Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Our First Real BWCAW Trip
by TrailZen

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 08/29/2026
Entry & Exit Point: Moose Lake (EP 25)
Number of Days: 10
Group Size: 2
Trip Introduction:
We're Chuck & Tia Ramsey. We live in western North Carolina, and have been visiting Canoe Country since 1979. I must admit that I've had a rather elitist attraction to Quetico for many years. Back in March I pulled a Quetico permit entry for August 29 via Prairie Portage/Carp Lake. When the serious nature of wildfires in eastern Quetico was obvious, I altered the permit to PP/Sarah, and when it appeared that continued fire concerns might preclude a Quetico trip, I searched Rec.gov and found a BWCAW entry via Moose Lake for the same dates. When Quetico reopened shortly before our trip dates, Ontario decided that the park would only be accessed via northern entry for the remainder of the 2026 season; they canceled/refunded our Quetico permit. In the many years weve been visiting Canoe Country, I think weve spent fewer than 5 nights in the BWCAW, so our 2026 visit to Canoe Country is our first real BWCAW trip. I expected to see lots of people, tired campsites, etc. Wow, did I get an education! We drove into Ely Friday afternoon August 28th, and picked up our BWCAW permit at Spirit of the Wilderness. IN 45 years of Canoe Country trips we didn't even have BWCAW maps! We purchased National Geographic Boundary Waters East maps and got great info regarding some of the lakes we wanted to visit. In our hotel room we made a couple days' route plans and figured we'd study maps every evening as the trip progressed. Our pre-trip dinner was at The Boathouse; while our hoped-for walleye baskets were no longer on the menu, we found nice substitutes. We walked back to our room and were in bed early.
Part 1 of 11
Day one, Saturday, August 29, 2026. Moose L, Newfound L, Sucker L, Birch L, Carp L, Knife River, and Knife L. 6 portages, 13.4 miles (12.7 paddling, 0.7 portaging).

Day 1 started with breakfast at Britton’s, and we uncharacteristically managed not to over-order/over-eat. Walked back to the Canoe On Inn, checked out, and drove to our Moose Lake put-in. Our route was familiar to us from Moose Lake to Carp Lake, as we’d traveled that at the start of last year’s Quetico trip, but after that, almost everything was new to us. We were lucky enough to see several bald eagles, including a pair that posed for us in a tall pine.

It was suggested that we spend our first night on Birch Lake, but we had lunch there, and didn’t want to stop paddling so early in the day. We pressed on to Knife, and checked out the site (#2187) on the east end of Robbins Island. It was bigger than we needed, but it was around 3 pm when we got there, so we claimed it. No views, but nice and clean. At our lunch stop we had found a fancy clothes line; with camp set up, we soon had wet socks hanging on it. Dinner was a spaghetti experiment which we really liked, but will try to dial its weight down a bit. We really appreciate the USFS grills at each campsite; while we seldom have fires the grill surface works well with our cooking gear. Quetico sites frequently require that we move a flat rock or two to make a cooking area compatible with our setup. During last year's trip we discovered that the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL3 we bought used in 2018 had developed seam tape delamination and leaked during heavy rains, so we we were sporting a new tent this year, a Big Agnes Copper Spur UL3 HV.

After dinner we retired to the tent and reviewed the day's route and looked at options for Day 2. We were getting close to some of the summer’s fire damage, and don’t quite know where travel might be blocked, so looked at a couple route options. After developing a route for Day 2, we read a couple stories from Patrick McManus’ “Real Ponies Don’t Go Oink” and called it a night.

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