Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

A solo new beginning
by TuscaroraBorealis

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 05/21/2019
Entry Point: Snowbank Lake (EP 27)
Exit Point: Lake One (EP 30)  
Number of Days: 10
Group Size: 1
Day 9 of 10
Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Awake to another sunny morning. Everything got a chance to air out yesterday so I am able to pack away everything dry (which I always enjoy). Alice is not quite in mirror form but, it is close enough that I decide to cut across the open expanse, and heart, of this large body of water. As if on cue, once I reach the Kawishiwi river, a gentle cooling breeze kicks up. While yesterday was a glorious day that I am still savoring, I am not so far removed from the harsh memories of the near week long cold & rainy stretch as to not fully appreciate even the subtlest weather related blessings I am receiving today.

The occasional cluster of various waterfowl keeps me company as I paddle the river up to the Insula portage. The 10 rod portage is a welcome change of pace, giving me the opportunity to get out of the canoe for a bit. Once back on the water, it's impossible not to notice the large swaths of pollen on the surface of the lake. It has been a number of years since I've been on Insula and I've forgotten just how spread out it is. For the first time this trip I am running across, or seeing, other people on a fairly regular basis. I pull off to rest at a island campsite that is situated right on the Pagami fire line. It's certainly an interesting spot to contemplate the juxtaposition of the drastically different forest ecologies. Also, it is home to a unique looking boulder.

All in all the forest is coming back slow but sure. Still, the landscape does still seem to have an aura of desolation yet. Soon I find that I am following a canoe with a group of 3 to the Hudson portage. Before heading down the trail we introduce ourselves and exchange stories keeping each other company as we trek across this fairly tough portage. Each end of this path has a pretty decent climb/descent. However, because of the fire, there is still a pretty good overlook of both Insula and Hudson Lakes just before the corresponding descents down on either end of this portage.

The scenery doesn't improve much from Hudson to Lake Four. However there are a few short portages and one scenic little rapids that help break things up. For the most part these portages are all short, level and don't pose any real technical difficulty. But, they are clustered fairly close together and some of the landings are a bit cumbersome. Once out of Lake Four I can't help but notice the wind has picked up which starts me thinking about claiming my next campsite. Initially my goal was one of the sites near the narrows of Lake Two & Three but, I'm not sure I'm up for battling across a whipped up Lake Three. As I put Lake Four behind me I pull ashore before entering the main body of Lake Three and immediately notice that all the nearby campsites appear to be occupied. While laying out of the wind on a gently sloping rock face I gnaw on a Clif bar while I recharge for my upcoming traverse.

Once I begin my crossing, I'm surprised by seeing a few people actually out fishing amidst the pushy waves. I keep fairly close to the north shore of the lake aiming for the cluster of islands to the west of my current position. From there I am able to duck and dodge out of the wind and, as I approach the narrows into Lake Two, I see that my target site; the large peninsula camp, is unoccupied and I joyously pull in.

After unloading, I Thank God for blessing me with this camp. This makes it a perfect 5 for 5 of targeted sites on this trip! I was realistically hoping to get 2 or 3 of them. This site is a sprawling monstrosity with just enough trees to provide a small measure of privacy, yet great views and access to the lake. There are several tent pads and trails for exploration. On the down side, the fire grate isn't the best and is exposed and there is a cluster of campsites in this immediate area. Still it's a very accommodating site.

I am running out of options for supper and just put together a mish mash of my remaining rice & noodles. However, I do have a cheesecake camp chow dessert that tops my meal off quite nicely. Afterwards, I am pretty well exhausted but, I do find the energy to hike the nearby trails and do some shore fishing. Wanting to get an early start tomorrow I turn in early. No campfire tonight; sleep comes easy.

~Alice Lake, Insula, Lake, Hudson Lake, Four, Lake, Three, Lake