Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Fall exploration of the Kawishiwi triangle
by TuscaroraBorealis

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 09/30/2016
Entry & Exit Point: Farm Lake (EP 31)
Number of Days: 4
Group Size: 3
Day 3 of 4
Sunday, October 02, 2016

There are a couple of unique boulders out in the water just south of us. Today we will finally tackle the Clear Lake portage. We have NO trouble locating it! :) It has some elevation changes & muddy spots but, mostly it's about overcoming the length.

Yet again we a treated to a glorious sunny fall day. A large group passes by us as we paddle for the Eskwagama Lake portage. I hadn't previously visited this lake when I've been in this area so I wanted to check it out this trip. Also, I grew up on a lake of the same name (at least phonetically) - Esquagamah. The portage in was easy to find and the first 3/4 provided a nice undulating walk in the woods. About 20 rods from the Eskwagama end the trail becomes mushy & eventually morphs into a bog walk. For us it was no trouble and Aurora was fascinated with it. But, I could envision this being more trouble in wetter conditions. Vickie inadvertently drops her map along the trail, giving Aurora an extended opportunity to play on the spongy ground while I hike back to see if I can find it.

Eskwagama proves to be a beautiful lake, not nearly as low lying as expected. Unwittingly we stumble onto an unmarked campsite located at about 4 o'clock (if the lake were a clock). Both of us agree that it is a nice site worthy of 4 stars, and we spend some time exploring this site. Pushing on to our next portage we find the landing a little overgrown. I reason that perhaps since it is so wet here, the grass just keeps growing. The path surmounts a gradual rise then drops down to our next dilemma. There is water across the trail before it climbs again in about 10-15 rods. I put Aurora in the canoe and begin pulling it across. Eventually the water is over knee deep and I even see fish swimming by. While this is not my ideal mode of travel, I'm mostly unfazed by the experience. On the other hand, Vickie absolutely LOATHES walking through muddy sections like this and the histrionic show she puts on clearly reveals that fact. As fate would have it, somehow Vickie's camera pricelessly records the whole event for posterity. There's no video but, the audio gives a vividly clear picture as to whats going on.

No sooner do we crawl ashore than we see the trail drop back down into the water. It's here that we realize we could've avoided this whole section and just paddled up to the large beaver dam before starting the portage. I guess hind sight is 20/20. Of course this does nothing to soothe Vickie's psyche.

There are a few groups out and about as we start navigating the Kawishiwi River. We need to hop out of the canoe to pull the canoe through the rapids where the river narrows just before turning NE towards the 30 rod portage. We pull off at the campsite just before that portage to take a break. It's a very nice camp and Vickie captures a classic picture of Aurora & I. She wants us to throw rocks into the river with her & is told right after we take a picture. We dubbed it "waiting patiently".

The 30 rod portage has a decent climb over a good trail. We are able to paddle/pole right up the rapids at the next portage then opt to take the 15 rod trail before turning west to claim a campsite as our lunch spot. I had stayed on the first site, after the narrows, years ago with a friend. It had an old wooden box latrine still standing at that time & I was hoping it would be open so we could show that to Aurora. Alas, it isn't meant to be as the site is occupied. However we find the next site, just west, open so we pull off here.

An inviting, though rocky, landing guides us into this expansive site. Aurora delights in the massive boulder outcropping while Vickie prepares minestrone soup for supper. The kitchen area is open and offers little in the way of shade or shelter. There are, however, a few nice tent pads back away in the woods. As Vickie is finishing supper, I help Aurora catch a crayfish which helps keep her occupied until we are ready to leave.

It is an absolutely gorgeous, tranquil fall evening as we navigate the maze of bends, bays and fingers of the Kawishiwi River. The shimmering glow of fall colors on the mirrored water is both breath taking & invigorating. Soon we are back to familiar territory and carry across the the 210 rod portage, and the 2 subsequent shorter trails before reaching camp.

Once back in camp, Aurora and I use the last bastions of daylight to catch more crayfish & frogs. Fellow BWCA.com member 'HeavyCanoe' paddles past and we exchange hellos. After sundown, Aurora gets to throw a couple packs of color into the campfire while Vickie & I enjoy the quiet relaxation of our last night in the wilderness.

Clear Lake, Eskwagama Lake