Day 16 Tuesday August 30 “Winded in”

We woke up to bright sunshine and gale force winds from the NW driving wind and whitecaps onto our granite front yard and on through camp. We moved our kitchen back into the forest onto the “back forty” feeling lucky that by happenstance this camp would allow it. Huddling behind some trees we nibbled on pumpkin bread sipping our coffee and easily determined there would be no paddling today. We spent the next bit of time reading and lounging in the sunshine out of the wind. About 1100am with the wind still building and not a cloud in the sky, the wind blew our tent flat. Luckily it wasn’t damaged, so we popped it back up, secured ALL the guy lines, and added more rocks to the perimeter. Six crossword puzzles and a nap later we were having a late lunch of tuna melts on torts when we noticed the strongest gusts were actually lifting the tree roots systems from the granite in the area of both our canoe and tent.

Yikes, that moved us into action! First, we relocated and tightly secured our boat to a nearby blowdown and then moved our tent back into the forest onto the middle of a large ledge. We figured that would surely compel the wind gods to quell the gale but nope, it raged on proving relentless throughout the day.

Figuring this wind day had put us behind schedule and to be frank, not knowing what tomorrow might bring, I inventoried our provisions and baked up a pan of brownies to supplement our treats.

“Think we’re gonna have to ration our food?” Tony wondered my way. “Probably not, but that extra dinner might come in handy, or we might have to get serious about fishing.” Well, at 600pm we had a dinner of Chicken Adobo Rice and Brownies. Feeling reassured that we had made the right decision not to launch, we went to bed with the trees creaking in the wind. “If a tree falls in the forest, you don’t want to be sleeping under it.”

Day 17 Wednesday, August 31st

16.6 Miles Portages 1)100m 2)300m 3)800m 4)170m 5)220m 6)650m

The wind blew itself out in the night, Phew. We leapt up at 5:45am while the sun was just a little glow in the east. We ate breakfast while packing up and launched into a light headwind completing the portage (100m) into Stump Lake shortly thereafter.

We cruised across Stump with an eagle circling above us and soon encountered the portage to Gault. This portage had several trees down and badly needs maintenance with larger tools than we had available, but we snuck across. Gault is a pretty lake with many islands, granite outcroppings, and submerged rocks peeking through the surface luring you to fish, but not today. We found the Gault to Flindt portage at the southern end of the bay-NOT in the swamp where the FOW maps have it marked. It is identified by a cairn on a small, steep ledge with a little camp adjacent.

The portage leaves from the back of the camp and is long but very easy. It is moose marshy on both ends but is a nice granite path through the open forest most of the way. (Yes, blueberries.) Someone flagged it with pink tape every few meters, but I can’t say why unless they use it in winter. It is very easy to follow. There were only a half a dozen trees down across the entire length-nothing major.

After crossing it twice, we paddled out onto a rockin’ and rollin’ Flindt Lake to fight both a headwind and then a side wind before successfully completing the crossing. There was one fishing boat anchored near the outpost on Flindt. From a distance the rocky islands looked like whales breaching as the waves smashed against them. Once we made the turn, we were gratefully blown down toward Flet by a gusty tailwind. Now hidden from most of the wind, we saw an otter up close and personal in the narrows and another eagle as we paddled on toward the first portage. We lunched at a marked campsite, but it was no more than a fire ring with no place to set up a tent.

Back on the Flindt River but now heading upstream, we lined up a swift then rounded a corner and came face to face with two guys launching their blue boat at the portage (170m). We exchanged stories standing in the mud next to a mossy abandoned fishing boat. Apparently, they had landed on Heathcote the day before in the wind and it was a hair-raising experience. I don’t doubt it. Carrying on our separate ways we started up the portage only to discover our vote for the “Portage Most in Need of Maintenance” of our entire journey. Lots of trees down creating obstacles, walkarounds, and some bushwhacking with an 18-foot boat on your head. Anyway, we paddled on with sticks in our hair and crossed the last 220m portage completing our loop and then retracing our steps back across the 650m portage from Day 4 to end our day at our previous slug and spider camp. We spotted a mama and immature eagle soaring our direction as we hit camp at 500pm. Camp was pitched quickly, and then we fished for an hour catching a few walleye of various sizes, keeping one for dinner. It was Walleye Corn Chowder and Honey Biscuits on the ledge by the falls. It was a satisfying but tiring day in the cooling temperatures. It felt like coming home ?

Day 18 Thursday, September 1st.

“A good day for paddling.”

17. 36 miles Portages 1) 150m 2) 36m 3) Train tracks 150m 4) Log Slide 5&6) upstream wading/lining

We got up to rabid stillness and friendly blue skies. We whipped up our last “proper breakfast” of Ova Eggs, Bacon, and pan-fried biscuits with the last of the blueberry compote.

An eagle supervised from across the channel. We launched at 900am and being 50 pounds lighter (sans rations) and in better condition, made short work of the first two portages before heading out onto Heafer Lake on calm seas.

Making good time we checked out a couple of mystery camps on Heathcote but never did find them. We had lunch on a little island among fish skeletons and in view of the deserted Flindt Landing camp, then crossed the train stairs about 130pm just missing a westbound freight train. Next, we headed south on Heathcote upstream to the Flindt River log slide, followed by the need to line up a swift as we entered the river. Retracing our steps, the river of grass was still holding plenty of water (1-4 feet) to paddle. We spooked a pair of swans (what a wingspan!) and lined the final short swift onto the final open water crossing with just enough headwind to remind us of what an awesome clear, still day we had been gifted as our last day in Wabakimi. We paddled by the honkers again and cruised silently to the takeout and the final portage back to Vista Road where our car was patiently waiting. With a last handful of blueberries, we packed it up for 2022.

“If you could pick one word to describe this trip, what would it be?”

“We’ll say it at the same time on three. One, Two, Three.”

“Accomplished.”

“Yup.”