Thursday, May 28, 2020

Woke up and put on some water for coffee. It rained a couple rain drops last night. I opted not to put up the rain fly, so good thing it was no more than that! With adrenaline and caffeine coursing through our veins in anticipation of the PMA (pristine management area) today, we pack up quickly and head to the portage to Gull.

This portage seemed fairly long, which I was surprised about given it was much shorter than our portage yesterday. But when we reached the end, we found the most glorious landing, perfect for jumping into the lake. So even though it was morning and we had a long day ahead of us, we just couldn't resist. We all took the opportunity to jump in and then headed on our way again.

We saw a tent in the distance, the first sight of other people since we’ve started. We had a bit of trouble finding the portage to Mudhole. I can’t remember why exactly except that we found ourselves in the campsite just to the west of the portage, but we do eventually find the portage. Through Mudhole and into Thunder. On Thunder we ended up paddling right next to another couple who had left their campsite on Thunder to do some fishing in Beartrap. They had been there for a week and were set to leave soon. We portaged one after the other into Beartrap and found ourselves fighting the west wind across the lake. The lone campsite was open as we passed by it. This campsite seems like it would be great to stay at, it seemed so remote! We easily located our first ‘unmaintained’ portage to the Beartrap River.

Here we go! About to start our first PMA portage. Since this was our first one, we decide to double portage for the first time this trip. We’ll take packs first, then come back for the canoes. Yes, the trail was overgrown and rougher than the other portages, but really not bad at all. We eventually emerge to a breathtaking view of the Beartrap River.

We make the trek back, grab our canoes, and walk the portage a third time. We take a quick lunch break on the other side and as we’re about to put our canoes in the river, we discover one of the life jackets is missing! Uh-oh, we assume the jacket is at the other landing, which means someone will have to triple portage. Not wanting someone to be alone, Tim and Kyle both go back for the jacket while Craig and I hang out and prepare the canoes for departure as much as possible. They arrive back quicker than expected, and reveal that they found it hanging from a branch about 2/3 of the way back. At least they didn’t have to go all the way back!

So we push off, and here we are! Paddling in a PMA! It was really cool paddling this really narrow, windy river.

After a couple minutes, it joined Spring Creek and got much wider. Still reveling being in a PMA, the paddle went quickly and in no time we made it to the portage alongside the river. As is our new process in the PMA, we scout out the potential trail a little ways before beginning. The first trail only went 50 feet or so, past the first set of rapids. But my pre-trip research had indicated a longer portage. So we looked for a different trail, and found one a little farther back from the first set of rapids.

This portage was very overgrown and very narrow. I do remember one particular part where I had to jump over a pothole puddle about 2 feet wide between two shrubs. This portage was much more difficult than the first from Beartrap Lake.

Beartrap River looking south from the portage:

Beartrap River rapids:

Rocks continued to litter the river, and we were required to get out and line the canoe a few times.

But then we reached the last winding part before Sunday Lake, full of beaver dams and oxbows. There were probably 10-15 beaver dams in this section of the river. It was really fun to paddle, and I’m honestly shocked we didn’t see a moose--it looked incredibly moosey!

By this time, morale in the group was getting a little low and so we were all incredibly relieved to arrive at Sunday Lake. Sunday Lake was nothing spectacular--pretty much your average BWCA lake. When we first got to the site, nobody wanted to say it, but we were… disappointed. We worked our butts off and the campsite was decidedly a 2-star campsite. In my research before the trip, I didn’t find much about this campsite, so it was probably built up in my mind. There was barely 1 tent pad, slightly slanted. The site was low, right on the water, unprotected, and pretty small.

Sunday Lake campsite:

Being that it was in a PMA, there was no firegrate or latrine. However, there is a giant boulder right on the water that actually serves as a very nice firepit.

We got camp set up, feeling pretty tired. After I got done, I had pulled no less than 10 ticks off my body. By this time it had gotten pretty chilly. Tim and I decided to go for a quick swim anyway. It was freezing cold, but worth it!

I had really wanted to scope out the old portage from Sunday Lake to Sunday Bay of Crooked Lake. Unfortunately, with how long the travel day was, I never got a chance to do so. I think it would be really fun to find that old trail.

Dinner was salmon, asparagus, avocado, and biscuits. We made biscuits in the Jello Mold Oven which I obviously learned on this site--the biscuits were a huge hit! It was the first time I’d ever used the JMO.

Since it was chilly and we were tired, we quickly went to bed. Our first night sleeping in a PMA. It rained for just a few minutes overnight again, but it worked out just fine.

Today's route:

~Home Lake, Gull Lake, Mudhole Lake, Thunder Lake, Beartrap Lake, Sunday Lake