Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Iron sharpening Iron and the truth about walleye cheeks
by TuscaroraBorealis

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 08/18/2025
Entry & Exit Point: Little Vermilion Lake (Crane Lake) (EP 12)
Number of Days: 5
Group Size: 8
Day 4 of 5
Thursday, August 21, 2025

Really not outright gloomy this morning but, it is overcast, and the air feels heavy. Strangely, one moment its muggy, the next there’s a slight chill in the air. Zoe continues to exhibit a most intriguing sitting posture. After breakfast Aurora, Isaiah & myself hop in a 3-seat canoe hoping to explore the small chain of lakes just south of us between Iron & Stuart Lake. Meanwhile Naomi, having limbered up her paddling muscles yesterday splashing Father Brandon, feels she is ready to do some explorations with Zoe, so they grab the Black Pearl and head out in a different direction. Caroline, Fitz & Father Brandon stay back, and I can't help but quip to Caroline as we paddle away; "Enjoy your bonding time with Father Brandon!"

Our first portage is a short paddle SW down a narrow arm of Iron Lake. A narrow-slanted granite slope serves as the landing to Dark Lake. The trail is slightly overgrown but easily followed. There is an elongated section of a granite knob near the middle of the trail that makes it seem like we are walking on a sidewalk. Another narrow landing greets us on the other end but, it’s flatter and weedier.

The lone campsite on Dark beckons but, is nearly impossible to discern its location from out on the lake. If a person didn't know it was there, I don’t think anyone would ever just stumble across it. Aurora spies a faint trail leading up the hillside where it supposed to be, so we pull in. Her & Isaiah soon verify that it is, in fact, the campsite – just extremely overgrown.

Aurora is surprised to hear me say, “it’s not close to the worst site I’ve ever seen.” In its current state it's hard to evaluate but, it is elevated providing a decent overlook of the lake, there are a couple of very overgrown tent pads, although tarp options would be a struggle. Not a horrible option for a solo paddler (or two) looking for solitude.

Our next portage ends up being a little shorter version of the previous. Basically, a slightly overgrown up and over. While I haven’t seen Fox Lake yet, upon beholding the charming countenance of Rush Lake, I strongly suspect it’s the gem of these 3 lakes between Stuart & Iron. We even have the resident loon escort us for a while as we paddle around the lake. Eventually we pull into the island campsite – which is the only site on the lake.

It doesn’t sport the greatest landing, but it is serviceable. The site is elevated with an excellent view of this enchanting lake. While the fire grate itself is par-excellance, the ground just behind it is severely sloped and there is no log seating. There are a couple of decent tent pads but black spruce seems to be the dominant tree around camp so tarp & hammock options will need an extra measure of creativity. While I believe a larger group would struggle here, I think a small group would find this site quite acceptable.

Afterwards, we paddle over to the portage landing for the trail that leads to Fox Lake. My young apprentices seem to have run out of steam as they don’t feel like traversing this one, so they stay back as I go it alone leaving the canoe & gear with them.

Much the same as the previous 2 portages, although this one seems to be the steepest – but not severely so. It doesn’t sport the most expansive/convenient landing of the 3 on the Fox end. I bushwhack over to the camp site and find another marginal, overgrown site that is situated on an elevated rock shelf that doesn’t seem to provide much in the way of useable ground for tent stakes. The tight narrow landing and lack of useful trees add to my low estimation of this site.

Returning to the Rush Lake landing, I’m delighted to find that in my absence Aurora & Isaiah have caught a few fish right from shore. Just some small hammer-handles but it kept them occupied. They pull up some bass once we’re out on the lake as we make our way back to camp.

After paddling our way back to camp, Father Brandon greets us, and we give him a rundown of how things went. I see Zoe in camp but not Naomi or the Black Pearl, so I inquire about their whereabouts. Father says Zoe literally just got back to camp. She had walked from the west side of the island in an effort to scare Father who had been lounging in a hammock while Naomi loaded the front of the canoe with boulders so she could apparently continue her explorations.

Ominously, and on cue, the wind starts gusting to the point that it’s kicking up dust in camp. Concerned, I confess (pun intended) to Father that I wouldn’t want to be paddling out in these types of conditions, especially by myself and hope still ‘wet behind the ears’ Naomi isn’t floundering at sea. At this stage of the paddling season, I don’t think typically the water could get much warmer. So, her swamping likely wouldn’t be as serious as at other times of the year but, the wind is blowing in a NW direction which could/would push her out into the most expansive part of the lake.

Much like the Apostle John, (the kids) outran Peter (Father & I) to the west end of the island. They report that Naomi hadn’t swamped and made it behind the island after doing a series of ‘whirlybirds’ on the water. This helped set our mind at ease since she would now be able to use the island as a shield from the wind. Still, we wanted to see if she needed help so, we pressed on around the island. As we crested a high protruding point on the backside of the island, we could just make out Naomi rounding a rocky point at the extreme east end of the island.

Back in camp, Fitz grabbed a paddle and hiked back to the east end of the island where he initially startled Naomi before hopping in and quite literally rescuing our damsel in distress by paddling with her back to camp.

Of course, there are a myriad of spiritual lessons to be gleaned from this harrowing ordeal, and several are immediately brought forth as we all relive the events that led up to this point - once everyone is back in camp. Without taking up too more space in this report, I’ll give a plug to Father Brandon & Naomi’s weekly podcast (it should be linked at the end of this report) where they discuss Naomi’s tribulation starting at about the 8:00 minute mark.

The weather, which has been peculiar all day, continues to morph into a stormy rain shower before then clearing off and settling into a calm tranquil evening. So much so, that Aurora & Zoe take the opportunity to swim out to the scenic island out in front of camp. We enjoy our last growler of blueberry blonde before turning in this last night of our trip.