I portaged over to Knife on a long, but nicely maintained portage.

I spoke to a couple of college-aged kids as I arrived at the cool waters of Knife and lowered my canoe into the water. I pointed out Dorothy’s Island across the way, but it wasn’t evident that they had any idea of I was talking about.

Dead for just over 20 years and already her legend is fading into the mists of time.

I paddled up Knife aiming for the magical Kingdom of the South Arm. I stopped for lunch at the same campsite that I had occupied with several friends in May – what had been green, lush and abloom in May was now hot, sunny and dry. And it still didn’t have a decent tent pad!

I paddled on past the burn of last fall on the Southern shore Eat of the portage to Bonnie – it was great to see how quickly it was greening up as vegetation reclaims the thin soil, ash and rock.

I trolled a floating silver and black floating Rap and kept busy catching and releasing Bass (including several over 2 pounds) and small Northerns as I paddled West hugging the southern shore.

The miles go quickly on Knife when the water is calm.

I reached the South Arm and aimed at a campsite that had been recommended to me as a great place – only to see that it was occupied. The occupants were out, but as I paddled by I noticed a 2 gallon red plastic gas can on the shore. Odd – but I thought perhaps they were using it for water.

I paddled across the bay and found a nice island site. I unloaded the canoe and again started the ritual of setting up a solo camp.

(Note - the fallen and rotting birch logs were left by a previous camper. These are seldom worth a darn as firewood, after the resin rich bark is burned. I prefer to gather shore wood - often washed off of beaver dams - for firewood. Perfectly seasoned and easily split, this makes for a far better fire.) I reclined back on my new Crazy Creek lounger – very comfortable for lounging – and was reading when I heard a motor. I at first thought it might be the Forest Service plane – but no… the occupants of the campsite across the bay were powering past with a 5 hp engine attached to their canoe!?!

Their gas can had indeed been for gas.

I think they had figured out the schedule for the Forest Service planes and flouted the rules and ethics of the area with abandon. If I’d had a Satellite phone I would have called in and dropped a dime on them.

As the shadows got longer I paddled over the Eddy Falls. The northern shore of the South Arm looks like something out of a Dr. Seuss book – sculpted hills, many with their South ends clipped off by the most recently passing glacier.

At Eddy Falls – clearly audible as you approach – there were several other canoes with their occupants trying their fishing luck. None of us seemed to have what these fish wanted. The calm winds and approaching evening encouraged me to try different complex rigs, but apart from some small bass, dinner was not being served.