Friday: Up at 6 AM today as we all want to break camp early and get on our separate ways. The blueberry pancakes tasted so good!

The group of eight loons came up close by right after breakfast, as Smokey was doing the dishes. It is unusual to see a group so large that stay together.

Ray, Sue, Smokey and Keelee pushed off at 8:15 and we headed in the opposite direction at about 8:25. It seems quiet to be off on our own, but we soon settle into our own thoughts. The silences up here are never oppressive or awkward--just natural.

DAY FIVE: SUE, DEPARTURE AND CONCLUSION

Paddled 16 1/2 miles. Knowing that we had a 16 mile paddle for this day, we all got up at 6 AM. We would be separating from Neil and Lynda this morning, and I really hated to have to part. We've enjoyed each others' company tremendously.

Lynda whomped up some delightful blueberry pancakes using the berries we picked yesterday on Kekekabic. Mmmm. . .did they ever taste good!

We all moved fast and efficiently. A camping rhythm has developed and it's almost a shame to end the trip just when we are becoming so comfortable with wilderness life. Anyway, 8:15 was departure time. Ray, Smokey, Keelee and I pulled away from the campsite on Knife, leaving Neil and Lynda to go their separate ways for five more days. We wished them well.

Ever since we saw Dorothy Molter on "Real People" last winter I dreamed of meeting her. After all these summers in the north country, it was finally time. Seems that everyone who paddles through Knife stops to see Dorothy and have some of her homemade root beer (Neil and Lynda had done that in 1974) and now it was our time. Her place came upon us sooner than we expected: a hodgepodge of tents, cabins, and sheds. Old boats filled with flowers, log landing areas, and many, many bird feeders. Dorothy has thoroughly made herself at home on this tiny island. Literally, she has filled every crevice with odds and ends, and treasures that other paddlers have brought her. She has a fence around her flower bed made up of canoe paddles from many people and camp groups passing through. I found the one I made [Sue is an artist] for Camp Easton back in 1972. It still looked good.

Dorothy herself was a sweet, friendly, unassuming person. Small but strong. She takes her fame and her thousands of visitors in stride, and is totally content. She has a wash basin and mirror outside her front door, and her tent/cabin (summer home) has all sorts of tools, paddles, and paraphernalia hanging on it, or leaning against it.

[What follows is a very long description of buying some of Dorothy's Christmas ornaments. I will leave that out of this report.]

We each had some of her root beer and I asked if I could take her picture. She asked me if my camera was insured. I took a very nice portait of her. The last picture on my roll of film.

Time is slipping by and we must hit the water. I chat just a little longer with Dorothy about her guest book. 2000 visitors for July! She walked us back to the canoe. We thanked her profusely, wished her well, and finally shoved off.

Now a long paddle awaited Smokey and Ray. A long sit for Keelee and me. We ran one set of rapids and half of another before I got out and let the guys finish up on one. The canoe got stuck on a rock and both guys had to get out and push. They made it through after a fashion. We portaged around another set that some guys were trying to walk through. Sounded like they were having trouble pulling their canoes through the rapids and we were glad we didn't try it.

Finally at 3;15 we landed at the Moose Lake public landing. Poor Smokey was greeted with a flat tire. But eventually we got into town and devoured a Sir G's pizza.

Smokey left for Ottertail Lake soon after we ate. Such a funny, sweet guy. We surely do enjoy him.

We headed for home to relax and savor the memories. Wonderful canoe trip--I'd give it a "10".

CANOE TRIP CONTINUED, PART TWO: LYNDA

On our way alone, headed out to new territory for us. Our attention was drawn to an island in the South Arm of Knife covered with tall dead trees. At first we thought it had burned, but on closer inspection there was no blackening of the wood. A mystery.

It is sunny but overcast--sort of a cloudy glare. The portage into Eddy Lake is just as I had remembered: steep and dark, with a really lovely waterfall

At the end of the portage to Jean Lake we met a couple who had dire warnings of quicksand [?] on our proposed route, as well as a "family" of three bears on the portage to Pan Lake (who lay in wait to rip off food packs.) We may decide to change our route.

We ate our lunch at a nice (but buggy) campsite on the south shore of Lake Jean. A bold piney squirrel kept us company. The air had turned muggy and close, and for some reason I was very uncomfortable there--almost a sense of foreboding (as if something was dying.)

After we portaged into Annie Lake I felt my depression was explained. There is a large beaver dam and the water level is raised several feet. Annie is completely ringed with reddish-brown dead pines, the water is dark brown, and it's really a sad place. I could hardly wait to get out! (No photo.)

There is some disagreement as to the length of the portage to Mueller Lake (80 rods on the map and 140 rods on the portage sign--anyone remember portage signs???) but it is definitely a steep climb! It got my heart pumping!

I took the long trail, 100 rods, on the portage to Agamok Lake but Neil took the canoe over the three shorter ones with ponds. As I was picking berries and photographing the rapids by the last pond, he picked me up to take me back for a "view". There is a footbridge for the Kekekabic Trail over a gorgeous rapids--a real sight to see. We would have missed one of the best spots of the trip if we'd just taken the long portage.

We'd hoped to camp on the south shore of Gabimichigami Lake, as the view is lovely, but all of the sites were taken. We ended up on the southeast point of the large island in the southernmost part of the lake, looking across to a sheer rock cliff. An OK campsite but not spectacular. Not very sheltered.

Stopped about 3:30. It was a fairly long day with 7 portages and we are tired! For supper: Mountain House Lasagna, peas, chocolate cake, and coffee. The reflector oven worked beautifully!

Neil had a hard time hanging the food pack, as there were no trees of any size. Finally he stood in the canoe and got it hung out over the water. That came back to haunt us later on.

There are huge "mushrooms" on the biffy trail. 10+ inches in diameter.

Neil was up at 2 AM with an insulin reaction. That left me to get the food down off the rock, as I had to drop the pack into the canoe. He was no help, and I was pretty scared. He needs to eat more, cut back on his insulin dosage, and be careful to get protein and enough carbs.