Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

October Adventures in Paradise
by hawleycanoeguy

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 10/20/2010
Entry & Exit Point: Mudro Lake (EP 23)
Number of Days: 5
Group Size: 6
Day 2 of 5
Thursday, October 21, 2010

I got up at about 5:15 AM...I couldn't sleep as I was excited for our big day! I looked at the Weather Channel...and....YEP...for the current conditions, it said SNOW! I looked outside, and saw a light dusting on the roofs, but nothing too major. Still, it was unique. Slowly, everyone else got up out of bed. I decided to take a quick shower (I figured I'd get my money's worth, right?). We had a nice stay at the Adventure Inn! It was perfect!

We decided to go grab breakfast before hitting the water, and this ended up being one of my favorite memories of the trip. We went west into town and ate at the Northern Grounds Cafe. What a tremendous place! We all got our fill of breakfast food by the lone worker (who ran the till AND cooked the food!). It wasn't disappointing. A few other Ely locals were there as well. As I waited for my food, I enjoyed looking at the BWCA map encased in the table! My dad and I were retracing trips of year's past. This was my 11th trip to the BWCA, but only 4th since 1995 and 2nd-ever over MEA. After a trip down memory lane, we scarfed our food with ease! At around 8:30 AM, we left and headed out to Mudro.

We experienced more deja-vu on the way to Mudro...we missed the Echo Trail on CR 88...Ooops...we backtracked a few miles and later found the Echo Trail. As we went north, we noticed more and more snow on the trees and cliffs! It was sweet! I was hoping to say I'd canoed with snow on the ground. We traveled the Echo Trail for 8 miles and turned off on the Forest Service road.

After many twists and turns, we arrived at the Mudro EP parking lot! What a beautiful, peaceful area!

We got out and just took in the view! Most EP's are bustling with cars/people....we were the only ones there! I got out, and while my dad, Jeff, and Ben were getting things ready, I took a moment to sightsee. I looked out toward Pickett Lake and saw the remnants of the railroad bridge (cool). Snow capped the cliffs and trees. Chainsaw Sister's former location was interesting to ponder about. I thought it was pretty cool to see snow in the background!

We unloaded the two rigs and made a few trips down the 30-rod portage to the creek. The portage was very picturesque...the babbling brook...the snow melting off the trees...the sun beaming through the trees. It was a very easy portage. We loaded the three canoes up relatively easily. My dad and Jacob were in an old 17-foot Grumman that belongs to my uncle Roger. Ben and his son Chris were in another Grumman. Jeff and I paddled in Jeff's Bell Royalex Canoe. It would be my first voyage in a non-aluminum canoe. We took a few more photos before we left the EP. My dad, who is 56 but acts like he's 25, and I were set for another BWCA adventure!

Getting to this EP, seeing the canoe hit the water, and breathing in sub 32 degree oxygen was just heaven on Earth for me! I felt so fortunate to be there right then and there...to experience something so peaceful, beautiful, and tranquil! Our goal for the day was to arrive at the island campsite on the north end of Horse Lake. At 9:45 AM, we hit the water and hoped to get our spot early in the afternoon.

Jeff and I were the first ones to leave shore. The Pickett Creek was a bit shallow at first, but we were able to manage our way down the meandering creek. The creek is quite narrow...barely enough room for one canoe (as others have mentioned!). Luckily, we didn't meet anyone coming our way.

The scenery was downright amazing! Traveling to the east, everything on the north shore was sunny and the snow was melting. Everything on the right side was still shaded and covered with snow! Amazing sight! I took several photos while canoeing, but only a few turned out...these are of the Pickett Creek area.

The creek was amazing! After we made our way through the little beaver dam and around the rocks, we arrived at Mudro. Mudro's a nice little lake. The lone campsite on the north part of the lake isn't anything too spectacular...I wonder how much that site gets used considering how close it is to the EP...any ideas? There were many high cliffs throughout the lake...easier to see with the deciduous trees having no leaves.

By the time we crossed Mudro, what was left of the snow was gone and clear, sunny skies dominated the view above us. We arrived at our first real test of the trip...the 80-rod Sandpit Portage...boy...this was a little tricky, but it wasn't as bad as I had envisioned. The first half of it was rather tame...just a little rocky. The downhill jaunt, however, was nothing like I've ever seen! The sharp rocks..awkward slope...I was glad we came in the way we did! The part about it that concerned me the most was having all of the wet leaves on the rocks...it was a cat and mouse game as to where a guy should land his feet. We decided prior to this portage that we'd make two trips...it was probably a good idea to do so! Jeff took our canoe, and Ben and Jacob took the others. My 12-year old nephew Chris survived his first portage of 2010, too.

After a few minutes, we trudged through the portage and headed across Sandpit. Sandpit is a unique lake! There are many cliffs that line the southern shores. The lone campsite on Sandpit looked alright as we paddled past it. Jeff and I paddled to the NE end of the lake attempting to locate the portage. We saw several "logs" pushed up against the shore and standing up from the water! It was a sight to see. I assume they are from the old logging days...neat to see some historical elements of days past. After winding our way around the logs, we found the portage to Tin Can Mike...the landing was very good, and it sat adjacent to a huge cliff on the south side! We joked that it was a good thing we didn't have portages like that.

