trip (minus one) October 2005
by Bogwalker

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 10/07/2005
Entry & Exit Point: Missing Link Lake (EP 51)
Number of Days: 4
Group Size: 3
Day 3 of 4
Sunday, October 09, 2005 Missing Link, Snipe Lake, Cross Bay Lake, Rib Lake, Cross Bay, Snipe, Missing Link

Satch is first up and calls to me as I emerge from the Timberline 4 that Jim and I share. “First things first Brooks-I need to visit the thunderbox. Can what it is wait 5 minutes?”

“OK-Hurry up!” Satch says.

So I run up the trail and hurry back as fast as I can-so fast I never flushed. As I return Satch has a surprise to show me. Overnight we had a visitor to our campsite. The visitor decided to steal some of our hard earned water from our bucket. Little did he know that once in the bucket he could not escape and met his maker, similar to how a fly would in a pitcher plant. The mouse was taken out of the bucket by Satch and reverently placed on the kitchen rock for all to see. Pictures were taken and then he was given a burial at sea. God speed camp mouse.

The morning is very foggy and the fog is beginning to lift as we perform the service for the mouse. I like the way fog plays on the lake and the resident beaver movement across the lake with their overnight haul of wood is fun to watch in the mist and fog.

After our morning excitement we made pancakes and bacon. We were supposed to have Sturdiwheat buckwheat pancakes but my local grocer, where I have always gotten it for other trips, was all out. Guess buttermilk will have to do-at least my Vermont connection came through with 100% real Vermont Maple Syrup for on top of them. The practice I had cooking pancakes over the MSR stove in September helped as the pancakes came out much better in appearance then they had then. Sorry HP, Kevin and Ken-but at least the ones we had in September were buckwheat.

After the delicious and filling breakfast Jim, Satch and I head for the portage into Snipe again. Jim and I have decided to do a day trip into Snipe, Cross Bay and Rib Lake and back the same way. We will get to explore the east arm of Snipe, which intrigued us yesterday, as well as 2 new lakes. Satch will join us across the portage again and then spend the day on Missing Link.

Seeing this is the third time across the Snipe portage for Satch and I, we know the drill. Once past the cliff the portage goes quickly and we arrive at Snipe ready for the day. We again have our daypacks with emergency supplies and lunch so we can single portage. The day is much prettier with bright sunshine and light winds. It also seems a touch warmer than yesterday-maybe it’s just the sun.

Snipe is a nice lake and we are able to more easily navigate her today seeing it is now familiar water. We come to where we portaged out to Copper yesterday and start down the east arm. It is everything we had thought it might be. The narrow gorge like area with small bays filled with bogs, tamaracks, pitcher plants etc is a real treat. I take a look at a campsite on the south shore on the point of a small bay. The fisher map has it marked on the western point facing east-but the site is actually on the eastern point facing west. It is not a big site, but would be a great home if you were solo or with a small group. I was pleased to see a nice supply of split wood by the fire grate. My mind wandered to thoughts of an evening spent here in solitude. I enjoyed the moment.

Jim and I were taking lots of time at this end of Snipe. The surroundings were to good to rush past. We finally made it to the portage into Cross Bay Lake. The landing is a bit tougher than we had dealt with to date, but still not too bad. The portage itself was a workout but with single portaging it is not a big deal. The landing onto Cross Bay was a mucky challenge.

Our first view of Cross Bay made us smile. It was more like a river than a lake. Narrow grass, rice and reed lined waterway lead to the opening of the lake. A small beaver dam had to be shot through and pulled over and the tamaracks along the shore were starting to turn the golden color I love. I felt I was in heaven-a bog, a river and a lake all to ourselves.

Jim is a great travel partner. We both enjoy solitude so little is said during travel. We enjoy conversations at portage landings, lunch spots etc-but while on the water we leave each other to our own thoughts. We pass through Cross Bay quietly and reverently and are still amazed that we have seen no one since leaving Gunflint trail back on Friday.

As we continue our paddle Jim is first to hear the sound of a waterfall. The small intimate falls is coming into Cross Bay and easy to get near and to. We tie up our canoes to some trees and go to explore it. It is a series of stair steps that drain a river from above that flows into Cross Bay. We spend a long time here watching the water, taking pictures and enjoying the view. We feel blessed to be here, we are sad that Satch and Larry are not here to enjoy it with us. We will bring back photos and encourage them to visit in the future.

After spending quite a while enjoying the falls we decide to head for the campsite at the far end of Cross Bay and stop for lunch. We also have decided that we will walk the portage into Rib Lake but not launch our canoes. We will set foot into its water so we can say we have been there but only enjoy it from the landing.

