Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Lac La Croix - The Big Lake
by 30Smoke

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 06/14/2023
Entry Point: Little Indian Sioux River (north) (EP 14)
Exit Point: Moose/Portage River (north) (EP 16)  
Number of Days: 10
Group Size: 2
Day 3 of 10
Friday, June 16, 2023 Once the sun came up, consensus was we liked this campsite, but we were going to move on, as we had decided to move each morning so we could explore the lake. We broke camp and I talked Peter into checking out the next campsite up the shore, #25, as it wasn’t too far out of our way. It is a very nice site, with a nice canopy created by the large pines and very little underbrush. This site had a beautiful view of the lake and real good canoe landing, we would have enjoyed spending the day here, but it was only noon and less than a quarter mile from the previous site.
So onward we went toward Beatty Portage and Lac La Croix. We paddled North and worked our way along the East shore taking our time and fishing. As we followed the shore, we came to a boomerang shaped peninsula with a large rock and International Boundary Marker on its top. I was positioning myself to get a good picture when Peter said, “Hurry up, there is a bear.” I did not get a picture of the marker from close up, or the bear. It ran from the end of the peninsula back to the mainland woods and disappeared before I got to see it. Peter followed it, and got to see it running along shore three times. I thought I might have seen it at the end, but it was just a dark opening in the brush on shore. I did get to hear it huff at us though, if that counts for anything? Next stop was a short paddle from there to Campsite #21. Nice sand beach and would be a nice site, except for all the motorboat traffic that goes by in the channel. After stretching and a quick snack, we headed for Beatty’s Portage. This portage is quite flat, but it took the wind out of my sails again, just like Devil’s Cascade. I got my stuff across and Peter was out fishing. Just as I got in the canoe, I overheard a call that a boat was incoming. I got video of the Zup’s boat using the tram, then as it was clearing the landing, a different boat from Anderson’s Outfitters was going back to Crane Lake, in the other direction. I can only assume a bad day for the passengers, as most hate leaving! I caught up to Peter by where the pictographs are marked on the map, only we couldn’t find them.

We proceeded to LLC Campsite #1. Peter wasn’t impressed, but this short day wore me out, probably carryover from the previous day. I thought was the perfect site, and despite the mosquito’s that turned killer after dusk, I really enjoyed that campsite. A character builder it was, with a 15-meter climb and then a down to find the thunder box! On the way back to my hammock, I took a detour along the top ridge to the north end, which had a nice, elevated view of the lake, before backtracking.

We set up camp and ate before fishing. I caught a Pike and Walleye from camp and then decided to paddle around the island. It wasn’t as good as shore fishing from camp, but I paddled and fished around counterclockwise to the other side of the Island and Peter was fishing deeper water. Just as I paddled up, he was reeling in his lure when a fish struck just below the surface and fight on. I got most of it on video, but that was the largest Walleye I have seen in my life. Nothing compared to his 40" Pike on Jordan Lake, but good size for a walleye. After a few pictures, he released the Walleye without any measurement, but estimates it was between 25” to 29”. As we landed our canoes at camp, the Mosquitos said, “You best take cover or die!” We took cover! Unfortunately, my hammock experience was only on day three in the wilderness and the strap would not lock. I estimate I lost several liters of blood in a vain effort to fix the problem. Choosing life over comfort, I tied a knot in the strap and slept in an awkward position with one end almost on the ground. It may have been uncomfortable, but I survived the grouse on day two, and I survived the mosquitoes on day/night three. What would day four bring.