Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Hanging out north of the South Arm
by TuscaroraBorealis

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 05/18/2020
Entry & Exit Point: Saganaga Lake (EP 55)
Number of Days: 11
Group Size: 1
Day 5 of 11
Friday, May 22, 2020

I am awoken by the briefest of rain showers this morning. By the time I crawl out of the tent nothing is wet or even shows signs that there was some precipitation. It seems about all that it did was increase the humidity in the air. It remains cloudy but, the weather radio says there is no threat of rain or storms today, so I plan on heading out.

There are a few canoes out on Amoeber fishing as I push off from camp. Soon, I have a line in the water myself. I paddle west and enter the southern bay where the 83-rod portage to Knife lake is located. Suddenly, my rod is jerked back. Fish on! I am treated to an epic battle with a chunky lake trout. I get him up a few different times and get a look at him but, as soon as I do, he tears off on another run making my reel sound like a chainsaw. Finally, I can see I am wearing him down some. I do not have a net so, getting him into the canoe is a comedy of errors. He is too thick shouldered to just grab behind the head and my rapala, while hooked good, is not hooked in the most convenient place to grab him, and there’s no way I’m going to muscle him. I don’t want to wear him down any more than I already have so I just reach into his mouth and get a good hold. I end up with a few teeth marks on my fingers, but I do get him in, unhook him and get him back in the water reasonably quickly. Thankfully, after a few seconds of doing a barrel float he turns tail and dives back to the bottom. He wasn’t all that long but, he was incredibly thick. I estimate he went over 6 pounds. What an exhilarating experience bringing him in, and I’m glad I didn’t stress him out too much.

The portage into Knife is just ahead so I paddle up and get out. This is a boulder filled landing. It appears someone had camped, or at least had a fire here, as there is a makeshift fire ring with charred remnants and a fair amount of sawed and split firewood just off the trail. I make a note of it and move on down the portage. This one climbs up and then drops down even steeper on the other side. It’s a pretty good workout and the landing on the other end is inconveniently sloped down to the water’s edge. Paddling south through the narrow waterway I encounter several different people out on the water fishing/exploring etc. The amount of people I have seen the past couple of days is the most I’ve ever encountered on a BWCA trip in mid/late May.

I exchange waves and hellos moving onto the 39-rod portage that leads to the South Arm of Knife Lake. Nothing severe, however, it does climb a bit before dropping back down to the doorstep of campsite #2138.

The South Arm is a stunning site to behold, as its pristine paddling conditions for the 3rd day in a row. As I exit the sheltered protection of the nearby islands even the vast expanse of open water leading east is literally a mirror. Cutting across the heart of open water I have a moment of what I can only describe as vertigo. It is a cloudy day and, of course, the clouds are reflecting beautifully off the surface of the lake. Being solo, paddling across this heavenly scene, I feel like I am truly floating in the clouds. For a moment I lose myself and have an experience of vertigo (or something of the like) and have the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. I need to look down at the wake I’m creating to regain my bearings. What a breathtaking, awesome experience!

The portage to Sema is tucked away in a back bay which provides a smooth, almost beach like landing. A short distance after getting started there begins a long succession of little mud holes as the trail slightly climbs as it seems to be following what appears to be a tiny brook. The mud isn’t to deep but, it does cause me to slip on some of the boulders that are strewn along the way. I would think this could be a haven for mosquitos, as well, later in the year. About 2/3 of the way to Sema the trail dries out and becomes a pretty decent trail that terminates at the nice pebble beach on Sema.

Sema is a small but very scenic lake. The high rolling, richly forested, hills around the South Arm provides a magnificent backdrop. I have fun paddling around the lake picking up some very cooperative eater sized lake trout. I also check out the campsite, which is nothing to write home about. It appears there are a few other spots on the lake that would serve as a better location. Still, I enjoy the time I spend here immensely.

The portage out of the NW corner climbs up a short distance before dropping steeply down to the beaver pond where there is a mushy landing. The scenery here makes me feel like I just entered a whole different world. I guess in a way I have. Coming from the heavily forested shores of Sema to the mostly barren and open hillsides of the beaver pond is quite the contrast. After a hard left I am soon onto the next portage. There is a helpful log here to help with the landing. The trail climbs up fairly steeply but, fortunately, its only a short jaunt to paddle able water. There is an interesting animal skull here that catches my eye as I complete the portage. Next, there is a good-sized beaver dam that, since I’m not fully loaded with packs, I am able to pull over. Finally, I have a little trouble locating the next portage. I stop and listen, and then follow my ears to the running water. There I find the hidden portage into Spoon Lake. It’s a boulder filled but, most level, trail.

I have much the same sensation I had when leaving Sema into the beaver pond as I re-enter another beautifully forested narrow lake. Spoon Lake is a narrow and clear body of water. There is someone camped at the NE site but, the next few are unoccupied, and I decide to pull off at the last one before the lake broadens out on the western end.

It’s situated in a small bay with a great view of the island studded main body of the lake. The fire grate and kitchen area are exposed but, there are a few decent tent pads back behind camp. I grab a Clif bar snack and lazily lounge about before continuing my journey.

I encounter a group of 3 women just finishing the portage into Spoon from Bonnie as I pull up. The portages from here back to the South Arm are about as nice as one could hope for. Well worn and mostly level and I make quick work of them.

Upon returning to the South Arm, I once again begin encountering several other canoes out and about. I round the horn and find the landing to Thunder Point. I pull off and take the steep hike up to the top. It has been 8 years since I’ve been here last; Aurora was just a baby during that visit. I take some time to quietly reflect and reminisce on that trip and my life in general, thanking my Creator for how blessed an existence I’ve led.

Back down to the water’s edge, just before pushing off, there is a group of 4 young men just pulling up. We converse and find out we’re all camped on Amoeber. After trading stories of our experiences thus far; we part ways. It’s nothing crazy and it’s mostly at my back but, For the first time this trip, there is a noticeable wind pushing across the lake. It’s something of a Godsend as the cooling breeze takes the edge off the humid air.

I take the second eastern bay with the large island back to the 83-rod Amoeber portage. Once on the other side, with no more portages, I load up the Black Pearl with the cut and split firewood left here and bring it back to camp. I don’t even plan on using it tonight but figure someone should be able to take advantage of it and, having it at a camp will better insure that happens.

~Amoeber Lake, South Arm Knife Lake, Sema Lake, Spoon Lake, Bonnie Lake