As we approach the campsite we hear another waterfall that sounds larger than the one we just visited. It is obvious that the portage is there because of the waterfall so we decide to stop and checkout the falls before lunch. The portage landing is not to bad; the portage is a little tougher so we are glad we are only walking it. We scout for a place to get over to see the falls but there is none. We get all the way over to Rib and did not find a way to the falls. We set foot in Rib and enjoy the view before heading back. When we get back we search some more for a place to view the falls and decide they are best viewed from our canoes.

We re-launch and head to the foot of the falls. These falls drain Rib into Cross Bay so we are at the base of the falls. Jim is first there and with the narrow chute to the base we go one at a time. He sits and enjoys the falls taking pictures as I sit out in the lake waiting my turn enjoying the view. Jim finishes and now it is my turn. You can paddle right up to the base of these falls and get some nice pictures.

We enjoy the stop and eventually head for the campsite just north of the portage and falls. We are sure this is the campsite but cannot see the fire grate from the water. I try one landing and Jim tries another. Jim has chosen wisely and finds the site up on the rocks overlooking Cross Bay to the west and in earshot of the falls. I re-launch and paddle to his spot and we all admire the nice big site with pleasing surroundings and the great sounds of a waterfall in the background. We both comment how much Larry would like this campsite with its western and eastern view for both sunrises and sunsets plus it has the added bonus of the waterfall right next door. I leave Nibi’s name in a pine on the point of this campsite. I know he will be back there someday to retrieve it.

The campsite makes a great lunch spot as we sit high above the lake with our feet dangling down the rock face toward the water and the waterfall in the background. This day trip just keeps getting better and better. We linger for quite sometime enjoying our lunch and the sounds and finally decide we should get moving again. Back on Cross Bay we decide to head north to the campsite toward the Cross River EP and check it out on our way back.

We paddle passed the staircase waterfall and head north toward the small river back to the portage. Instead of turning west we go north to the campsite and check it out. Does not look like a bad campsite, but it also does not look great either. We decide to pass on getting out to explore and just check out the bog nearby and all the vegetation. From across the bay I see a large clump of pitcher plant and I go directly over to check it out. A large clump is there and the red of the plant with the brown/tan of the fall grass is striking. Jim sees me spending time at this place and comes to investigate as well. We spend sometime here and then head back to the portage.

Back through Cross Bay, the small beaver dam and the mucky portage landing. Back across the portage into Snipe and once again on Snipe Lake. I will count Snipe Lake and Cross Bay among some of my favorite BWCAW lakes ever visited. I thoroughly enjoyed my time on them. It is sad to say goodbye to them, but we must.

The portage from Snipe to Missing Link is much harder going this way. It seems like it just goes up hill the entire way and then we have the cliff to negotiate. Jim sets his canoe down first and then I come to help him across. Once Jim is across we go back to bring my Prism across. We make it fine and have yet to see Satch, but then we never set a time to meet so no surprise. As I put my canoe down I voice says something-its Satch and he is hiding in the reeds to surprise us. I did not see him and I am surprised. We comment on our days and how no one has seen anyone again today.

The day trip today was much more pleasing than yesterdays and yesterdays was awesome. The portages today although shorter were tougher, but the scenery and surroundings were better. We certainly enjoyed both day trips a lot!

We paddle Missing Link for a few more minutes and then head back for dinner. Tonight it is Hamburger Helper Potato Stroganoff with pudding for dessert. Another great meal prepared by Jim.

The evening is clear again and calm. Missing Link’s water is mirror like. I comment to Jim and Satch on how fun it would be to paddle her and Satch and Jim both say-“So why are you sitting here?” That’s all the encouragement I needed and Liberty and I are quickly out in the twilight and crescent moon enjoying the quiet. I paddle to the far end of Missing Link and turn back able to find my way by the fire Satch and Jim enjoy. By the time I return it is completely dark and Jim comes down to light the landing with his headlamp so I can see the shore and the rocks to avoid.

We spend the rest of the evening enjoying brandy and cider or cocoa and kahlua or both and watch the fire, the stars and the satellites. Tonight is our last night in the BWCAW until next paddling season. We want to enjoy every moment and we do.

Tomorrow we will get up, pack up and head home. We want to get an early start as Jim and Satch especially have long drives tomorrow. We get some packing and organizing done before we hit our beds. The beavers are starting to gnaw and drop trees across the bay as we get to bed. We will all sleep well tonight.