This was the easiest 160-rodder I've ever been on...flat and very scenic along the way! We decided to do this one in one swoop. Jeff spotted a grouse 20 rods into the portage, and we all were able to get a "bird's-eye" view. There was a nice boardwalk toward the end of the portage where the woods suddenly opened up to a large bog/marshy area. The landing on the TCM side was ok, but the view of the lake there was beautiful! It would be a great spot for a campsite IMO.

As we hit the water at TCM Lake at 11:45 AM or so, the skies began to cloud up at a rapid pace. The winds picked up from the SW a little, which helped us up to our next portage. Jeff came through big time when we whipped out a bag of dried cranberries and apricots! Yummy!...it's amazing what a little food can do for the spirit/soul.

TCM is another unique lake...if I would have had the time, I would have liked to explore all of the bays of this lake. The only campsite we got close to was the one closest to the portage...it looked a little too wide in the open on a point...I wouldn't call it a 5-star site.

We arrived to our final portage of the day...TCM to Horse under partly sunny skies. This 85-rodder again wasn't too strenuous. The landing was nice, and a gradual uphill climb was in order to reach the portage. We were greeted 5 rods into it by a hefty downed birch tree. Luckily, we were able to walk over it without much trouble. We double tripped this portage. On the Horse side, I found an old plastic paddle on shore. By the time the others had come to the end of the portage, the skies turned dark gray and the wind howled from the west. We had the rainjackets packed away as the forecast called for NO rain. Even with ominous-looking skies, we pressed forward.

Two minutes after shoving off, it started sleeting....REALLY HARD! It was both chaotic and exciting! "What in the world is going on?" I asked my self! All three canoes were enjoying the moment! It sleeted for a good five minutes. We talked earlier in the day about eating lunch at the second campsite on Horse Lake, so we made our way to the north....when we got there, the sleeting stopped and we were again greeted by more sunshine! We landed on shore at a little before 1 PM. Jacob and I scouted the campsite, and this one was a beauty! There are tremendous lake views to the south, east, and north. The landing on the south side is steep, but the view atop the hill is spectacular. A nice fire area was there, with plenty of space for tents and extra firewood.

We dined on PB-J sandwiches, granola bars, Twizzlers, Pringles, and summer sausage. It's funny how good PB-J tastes near a canoe in the middle of the wilderness...yet...I haven't had one at home in years! We filled our canteens with bottled water before we left, and mixed up some regular old-school Kool-Aid...yep! It was tasty. Ben and Jeff both made a cell phone call on the top right before we hit the water again. We were hoping to reach the north side of Horse to claim our site!

After lunch, we paddled north to claim a site on Horse Lake. 20 seconds after we left shore, I totally forgot to look for the logging ring that I've read so much about at that site....we paddled closely up the shore north of the landing until Jeff and I spotted it! Interesting to say the least! Throughout this first day, I really tried to envision what it must have been like logging in this area....the sounds of sawing down trees and the banter of the lumberjacks....the sights of logs amid the lakewater, the trains on the impromptu railways scattered about the wilderness....our generation may have it better than earlier generations, but one thing I do know...my ancestors knew how to get things done AND worked a heckuva lot harder than most folks nowadays do!!!

Following the logging ring, we entered the largest portion of the lake. Up to this point, we haven't seen anyone in the BWCA. We notice no canoeists anywhere on Horse Lake, either. The wind picked up with sheer intensity from the west. Veering toward the right side of the lake, whitecaps seemingly came out of nowhere and dominated the lake. Jeff and I did our best to not only prevent capsizing, but to also keep a close distance to the other two canoes! I worried about Ben and Chris as Chris, being only 12, hasn't had much experience on open water like this. In any event, we press onward. We communicate to each other that we wanted to stop/rest at the campsite near the Horse River...so...we paddle until we get there...or so we thought. Hugging the shore, we soon battled riccochetting waves bouncing off of the rocky shore on an island back to us...the sky is overcast and the wind continues to assault us.

After a few more arduous moments, we landed the canoes on a nice sandy beach that stretched for quite a distance. We get out of the canoes and explore the shoreline and beyond. After looking for 10 minutes or so, we find no evidence of a latrine or fire grate. We continue to the north...we see a make-shift fire grate with rocks and indications of a recent fire, but nothing official. We get out our McKenzie map and look at it....we realize then and there that we are still a little ways south of the site we are trying to get to...however, on the McKenzie map, I notice that even though there is no red campsite "dot" where we were, the word "campsite" was typed on the map where we were....any info on this?...

We get back into the canoes, and the wind has died down some. We go around the point and then easily spot the campsite. We get there in a matter of minutes. It's about 2:30 PM now, and after we all scope the site out, we all agree that this site would suit us just fine! What a gorgeous site! The site lies on a point extending to the west with awesome views to the south, west, and north. Red pines tower above you, and several trails lead everywhere for more sight-seeing opportunities! After we located the latrine up the hill, the clouds started to break just enough to allow spotty sunshine down to us!

