We had a busy day yesterday so; the sounds and smells of bacon cooking are finally what entices Aurora out of the tent this morning. The bacon is complimented with apple cinnamon oatmeal and a cinnamon raisin bagel. It’s another picture post card morning and, as we finish breakfast, I run down the day’s itinerary for Aurora; of which the primary objective is to head for the sandy beach on North Lake.

Of course, to get there, we need to use Stairway portage and pass by the waterfall yet again. After lingering for a little while I assure Aurora that we will stop and spend some extended time here again on the return trip.

Aurora wants to check out the campsite just out from the falls on Rose Lake. The landing isn’t all that convenient but, it does have a cool stone staircase running up to camp. And, shoreline explorations are certainly enticing. I spent a few days here a several years ago and the site is a near 4-star site; pretty much as I remember it.

Back on the water, and shortly after entering the narrow western arm of Rose; Aurora demands I pull off to a little alcove where there’s a preponderance of skipping rocks along the shoreline. We are obliged to spend the next half hour searching for and then skipping the vast assortment of flat stones located here.

After climbing back aboard the Black Pearl and pushing off, Aurora notices she has a tiny leech attached to her ankle. She’s a little panicked but is able to remove it without any assistance or having to go back ashore. I chalk it up as a good confidence builder for her. i.e. what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger.

I have always felt that when I’ve traveled this western arm of Rose Lake that it feels like I’m paddling through thick molasses and progress seems painfully slow. I think the rationale for this is that I’m not usually closely following the shoreline and I’m paddling from point to point, so progress isn’t easily measured. Of course, (while very impressive), having the same looming cliffs overshadow the lake makes it seem like I’m not getting anywhere either. In an effort to take my mind off the seeming drudgery, I inform Aurora that, if all goes well tomorrow, she will be looking over the lakes from the top of that towering escarpment. Awestruck and bemused, she asks, “How will we get up there?!?”

Finally, we pull into the Rat Lake portage; portage la marte, as the voyageurs called it. This isn’t much of a portage (4 rods) and amounts to a glorified lift over. However, there is a campsite that shares the landing(s). It’s not a horrible site and has a couple of decent tent pads but, as mentioned it is right on top of the portage. A good emergency site. There's a nice patch of ripe raspberries here, and we both spend some extra time indulging ourselves with this juicy wilderness treat.

Rat Lake is small, and the next portage (portage les perches) is easily located. This is a straightforward 65 rod portage that climbs a little to South Lake. Flies are bothersome along this trail, especially for Aurora, and they continue to be so out on South Lake. Eventually we pull into site #606 on the south shore and pull out the bug spray again. That combined with increasing winds seems to mostly alleviate the problem. However, it’s beginning to cloud up and there’s some chop on the lake as we cut across to Height of Land portage but, we arrive no worse for wear.

Height of Land portage (portage du hauteur des terres) is perhaps the most historically significant portage in the BWCA. This is where the Voyageurs would initiate new members into their brotherhood. It is also where the waters east of this point of land run east, and the waters west of this point of land run west. After considering the historical and geographic noteworthiness of this portage, the trail itself is quite ordinary. The landing on the South Lake end is boulder filled but, swampy as Aurora continues her assault on the local frog population. The 80-rod trail is flat and there is even an extensive stretch of boardwalk along the way before the trail dips down to the sandy beach on North Lake.

Aurora nicely bookends the portage by capturing a huge toad on the North Lake end but, quickly releases it after gazing upon the beautiful sandy beach. She also takes some time and stretches here legs out across the portage trail and announces, “I’m in 2 countries at the same time!” We spend the next couple of hours playing in the sand, searching for cool rocks, swimming in the shallow water and just lounging in carefree comfort.

After our refreshing time at the beach we pull into South Lake campsite #605 (which is a stone’s throw from the portage). Here, I tell Aurora to break off a small cedar sprig so we can dip it into the lake. I explain the significance of Height of Land portage and the colorful Voyageur history associated with it. Having thus completed the portage, I now christen her a true Voyageur by sprinkling water over her head with the cedar sprig. She returns the favor. We do, however, forego the shot of rum that was also associated with the ritual. :)

Back on South Lake, the clouds are breaking up and the sun returns as we are blessed with excellent paddling conditions for our return voyage across this sprawling body of water. Camp #2064 situated on the extreme eastern end of South is currently unoccupied and looks to be an inviting rest spot on this scenic end of the lake.

It’s a pretty tough climb up to camp but the fire grate area and log seating are top notch and there are 2 exquisite tent pads with room for several more. There’s a spur trail to/from the portage so unwelcome visitors may unwittingly stumble through. Being elevated like it is, the site provides a beautiful overlook of the isthmus and scenic eastern end of South Lake. Aurora points out a chain that has grown into a tree just outside the main kitchen area. It’s not heavy enough to be for logging but, it’s overkill to be for a stringer. We ponder what it may have been used for.

Eventually, we make it back to Stairway portage and; (after dropping the Black Pearl and our day pack off at the Duncan end) as promised, we take some time to yet again enjoy this magical area as we are refreshed and soothed by the cooling waters. Washing away the sweat & grime of the day.

Back in camp, after a hearty hamburger and potato supper, Aurora notices our local busy beaver hauling some fresh branches to his hut. It’s a gorgeous evening but, unfortunately our site isn’t situated for viewing a sunset but, the channel does offer a mirrored view of the illumined opposite shoreline forest. Still, we’re happy to be back in camp after a long but, rewarding, day.

~Duncan Lake, Rose Lake, Rat Lake, South Lake, North Lake