Our group got busy getting to work once we made our decision. Dad, Jeff, Jacob, and Ben put up our two tents and organized them with our sleeping bags. Dad, Jacob, and I found an abundance of downed trees/branches for firewood. I spent most of the afternoon sawing smaller logs and later chopping them with our ole' hatchet (sawing and splitting give me some "alone" time, which I sometimes like). Chris tried his luck at fishing for awhile and later Ben and Jeff did, too, with no luck unfortunately. Dad, Jeff, and Ben solved our north wind problem going over the fire grate by connecting two large blue tarps between two pine trees, which provided a wind barrier for our camp. The fire grate itself was 5-star! Several rocks and large logs surrouned the grate, which allowed us to have some nice fires.

By about 5:30 with the temp in the upper 30's we were ready for some food. It was time for my dad to show off his culinary talents to the rest of the group! We left two canoes near the shore area, but one canoe is always brought up to camp to serve as our "table" for miscellaneous purposes. We find some rocks to balance it out and so it's sturdy. Mostly, the canoe serves as my dad's cabinet for meals/problem solving. Eating in the BWCA is probably my favorite part about being in camp! For supper tonight, we had spaghetti. Dad had the noodles in one pot and his pre-made sauce w/the ground beef in another. We also had some garlic bread for the occasion. Soon, we were up to our ears in spaghetti, and we feasted on it like Italian royalty! As we eat, we admire the sun setting in the west through the pines and clouds in the sky...absolutely breath-taking. Following the dishes, we look forward to spending a crisp, fall evening under the stars and full moon. Dad busts out the bag containing hot cocoa, and we begin to have our fill.

Before darkness totally hits, two things occur. First, we make out the near full moon (of if you want to be really technical...the waxing gibbous moon) rising and shining through the pine-birch forest in the east. I love full moons, especially in the BWCA. Second, we were in for a real treat. With all of us sitting around the fire, we hear at first a faint high-pitched sound. Right away, I said, "Oh...a loon! Cool." However, a few seconds later, several high-pitched noises are heard....we then realize...it's not loons...but....WOLVES! WOW...their ooooo-ing could be heard from the north-west side of Horse Lake. Where they were exactly, I have no clue. I didn't really care!...this was exciting!...I've never heard timberwolves before! After a few minutes of howling, they stopped. Excitement filled our camp, but my brother Ben was concerned at this point! Seeing this, I decided to do what most little brothers do to their older brothers...agonize them!

To make light of Ben's worries about the newly-discovered wolf pack in our area, I decided to sing and make up my own verson of Warren Zevon's classic song from yesteryear... "Werewolves of London." Zevon's song is one of my favorites...one of the few songs I know by heart. I decided, then, that my rendition would be entitled, "Werewolves of Horse Lake" of course. My first verse went something like this....

"We heard 'em howling 'round our wooded camp,

Ben said, we better not let 'em in.

Six male campers got mutulated late last night,

Werewolves of Horse Lake again."

Chorus:

"Aw-ooooo....Werewolves of Horse Lake.....Aw-oooooo"

Of course, my dad broke out in laughter, as we both sort of have that same dry humor. Thus, this was the song I would sing periodically throughout the rest of the trip! Ha ha...After a 10 minutes break, we heard the wolves howling again...this time, for an even longer time period. The howling went on and off for about an hour (7 PM- 8 PM). This was by far one of my most memorable outdoors moments of my life! After the wolves left, we could hear the faint sound of rapids from the south east.I figured it was from the portage around rapids into Fourtown Lake, which we would later take on our way out.

Chris hit the sack around 8:30 PM. For the remainder of the night, we told stories and jokes while enjoying our time in God's country, sipping our cocoa and coffee. I found out that Jeff is quite the storyteller, as I heard a couple of jokes that got me chuckling. We all seemlingly took turns tending our good-sized fire. Jacob gave me a title that stuck for the rest of the trip..."FIREBRO." We formed a FIREBRO fraternity, thus deeming ourselves captians of the campfires. Periodically, I went out to the point to the west a few times to get glimpses as the moon as it rised through the pines in the east. I looked to the west, wondering just what in the world those wolves were up to...and how far were they really away?...

As the night drew on, the temps dropped and dropped under the clear skies. At about 10:30 PM, we all decided to call it a night. Ben, Chris, and Jacob slept in Ben's 4-man tent while Dad, Jeff, and I slept in my dad's trusy 4-man Hillary tent that he's had forever! Dad put a battery lantern atop the tent to give us some light. With lows projected to be in the upper 20's, I was hoping for two things as I closed my eyes:

1. To keep warm.

2. I prayed I wouldn't have to go to the bathroom!!!!

I pinched myself as I had just lived one of my most enjoyable days of human life.its been so long since Ive been up here....you dont realize the pure, simple, good things in life until their either gone or you havent experienced them in quite some time....what a terrific day it was! The first of four full days in canoe country was a success.

~Mudro Lake, Sandpit Lake, Tin Can Mike Lake, Horse Lake